The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Rix Racing

4G63 in 1974 VW BEETLE!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wouldn't be an issue if it was air-cooled. If I were Oprah, we'd all have free air-cooled 911's, on me! good luck with the frozen block...[DOUBLEPOST=1417660947][/DOUBLEPOST]If I were Oprah... Free air-cooled 911's for everyone on this thread! then no frozen blocks. Too bad I ain't oprah.[DOUBLEPOST=1417660989][/DOUBLEPOST]new site is messing with my head
 
Last edited:
Popped the core plug in got it all thawed out and its leaking between the engine and trans. Coming from top of bellhousing, hoping its headgasket. Otherwise engine has to come out to see if the core plug popped out behind flywheel. No worries easy. :toobad:
 
Badass swap. I'm actually looking into swapping a a 4g63 into a bug so I'm glad I found your thread. Forgive me if you already answered this question and I missed it but are you using the Kennedy Engineering adapter plate and flywheel kit? Was there any wait time for it or did you get it quickly?
 
Badass swap. I'm actually looking into swapping a a 4g63 into a bug so I'm glad I found your thread. Forgive me if you already answered this question and I missed it but are you using the Kennedy Engineering adapter plate and flywheel kit? Was there any wait time for it or did you get it quickly?
Sorry for not responding, if I remeber correctly it was 3 weeks to a month they had to make it. It is a Kennedy adapter
 
Sorry for not responding, if I remeber correctly it was 3 weeks to a month they had to make it. It is a Kennedy adapter

Okay cool thanks for the info. I've heard about Kennedy having a waiting period (they are pretty popular for their subaru adapters on the VW sites I frequent). I guess I better order early when I start the project and just work on the fuel system and whatnot while I wait for the adapter.
 
Started working on the project again, the freeze plugs popped out behind the flywheel and turbo! Everything is taken care of and now I am permenantly mounting everything and starting body work again.
 
Just curious, wouldn't it be easier to flip the turbo around and open up the other end of the intake so everything opens to the back? just seems like it'd be neater packaging that way.
 
Nice set-up! Awesome to see more 4g63's in vw's. I have a 4g63t w/16g mated to a stock 5-rib in my sandrail. I'm using a Zj jeep grand cherokee radiator as it seemed to fit the space better. Keep it up
 
Everything is mounted beside radiator and oil cooler ( I need to get it to the shop to weld brackets for it). Throttle cable is taken care of, I had a perfect opportunity to make a guide tube for the cable while the engine was out. I need to modify the pedal however because the stock pedal has a stopper on it, not allowing WOT. Almost done getting the engine back together and I will post a video of it running in about a weeks time. Thanks everyone :thumb:
 
I need help guys, no injector pulse from both of my computers. My resistor pack is good and I am getting 12v to the injectors. I am narrowing it down to the CAS or the ecus, does anyone wanna help me out and sell me a 1g CAS or ECU? I am running a 1991 CAS on a 1990 ECU and Im not sure if they are compatible, but I do have spark. I was reading that the ECU also interprets CAS for injector pulse. Thanks
 
I would open the ecu the 1g ecus are known for leaking capacitors and frying other circuits.
 
One of my ECUs has a burnt spot in the middle, and the other board looks clean but still no injector pulse. That is why I purchased this other ecu but sometimes that one acts weird too, what I mean by weird is the IAC will keep clicking and doing weird stuff and wont stop until I cycle the key again. Could I have 2 bad ECUs or is something else causing this?
 
One of my ECUs has a burnt spot in the middle, and the other board looks clean but still no injector pulse. That is why I purchased this other ecu but sometimes that one acts weird too, what I mean by weird is the IAC will keep clicking and doing weird stuff and wont stop until I cycle the key again. Could I have 2 bad ECUs or is something else causing this?
Anyone one bump? I am going to try a friends CAS to rule that out and check continuity for all the wires from the cas to the ecu, otherwise Im thinking it is the ecu.
 
I actually have it the opposite way around, 91-94 sensors and harness with a 90 ecu. Im going to try his cam sensor and see what happens. Otherwise ill probably looking into a another computer.
 
I got it running! Tried a friends ECU and it fired right up. Tomorrow ill run it longer and adjust TPS, ignition timing, bleed cooling system, make sure it doesnt run rich still and make sure it doesnt overheat. I could have 2 seperate issues with it running rich but getting it running is my first step. :pray:
 
The engine runs perfectly, will post videos soon. I do have a few questions about the idle but I think it has something to do with it straight piped and no resonator/muffler. It sounds kind of choppy sometimes, maybe it is normal for DSMs but that is why I am asking. I do have a code 42 though (Fuel Pump). No description of what sets this code so I need some input on what causes it to set. Again it has a walbro 190. Maybe something unplugged? Need info thanks.
 
The engine runs perfectly, will post videos soon. I do have a few questions about the idle but I think it has something to do with it straight piped and no resonator/muffler. It sounds kind of choppy sometimes, maybe it is normal for DSMs but that is why I am asking. I do have a code 42 though (Fuel Pump). No description of what sets this code so I need some input on what causes it to set. Again it has a walbro 190. Maybe something unplugged? Need info thanks.
Never mind, I have the diagnostic procedure in Shopkey.
 
I got it running! Tried a friends ECU and it fired right up. Tomorrow ill run it longer and adjust TPS, ignition timing, bleed cooling system, make sure it doesnt run rich still and make sure it doesnt overheat. I could have 2 seperate issues with it running rich but getting it running is my first step. :pray:

That would be my ecu..This kids been using my project talon as a parts car over the winter LOL. We will have to take some nice pictures and videos with the ole dslr once it get's driving.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Do you hear the stumbling on idle during the second video? Any ideas? I havent done a boost leak test yet, what is the easiest way? I have checked for vacuum leaks, adjusted timing, etc. Is it normal with no exhuast just straight pipe?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top