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Need an o2 sensor, can I get a WB now?

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darknezz7

darknezz7

Proven Member
571
80
Mar 30, 2014
Eugene, Oregon
Can I use the bosch 17018 WB sensor to replace the stock front one now without any tuning?

Will it act like a stock sensor basically?

Ours seems to be bad and I'd rather just get the WB now and install a gauge later.

This thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ho...-2g-turbo-in-place-of-stock-o2-sensor.432222/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ho...-2g-turbo-in-place-of-stock-o2-sensor.432222/
Talks about the gauge as being a controller, but its just reads off the o2 wire to the ecu so I don't think it affects it?

Thanks
 
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Why would you not just spring for the wideband kit. Would you not also want to know what your actual AFR is via gauge? You will need a kit that supports narrowband simulation. You are not just going to be able to slap a wideband sensor on there and call it good. You will be better served just getting a replacement OE sensor until you can afford the wideband kit.
 
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^^exactly, its not my car though.

So yeah that answers my question though that the gauge is a controller to send the right 0-1v nb signal to the ecu

hmm, $156 isnt bad for the whole aem kit. might just convince to get it.

The car runs, ok, it has a missfire though, code for o2 sensor.
 
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^^ like said above narrowBand support!
No you can't just use the wideband sensor with no contrôller or tune. You need a wideband like the mtx-l that can simulate the narrowband signal for you. So the ecu sees what it needs to keep your a/f right. Then thru the gauge you are able to see the wideband signal (your a/f).
 
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It will also show volts, and a multitude of other information as you can daisy-chain kits and only need one gauge. You can toggle between what you want to read.
 
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The only complaint I have for mine would be to have the gauge dimmable. I have my dash lights as low as they will go at night, and the plx gauge seems really bright in comparison.
 
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Love my LC-2. It doesn't have multiple readouts but sure works like a champ. Just MTC.
 
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Got it installed, is it suppose to say "no sensor detected" on the dm-6 gauge when the car is not started? It doesn't let me push anything to change the display either.
just shows a graph line ver 2.0, the outer ring lights, gies black for a bit then sits at the no sensor detected.

I've triple checked everything, its getting voltage at the sensor harness, its running on its own power source 5a fuse with a relay to a ignition wire.
 
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Was the car on accessory or on but not started?

Have you tried firing up the car to see if everything works as it should?

Since the dm-6 can read many sensors, did you set up the unit to set the sensor type to afr?
 
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It seems like you put a WB sensor into the front O2 sensor under the turbo. That should not be done. The front 02 greatly impacts the cars tuning system.

It's possible someone could put the wb sensor in the rear 02 but good luck passing emissions.
 
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J'sDSM2 said:
It seems like you put a WB sensor into the front O2 sensor under the turbo. That should not be done. The front 02 greatly impacts the cars tuning system.

It's possible someone could put the wb sensor in the rear 02 but good luck passing emissions.
Click to expand...

This is common practice. This unit has narrow band simulation for this reason. DSM LINK also has a narrow band simulation feature as well. The ecu is only using the o2 sensor during closed loop operation. I rather like to see that the ecu is cycling to achieve a 14.7 afr. The benefit of having the wideband in the o2 housing location is the reaction time and there is fewer chances of an exhaust leak. Downstream has more chances of a leak to throw off the sensor. People that choose to keep the upstream stock have the benefit of having another source to ensure the wideband is functioning correctly. The best way if one is worried about all the emission s nonsense is to weld an additional bung to install the wideband.

What do you mean by "greatly impacts the cars tuning?"
Also, what specifically are the reasons why this "should not be done?"
 
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2gmitsueclipse said:
Since the dm-6 can read many sensors, did you set up the unit to set the sensor type to afr?
Click to expand...

This is probably the problem, as unless its just a DOA 02 sensor, I dont know what it could be.
I didn't see anything about it in the manual.

I did not start the car because the coolant crossover pipe cracked so its removed til tomorrow. Key on running pos.

yea its in the stock o2 housing under the turbo, only downside I have read is the sensor life will be shorter. Plan on moving it right before the flex when we get a new down pipe as its cracked at the flex part.

I have the nb 0-1v signal from the plx unit to the upsteam o2 wire on the ecu to simulate.

No emissions here, its a full straight pipe apexi anyway.
 
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You won't be able to do much until you can start the car or at least the "on" position but not running. The o2 sensor will be fine where you have placed it. It will still last quite some time.
 
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the key IS ON, in run, pos 3, as in Lock-AC-Run

I just check and pushed the left and right spots on the gauge and it does nothing, just sits and no sensor detected, I should be able to go to the menu?
 
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I can check mine tomorrow sometime...you should be able to access the menu if it powers on. You could try disconnecting the connectors to the sensor, to the red module, and to the gauge and reconnect thm to see if it was just a connection issue.
 
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I already tried reconnecting all the plugs several times. the one at the sensor is very tight, it first it was not clicked together so I figured that was the issue, nope. Like I said there is voltage at the sensor plug in the bay.

It might be a defective gauge? I'd be pretty bummed.
 
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2gmitsueclipse said:
What do you mean by "greatly impacts the cars tuning?"
Also, what specifically are the reasons why this "should not be done?"
Click to expand...

My understanding is that the front o2 is the one used by the car in closed loop when the rear one is not. The rear one is for catalytic converter status and the front one sits too close to the heat of the exhaust manifold. Here is the instructions from AEM themselves. They say 36" for turbo charged cars. Go to page 8.

The best way is to weld a bung for the wb on your down pipe by far.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf
 
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J'sDSM2 said:
My understanding is that the front o2 is the one used by the car in closed loop when the rear one is not. The rear one is for catalytic converter status and the front one sits too close to the heat of the exhaust manifold. Here is the instructions from AEM themselves. They say 36" for turbo charged cars. Go to page 8.

The best way is to weld a bung for the wb on your down pipe by far.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf
Click to expand...

You are correct on both statements. The o2 sensor is used during closed loop operation. This is why narrow band simulation used. The PLX device as well as DSMLink support this feature so it can operate as a narrowband or stock sensor does. The narrowband uses a 0-1v source while a wideband in our case uses a 0-5v source. Narrowband simulation convert the 0-5v signal to a 0-1v signal needed by the ecu. I will agree that using an additional bung for the wideband is the "suggested" method, which I have already mentioned. I have chosen the o2 location for ease of installation, less wiring, and having more space to tap in external sensors to be logged. While understand that some will say that o2 sensor life is shortened to a degree, I do not mind replacing it as needed. The PLX model of discussion also has a diagnostic feature which tests the o2 sensors reaction time.

I can report that I am running this setup just over 6 months without issue. This includes multiple track days and at least one competitive event per month.
 
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Does pressing both left and right buttons at the same time allow access to the menu?
 
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