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Replaced transmission, clutch now dragging.

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jerrylarsen

Proven Member
147
5
Nov 23, 2014
arvada, Colorado
So my transmission exploded, so I replaced it, and the clutch, (tob, pressure plate, friction disk replaced the flywheel) and new cv axles. Now I have no pressure in the clutch petal until I'm at the very bottom maybe inch of petal. And most of the time the clutch doesn't disengage fully so it dragging and you can put it into gear if your not moving.. So any ideas what I could do? Also it sometimes pulls itself out of gear when under load (it's a 4g63 fwd)
 
The clutch didn't disengage great before but it's worse now, looking at the space cylinder it appears to be pushing as far as it can, but it doesn't seem to be returning entirely
 
I feel like changing the master and slave cylinder will help if I'm wrong about it going far enough
 
I mean slightly because I pulled it to change the throw out bearing but I don't think it was bad in any way
 
I'm sorry, I don't understand the question paul.
 
Not as of yet but I will in the morning
 
I would read the thread posted above about how to properly adjust the clutch pedal and bleed the slave cylinder. Very cheap and easy thing to do.
 
Flywheel step height is crucial to clutch engagement. Also, each brand of clutch can sometimes have a different step height spec that they need from the flywheel for their clutch products to fully work as designed. The link above to TRE for proper adjustment is crucial for you.

If you get everything bled properly and adjusted per the link above and still have the same issues, then we will need more details from you on what you did with what brand parts.
 
Well I bled and adjusted it to no avail, it's a stock flywheel and just a stock clutch I'm not sure what the brand was, I was strapped for cash so I got the advanced auto parts clutch that was like $106 looks like the same dimensions as my old centerforce stage 2 clutch though
 
Ok so when you press the clutch, its goes down to almost the floor before it starts to disengage the clutch correct?

I had the same issue with a 2g talon about 2 years ago. It resulted in the trans in and out of the car 3 times in 1 day. ANyways, we ended up shimming the pivot ball. The car would start in nuetral with no issue but when I pushed the clutch to go in gear, It wouldn't happen.

You can buy a new one and not half ass it like I did, I needed the car same day as it was my only vehicle.

The best way to check this would require 2 people. Have 1 person push on the clutch and the other watch the clutch fork. In my case, the clutch fork was hitting the housing before it would disengage.
 
Well I bled and adjusted it to no avail, it's a stock flywheel and just a stock clutch I'm not sure what the brand was, I was strapped for cash so I got the advanced auto parts clutch that was like $106 looks like the same dimensions as my old centerforce stage 2 clutch though
go inside the car and disconnect the master cylinder and screw the good of the master cylinder counter clockwise until you are almost at the end and hook it back up this should should solve your problem.
 
Clutch still catches super low, but it's better now, maybe half an inch is completely in and completely out, my mustang with a star 4 racing clutch has more play
 
Clutch still catches super low, but it's better now, maybe half an inch is completely in and completely out, my mustang with a star 4 racing clutch has more play
okay that's good to hear. You can try one more thing if you can find a small nut put it in the slave cylinder as this will extend the rod a little as this may give you exactly what you need.
 
Yeah I don't plan on band aids.... Yet LOL
 
If the band aid fixes your problem, you will know what direction to go in for the correct fix ;) atleast your making progress. One step at a time.
 
Any lengthening of the slave rod is a bandaid and not a proper solution.
Please explain how lengthening the rod is a band aid sir I am all ears:confused:. Evidently no one else can offer any better solution:toobad: I have solved many of clutch issues with a longer slave cylinder rod. It boils down to this truth, either he's going to use a longer slave cylinder rod or pull the transmission and shim the shift fork all other fixes has fail in his process of elimination thus far and by the way FYI both methods has been long accepted as a proper fixes in the dsm community for years:beatentodeath:
 
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Yeah I don't plan on band aids.... Yet LOL
Its not a baid aid:idontknow:. You replaced some component in your transmission that doesn't exactly match what you pulled out and a lot of times this is due to normal wear and tear. You are going to frustrate the heck out yourself with modding these dsm if you think that some issues can be fixed by normal tech standards and most who do, don't last long in this dsm performance game! I am always fascinated and tickled to death at the number of "parting my complete setup" listings in the classified section of this forum that is where frustration leads everytime.

I have news a flash for you most everything you do modding your dsm will be an out of the box fix and as stated above a fix is a fix;)Oh I forgot to mention that I have ran an extended slave cylinder rod for years:thumb: adding the nut just lets you know that you will need one granted if your issue isn't more serious . Here is a link so you can get that car up and running http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/250795986232 Pay special attention to how many of these extended slave cylinder rods has been sold by this guy giving evidence of just how common a fix this method isROFL!
 
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