The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

ECMlink dialing in my tune

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

enriquez2000

Proven Member
2,269
807
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? didnt have any at 10psi but raised to 18 and havent double checked

2). Verified mechanical timing?yes

3). Verified base timing?yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: stock
Wire brand and Age: not sure
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: iridiums

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: yes
Throttle Cable: yes
TPS: yes
BISS:

7). Compression ratio

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring? no

9). Any DTC/CEL codes? no

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43
Injector Size (cc/min): 550

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: innovate mtxl
Calibration Date: 12/14/14

13). Type of fuel
Type: 93 octane
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? yes


I am just trying to get this running smooth.. went around the block with a couple boost pulls and while the boost gauge said 18, boostest has a max of 15(i am getting a map to log that better).. I fixed my lean boost issue I was having before, but I would love some help dialing in trims. It is a daily and I want it running solid

 

Attachments

  • log.2014.12.21-02.elg
    158.5 KB · Views: 101
First off, you are currently using both the timing and fuel sliders. I would suggest zeroing these out and using the Direct access tables to achieve the desired outcome. Using both the sliders and DA tables just makes for headaches.

To look at your combFT, ISC position and other values, we need a good idle log with the vehicle at operating temp. The current log only contains an idle section 13 seconds long and doesn’t seem to stabilize during that time. Post another log.
 
Eff me... i didnt even realize.. i never touched the sliders.. must be previous owners stuff left behind... ill zero sliders out and push them to ecu. Ill log tomorrow again. I know its no where close to dialed in..
 
I redid the log on my way in to work.. one thing I did notice is that as sson as i hit WOT i get immediate knock. Anything you guys can suggest on this log for tuning woiuld be great. I am very new to ecmlink.
 

Attachments

  • log.2014.12.22-01.elg
    1 MB · Views: 92
Airflowperrev is at .19. You need to adjust your 0 and 50hz sliders to get that value to .25. Be sure to adjust your deadtime to keep CombinedFT in check.

CombinedFT look good averaging 1%.

Your ISCposition is reading 0? Have you deleted sensors from the throttle body?

Now that you have zeroed your sliders, you just added 5 degrees of timing across the board. You may want to start by loading the timing tables attached below to pull some of that out.

You also need to follow this wiki to get some of your airflow dialed in.
 

Attachments

  • EVO8-2003-mod1.eda
    6.5 KB · Views: 75
Its already captured.

Upon further inspection, your ISC does show a reading during cruise so its working. You need to adjust your BISS screw until your ISCposition reads 30.
 
.25 is the target goal for airflowperrev.

when i changed BISS my idle jumped drastically.. to keep it idling at 900 my iscposition reads 8 right now

You must allow some time for the ISC to adjust. Once it does, the idle should hover around your target rpm steadily. FYI this should be done at full operating temp.
 
ok so Biss at right around 30 and when fan somes on it jumps to 44... Normal? I think I have everything esle dialed in now too at idle... although rc550 is supposed to be 180 dead time and im up to 270 to get my combined ft to jive.. idle log attached
 

Attachments

  • log.2014.12.22-01.elg
    41.2 KB · Views: 79
Your targeting 900rpm and your average before the fans kick on is 908. Thats good and should feel like a smooth idle.

CombinedFT are great averaging only .6%

ISC is close at 32. The jump after electrical load is what the ISC is intended to do and is normal.

You may give the airflow sliders another pass to increase the airflowperrev to .25. Don’t forget to adjust your deadtime to keep fuel trims in check.

Don’t worry about the deadtime settings. They are used to adjust fuel at idle which we have used them for.

Now after you fix airflowperrev and get your combinedFT in line, you need to follow the instructions in this link and run the tool.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft
 
Last edited:
Airflowperrev is off .01. Its not off by a lot and may not even be noticed but why not click a few sliders to correct it?

CombinedFT look great but once you touch the airflow sliders combFT will need adjusting.
 
Ahhhh.. perfection.. will do.. im also changing my openloopmaxoctane higher end to 10.8 target afr to accomodate 91 octane gas. Have to try and get the knock out of the higher boost over 16psi and dont want to take timing out of the eco8mod map
 
First, you need to insure that your actual AFR is lining up with your commanded AFR. In your last log, these differed quite a bit. This is why I told you to use the Mafcombft tool. This will dial in your MAF between idle and WOT. Once your midrange is acting accordingly, then you can do a pull and adjust those sliders to get AFR’s to match.

Only after this is done will you be able to input an AFR into the DA table and expect to see it.

If the car is still knocking when you are trying to dial in the MAF, pull some timing until you get it dialed in. It makes for a more pleasant experience and its only a click away to add it back in after everything is dialed in.
 
Alright.. ill drive it in to work in the morning and run the tool again (i did do it before but things are changed).
 
I posted my drive to use mafcomp tool and after the drive my idle changed the grams per rev(i had just dialed in .25 before the run.. im guessing its as close as i am getting.

Next I logged my whole drive to work after mafcomp adjustment.. i did 2 pulls around 600-750seconds in so you could see knock now.. its way better but still there. at the end of the run my airflowper rev was off again.
 

Attachments

  • maftoolrun.elg
    460.9 KB · Views: 78
  • ridetoworktune12-23-14.elg
    1 MB · Views: 86
Glad to hear that. I am currently traveling for the holidays but i will take a look once I get a chance.
 
Looking at the ewot2 log:

It looks like your MAF comp still needs quite a bit of work through the whole range. From 5k on, the car is running almost a whole point richer that the AFRatioEst thinks it should be. Below that it's hard to tell since there is so much variation. You want the LC1WB and AFRatioEst to line up almost exactly throughout the entire pull.

I think it would be easier to start from scratch than try to make adjustments from your current MAF comp table. Reason being, I've found when you have large variations between data points on the MAF comp table, it skews the WBFactor readings, and makes it hard to apply accurate adjustments to the MAF comp table. My recommendation would be to start at the 600hz range, and set all the cells above it to 10.2%. After you do that, do a couple clean 3rd gear pulls and post up the logs. I would be comfortable making adjustments to your MAF comp table based on those pulls.

If you want, just copy the MAF comp table you currently have into a word document or something, that way you can always revert back if you'd like.

In regard to the places you're seeing knock; in your ridetoworktune12-23-14 log, your AFRs are around 11.7 whereas in your ewot2 log, your at a fairly rich 9.9. AFR. That would probably explain why you are getting significantly more knock in one log and not the other. Until you accurately dial in your MAF, it's hard to make accurate suggestions about pulling timing and modifying AFRs to combat knock.
 
This WOT tuning is getting difficult LOL... I have knock completely gone through all gears at least at this point which was a huge concern.. I was getting knock as soon as i WOT. Trying to log 3rd gear pulls in an auto sucks... I basically have to drive hit f11 and stomp on it. I can see why guys get paid good money to dial in cars. The other hard part is just when it seems like a certain frequency in matching up, the next pull it wont. Ill keep working on it. I know its not as quick as it is capable of being but it is in a safe position right now.
 
Dialing in the MAF is probably the most difficult part. Honestly, I think if you start from a good baseline (10.2% or something similar) and then do a few pulls, it would make it easier to adjust. Alternatively, you can just adjust your sliders according to the WBfactor at each MAF frequency through the entire log, and see where that leaves you. I was having issues just like you though, and found that starting over worked better than anything else. How you want to approach it personally is up to you, but you'll definitely need to fix it eventually if you want to improve the tune.
 
Dialing in the MAF is probably the most difficult part. Honestly, I think if you start from a good baseline (10.2% or something similar) and then do a few pulls, it would make it easier to adjust. Alternatively, you can just adjust your sliders according to the WBfactor at each MAF frequency through the entire log, and see where that leaves you. I was having issues just like you though, and found that starting over worked better than anything else. How you want to approach it personally is up to you, but you'll definitely need to fix it eventually if you want to improve the tune.
Adjusting by wb factor was how i got rid of knock. But i see some is still off.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top