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2G No spark after 6 bolt swap

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95_gst_turbo

Proven Member
56
2
Nov 20, 2014
weidman, Michigan
Ok so I have lurked the forums and yet to find a solid answer.

Ok, so I bought the car with a rod bearing welded to the crank due to the previous owner running the car with 0 oil in it. It ran perfectly fine before this.

I recently did a 6 bolt swap(bottom end) and I am running a 2g head.

Once I get everything buttoned up for the first start, I have NO spark.

The 6 bolt has the balance shaft delete and I noticed there is no wiring or plug coming out above the oil pump.

On the 7 bolt, there was the wiring and it was plugged into the wiring harness.

Could this be my culprit?

When I get home I will check the coil pack to start with. But there is no spark on any cylinder which makes me believe the problem could be else where.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thank you
 
That is the crank angle sensor. It is needed for your ecu. Kiggly makes a trigger plate to allow you to use the one from your 7 bolt. Other modification is needed though.

Here is the kit:

http://kiggly-racing.com/all/6-bolt-crank-trigger-sensor.html


You could also look into using a 1g CAS as it doubles as the crank angle sensor as well.

Look up RRE for this information.
 
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Yes, with a 1g block and 2g head you must then use a 1g cam sensor on the 2g head (or Kiggly fix) because the 2g cam sensor doesn't have the additional signal that the 2g crank sensor provides. The 1g cam sensor however has both signals. So you make/buy a special wire harness to connect the 1g cam sensor to both the 2g crank harness connector and 2g cam harness connector:
For a 95-96 ECU: RRE Instructions.
For a 97-99 ECU: RRE Instructions.

Here is another resource for you to review:

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf
 
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We have fuel, that not a issue.

Now the one for the 6 bolt is still connected, it just appears that the wires have been snipped. Can I just rewire the one that's on the current motor and connect it where it belongs?

Thanks for all the help, much apprecaited[DOUBLEPOST=1417235444][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm also running the 2g Cam angle sensor so I didn't have to do anything to the wiring harness.

I noticed I forgot to mention this earlier.
 
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Now the one for the 6 bolt is still connected, it just appears that the wires have been snipped. Can I just rewire the one that's on the current motor and connect it where it belongs?

Read the links I have provided and your questions will be answered.
 
looks like wiring on a 1g Cas would be my best bet for time and money.
That is certainly the best option. I ran the kiggly trigger for a while but decided to switch back to the 1G cam sensor after having issues with the 2g cam position sensor on the head dying, after going through 2 autozone and 1 oem sensor I gave up. I can't tell any difference.
 
Ok so I picked up a 1g cas and i have it wired up.

Last night I went to start it and it gave hell. It finally started and ran like crap. After a few more cranks it would continue to start up better but never stay running and it was unresponsive to the gas pedal.

I read up on it a bit and I installed the cas 180* off.

I swapped it to how it should be and it wouldn't start. Checked fuel, fulled the line of and cranked and fuel shot out from the rail but no the hose.

I swapped it back to 180* off and it still wouldn't start back up.

I checked for spark again and now I don't have any ?

I'm lost, does anyone have any input or suggestions?

Thanks, anything will be appreciated![DOUBLEPOST=1417537507][/DOUBLEPOST]I also noticed it said pull the ecu fuse. I didn't do that, could that be part of my problem?
 
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The car should still start with the OEM sensor 180deg out, it will just run a little rougher. If it starts at all, you must have spark. If you're getting no fuel on the fuel return line from the regulator, it is a low pressure condition and a dying fuel pump or severe lack of voltage to it.

If you want to go the route of using my sensor, it would not be a good idea to try until it is running on the OEM sensor. No need to add other variables when you have a parts combo that should start and there is another lingering problem somewhere.
 
I finally got it to fire up!

When I wired in the harness for final fitment, I mixed the ground and the 12v up.

Now I'm chasing a oil leak from the drain tube from the turbo and a very high idle.

I also noticed my timing belt doesn't stay centered. When it's running I can actually watch it move side to side a bit. I'll dig into this and try to figure out why. Something might be loose on the timing belts messed up.[DOUBLEPOST=1417583875][/DOUBLEPOST]I finally got it to fire up!

When I wired in the harness for final fitment, I mixed the ground and the 12v up.

Now I'm chasing a oil leak from the drain tube from the turbo and a very high idle.

I also noticed my timing belt doesn't stay centered. When it's running I can actually watch it move side to side a bit. I'll dig into this and try to figure out why. Something might be loose on the timing belts messed up.
 
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