4g63 rebuild question

Insane20 · Nov 7, 2014

Ok I have a 95 talon that is 6 bolt swapped. Motor has 130k with no issues but id like to do a rebuild this winter to freshen things up. I plan on putting in new gaskets, seals, bearings, rings and arp heads mains and rod bolts.

My question is, since the motor has no issues can I just take it apart and put the new parts in without machining the rods and crank? I already plan on honing the cylinders and getting the head decked. Any input would be appreciated!

donniekak · Nov 7, 2014

You should at least have the crank polished, and the rods resized.

darknezz7 · Nov 7, 2014

All that work why not some aftermarket rods? Then have the whole thing balanced.

Def on the crank polish, I would def do a valve grind too. The parts car we got only "said" 130k too but the shop said the valves were toast, so we went OS for about the same cost.

Eddie Tsi · Nov 7, 2014

Insane20 said:
Ok I have a 95 talon that is 6 bolt swapped. Motor has 130k with no issues but id like to do a rebuild this winter to freshen things up. I plan on putting in new gaskets, seals, bearings, rings and arp heads mains and rod bolts.

My question is, since the motor has no issues can I just take it apart and put the new parts in without machining the rods and crank? I already plan on honing the cylinders and getting the head decked. Any input would be appreciated!

You won't know what you can or can not do until you open it up. Check/measure everything once it apart and build it accordingly.

mercaholik · Nov 8, 2014

^^^ Exactly couple of things I will mention first start saving (if you haven't already) but it's probably gonna cost more than you originally thought. Second have EVERYTHING measured, cylinder taper, out of round, crank run out, o.o.r etc. After you know your measurements, you can order the correct size bearings. You should order new .20 over pistons with quality rings and have each bore sized for each piston. The type of rods/pistons you do will depend on your expected use, power level and finances. And if it's a daily or track car.

xlevanx · Nov 8, 2014

Why should he bore .020 over if he doesn't have to? Like someone mentioned you won't know until you take it apart but a simple honing will be fine. The gains of going .020 over are minimal not to mention it's gonna be more money and nothing wrong with a stock rebuild if he doesn't plan on going 500hp plus.

RamenPride · Nov 8, 2014

Insane20 said:
Ok I have a 95 talon that is 6 bolt swapped. Motor has 130k with no issues but id like to do a rebuild this winter to freshen things up. I plan on putting in new gaskets, seals, bearings, rings and arp heads mains and rod bolts.

My question is, since the motor has no issues can I just take it apart and put the new parts in without machining the rods and crank? I already plan on honing the cylinders and getting the head decked. Any input would be appreciated!

You're going to need to have the block line honed and the rods re-sized with the ARP main and rod bolts. You may be planning on just a cylinder hone before you get started, but the block may need to be bored if the cylinder bores are out of round. This, obviously, would mean more than just new rings and you'll need new oversized pistons and have them installed. The crank should be fine with a micro polish unless it's out of spec. At that point, you can have it cut and get oversized bearings (but that removes the nitride coating and there are mixed results on doing this) or get a new crank.

So, basically, you won't know exactly what you will or will not need until it's apart like everyone else said

Insane20 · Nov 8, 2014

Thanks for the knowledge guys! I really have to rethink what im going to do.

mercaholik · Nov 8, 2014

The reason I said to go .20 over had to do with making sure all the cylinders are as round as possible and has nothing to do with gaining displacement. If you bore it to have the exact ptw clearance you need for your particular piston material and expected power, you will have a more reliable and more powerful engine. Blueprinting is one of the best ways to make good power and have it hold up for a while. My machinist said he can just hone my cylinders, but thinks it would be a good idea to get new piston and rings due to their condition and my plans. It's true you won't know any of this till it's all been inspected but knowledge is power. In the same respect you have no idea if a simple hone is sufficient. Blow by is a beach LOL

.

djc1827 · Nov 16, 2014

Ya do it right or it will come back to haunt you the next time

keltalon · Nov 16, 2014

Yeah you can do as you stated. As mentioned above have the rods resized and the crank polished at the least. I would recommend one additional step let a machine shop check the out of round bore tolerance of the cylinder to see if its within spec. this way you will know if you can just get away with just a hone job or if you need to get the block bored for straightness!

Lazy · Nov 16, 2014

While everything is apart you may also want to think about what you are going to do with or about the oil pump. Oem should add a couple hundred to the budget, You may also want to research porting it depending on what you want as far as oil pressure.

djc1827 · Nov 16, 2014

New oil pump and timing belt is a must....gasket set etc

GST with PSI · Nov 16, 2014

The real question is, why are you going to rebuild it in the first place? I'm all for maintenance and whatnot, but what ever happened to; if it ain't broke, don't fix it? The stock bottom end is good for 400hp easy, so I'd say mod away until you blow the b|tch up. If there's no reason to tear into the car, don't.

If you really want to rebuild a motor, I would get another long block, and build it on the side while you still have a running vehicle. You can find parts here and there on Craigslist and such dirt cheap. Since you plan on doing machine work anyways, there's no reason to be picky about getting a used old block out of someone's garage. Wait for good deals, stack parts slowly, build as budget allows AND have a running car to drive in the process. All the while, you can take your time and learn without rushing things together. Win win in my book...

keltalon · Nov 16, 2014

GST with PSI said:
The real question is, why are you going to rebuild it in the first place? I'm all for maintenance and whatnot, but what ever happened to; if it ain't broke, don't fix it? The stock bottom end is good for 400hp easy, so I'd say mod away until you blow the b|tch up. If there's no reason to tear into the car, don't.

If you really want to rebuild a motor, I would get another long block, and build it on the side while you still have a running vehicle. You can find parts here and there on Craigslist and such dirt cheap. Since you plan on doing machine work anyways, there's no reason to be picky about getting a used old block out of someone's garage. Wait for good deals, stack parts slowly, build as budget allows AND have a running car to drive in the process. All the while, you can take your time and learn without rushing things together. Win win in my book...

Here my friend is the real daredevil approach to dsm performance!

Insane20 · Nov 16, 2014

Compression test wasnt the best, so I know I need rings and valve seals. Im getting everything from stm and sending the head block crank and rods to a local machine shop to get machined.

GST with PSI · Nov 16, 2014

Define wasn't the best? Post up the results of the test, and also your procedure.

You began this thread by saying the motor had 130k with no issues, not 130k with questionable compression. There's a big difference there.

Insane20 · Nov 16, 2014

Dude I asked a question and got my answer and said thanks. Thread resolved move on.

GST with PSI · Nov 16, 2014

Whatever you say, dude. You come out with half the facts, and you'll get half the answers you need. Good luck with your build.

1g-4g63t · Nov 16, 2014

@GST with PSI had some of the best advice for you, and a fair point ..

Insane20 · Nov 26, 2014

Gst with psi, im sorry I didnt mean to come off rude. When I started this thread I had no idea my compression was so low otherwise I would have posted it in my original post.

Anyways I got the motor apart and everything looked fine except my #1 oil squirter is broken. The 90 degree elbow broke off and was laying in my oil pan. anyone have any idea what would cause this to happen?

xlevanx · Nov 26, 2014

I see you posted a want to buy add for an oil squirter. You can buy a brand new one for ten bucks off jnz tuning. Just giving you a heads up.

Insane20 · Nov 26, 2014

Thanks man I appreciate that!

newtodsm97gst · Nov 26, 2014

if your re-building might as well do it the right way. it will cost you but at least you have a piece of mind knowing that everything is right.

GST with PSI · Nov 26, 2014

Does the car still have balance shafts? One time, I had a balance shaft bearing spin, which took out an oil squirter. Other than that, not sure how that could have happened. How's the squirter look?

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