UPDATE:

Car is covered in snow right now. It should all be melted by tomorrow or Friday. Looks like CAS is supposed to be here Saturday though, so hopefully that will bring good news.

Keep the updates rollin

UPDATE:

First, Happy Thanksgiving all. It started! I know I am getting a CAS Saturday but I couldn't wait. I found one local and got it. I am going to keep the one that gets here Saturday as a spare. It finally starts. It only runs for about 4 seconds though, idle kicks up a bit and it cuts off. Sound familiar to anybody? Let me know what some causes may be if anybody has heard of this symptom before.

That's great!!! If I have my maf unplugged that's what it does

Maes said:

That's great!!! If I have my maf unplugged that's what it does

Click to expand...

Maes, when I unplug my MAF, it runs for about 10 seconds. The tach goes to 1100 and the boost gauge goes to -7 and it shuts off.

So it runs longer with it unplugged? Weird

Maes said:

So it runs longer with it unplugged? Weird

Click to expand...

Yeah. Once the car starts, what is the power-up sequence? Which sensor would be making the idle kick up and then once the MPI clicks off, the car dies? My son said he hears the MPI click, idle jumps up and then it dies

Did you ever get all your boost leaks taken care of?

Maes said:

Did you ever get all your boost leaks taken care of?

Click to expand...

That was going to be tomorrow. I figured it would at least idle like crap without doing that.

True I would think so unless you have a huge massive leak somewhere

Rd this on another post "I had an ECU fry on me once,replaced the ecu and my relay was doing the same thing as yours......turn on the key,hear the relay click on,runs for a couple seconds,hear the relay click OFF,then the car would sputer and die.......I replaced the relay and the car ran fine.....somehow when the ECU caps went bad it took out the relay along with it..........so go pull a working relay out of a buddies car and give her a try there"

Think I should try another MPI?

Hard to say I guess you don't have anything to loose

Maes said:

Hard to say I guess you don't have anything to loose

Click to expand...

I'm going to try in a bit. Hopefully it is that simple. I'll let you know shortly[DOUBLEPOST=1417150633][/DOUBLEPOST]

gunner4usa said:

I'm going to try in a bit. Hopefully it is that simple. I'll let you know shortly

Click to expand...

Does the MPI case itself have to be grounded? I tried the other relay and no luck.[DOUBLEPOST=1417164668][/DOUBLEPOST]

gunner4usa said:

I'm going to try in a bit. Hopefully it is that simple. I'll let you know shortly[DOUBLEPOST=1417150633][/DOUBLEPOST]

Does the MPI case itself have to be grounded? I tried the other relay and no luck.

Click to expand...

I think the cas may be out 180. I'll try that tomorrow too.

So glad I bought the extra CAS last night. The one that was supposed to be delivered today, got caught up in the storm up north. Car idled on starter fluid today. Emptied tank out and put 4 gallons of 93 in it plus Lucas fuel treatment and a little bit of seafoam. Think it flooded out. Cleaning up one set of plugs tonight and trying again tomorrow. I will let everybody know what happens.[DOUBLEPOST=1417396565][/DOUBLEPOST]UPDATE:
Video on YouTube. Check out the link and I am listening for any good advice.

http://youtu.be/GjYWy4mnySY

Need to see what that cel is and get the idle up a bit

Check engine codes pulled with a LED bulb. 12 - MAF, 21 - Coolant Temp Sensor and 42 - Fuel Pump. All are retained in the memory. 21 and 42 were fixed already, I just have to reset ECU. I am 98% sure that 12 will come back and is the cause of my issues. I bought CRC MAF cleaner today because it was on these forums and DSMTalk also. After I got home, I read the can and it listed specific vehicles not to use on and Eclipse was one of them. What should I use then to attempt to clean the MAF?

[DOUBLEPOST=1417495222][/DOUBLEPOST]Oh, just got the following information on the car from my brother-in-law:

Motor

Ferrera 1mm oversized valves
2G pistons 8.5 to 1
Crower H beam rods
Cosmetic head gasket
ARP head gasket bolts
4 bolt rear (from GVR4)

Transmission

EVO 3 shift forks
GVR4 5th gear
Double Synchros[DOUBLEPOST=1417577975][/DOUBLEPOST]After being home, sick in bed all day, I had my son go out and reset ECU. Once he started it, it ran until Check Engine Light came back on. He pulled the codes and 42 - Airflow Sensor came right back. I have the option to buy a 2G MAF and do a conversion into my GSX. Before I do this, is there any way to attempt to fix the MAF in the car now? It spent about 5 years sitting. I bought a can of CRC MAF Sensor yesterday, but when I got home, I noticed the can listed several vehicles not to use the solution on and Eclipses, Talons and Lasers that are turboed was on the list. Can I use the CRC to attempt to clean it? I really can't spend any more money on the car because of the holidays, plus if there is a way to fix the one in the car temporarily, it will help me out a lot.

" it ran until Check Engine Light came back on. He pulled the codes and 42 - Airflow Sensor came right back." I feel so dumb. Code 42 is fuel pump fault. It originally pulled 12, 21 and 42. I spent all night fixing a bad ground for one of the sensors in the MAF, just to try again and realize I was fixing the wrong freakin code.[DOUBLEPOST=1417665608][/DOUBLEPOST]UPDATE:

After my last post, I did some more research. I already had to run one jumper wire for a connection that was not showing continuity. Now, after reading, I believe TR17 in the ECU might have also been acid damaged and is not allowing the ECU to see 12 volts on ECU pin 13. Is anybody familiar with the internals of the ECU. One post said, "connect the collector and emitter of TR17 together." If anybody is familiar with this, please send me some information. Once the check engine light comes on, the motor stalls. It does sound really good though for the short time that it runs. I know the pump is coming on and I have tried two different known good MPI relays.

Hmm, perhaps you could double check on whether that's something you can try with ECMTuning? Usually you can just find points on the board to jump the entire trace to reroute it. Similar to what you had already done before. I did a much larger version of that on my cluster, a previous owner wired an indigo cluster inverter to one of the gauge powers and burned the trace up.

bmxfelon420 said:

Hmm, perhaps you could double check on whether that's something you can try with ECMTuning? Usually you can just find points on the board to jump the entire trace to reroute it. Similar to what you had already done before. I did a much larger version of that on my cluster, a previous owner wired an indigo cluster inverter to one of the gauge powers and burned the trace up.

Click to expand...

I have looked everywhere online to try to find the actual ECU internal schematic so I can locate TR17. Do you know of any online?

i just want to put it out there because i can't put up a classified yet since i just signed up. long time reader. I HAVE AN ACTUAL WORKING 1995 eclipse gs NON TURBO manual ECU for sale. just got in an accident, and totaled my car. I've had the problem of having to get bogus ecu's but mine actually works. last time i went through 4 different vendors before i found one that worked plug and play. this particular ecu is super rare since it's non turbo. please pm if you're interested.

Henry Kim said:

i just want to put it out there because i can't put up a classified yet since i just signed up. long time reader. I HAVE AN ACTUAL WORKING 1995 eclipse gs NON TURBO manual ECU for sale. just got in an accident, and totaled my car. I've had the problem of having to get bogus ecu's but mine actually works. last time i went through 4 different vendors before i found one that worked plug and play. this particular ecu is super rare since it's non turbo. please pm if you're interested.

Click to expand...

I wish I could use it. My car is a 90 GSX AWD manual. Right now I have a 91 ECU in there for a FWD manual just to try to get it running. I am going to try a few things tonight and I will let you know. How much are you looking for and what is the actual MD part number?[DOUBLEPOST=1417745055][/DOUBLEPOST]UPDATE:

MPI is showing 12 volts on pin 2 for ECU pin 13. ECU is not detecting voltage and shutting fuel pump off right after it starts up. Supposed to have loaner ECU here tomorrow. Hope I have something better to post on here tomorrow.

UPDATE:

Checked Black/White wire Pin 2 at MPI and Pi 3 at ECU and no continuity. I believe there was a short in the wire. I ran a jumper and fired right up. Unfortunately, I think that bypassed some system. Car ran for about 20 minutes. It backfired once and shut off. With that jumper on, the pump runs whenever the key is on. From what have read it's not suppose to do that. Any advice?

Any progress? Im saving up for a 2g awd dsm. Good luck on your project!

Had the thing running good. Replaced exhaust and let sit for a week. Now, it just cranks and cranks. It backfired once and now still will not start. It's almost time to put it on a trailer and take it to my brother-in-law in GA

gunner4usa said:

I wish I could use it. My car is a 90 GSX AWD manual. Right now I have a 91 ECU in there for a FWD manual just to try to get it running. I am going to try a few things tonight and I will let you know. How much are you looking for and what is the actual MD part number?[DOUBLEPOST=1417745055][/DOUBLEPOST]UPDATE:

MPI is showing 12 volts on pin 2 for ECU pin 13. ECU is not detecting voltage and shutting fuel pump off right after it starts up. Supposed to have loaner ECU here tomorrow. Hope I have something better to post on here tomorrow.

Click to expand...

Just a head up man I did a good bit of research when I bought an ecu with link for my car turned out to be a 91 converted for a 90 so the pins were switched being mine is a 91 I would have had to switch back so in just getting new ecu... A lot of people at the only difference is the tach but after reading the wire dura grams a good bit what also is their in those pins is the mafs if those arnt switched I'm sure it could cause mafs issues not staying this being the problem but I know the tach isn't the onlydifference if you want I can sell you this ecu being I have no use for it a soon as it gets back to me because it's being sent out to tom at ECM running to have the ECM link chip remove and installed in a different ecu. This one I have is a 91-94 ecu with pins 6-14 switched internally by a professional who was chip driver at dsm chip they were good but not sure if they still do business or not but either way it's a EPROM ecu that works it wot have the EPROM chip but you won't need it for it to work the car will run and drive fine with out it.. Or u can have it for a spare or if you ever wanna go dsm link u have a good ecu to use, I can send pics of the internal mod if you like so you can see how it was done ha a special chip installed for the tach and wires soldered for pins 6-14 which like I said I read and they stated were mas and signal wires good luck either way