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4g64 or 4g63? advice

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str95tsi

Proven Member
251
31
Jun 19, 2014
Eugene/springfield, Oregon
Ok long story short, I've replaced the 4g63t 7bolt in my car 3 times over 4 years and I've dune it cuz of crank walk, in my 95 talon tsi awd. also never had a 6bolt 4g63t walk. And I have a rare 4g64 tall deck 6 bolt and was going to build it. But it looks like a lot may need modes. I planed on using the 7 bolt head and this may be a problem cuz my old head chewed up medal so cam holds are scratched. And my 6 bolt 4g64 crank got scratched by machine chop burning micro polish. I was also going to use 1g MANLEY turbo tuff I beam rods 156mm. Pistons not shore yet MANLEY or wiseco? 2g for pin. Looking to build 1000up capable bottom end and building head later but I'm on a budget $4k-$7.5k also I'll have to replace turbo cuz old one chewed up housing and shaft play is really bad I'm in need of good info this is a daily driven auto cross car, I do not race it much but it's a daily driven race car. Looking for power and reliability. I just need parts lists and to stay in budget so if I have to I'll keep using the 4g63t. Any advice would be great thank you all.
 
Ok long story short, I've replaced the 4g63t 7bolt in my car 3 times over a 4 years span. I've done this because the motors crank walked out of my 95 talon TSI AWD. I have never had a 4g63t walk. I have a rare 4g64 tall deck 6 bolt and was going to build it. But it looks like a lot may need mods. I planned on using the 7 bolt head, but this may be a problem because my old head chewed up metal, so cam holds are scratched. My 6 bolt 4g64 crank also got scratched by the machine shop when they were burning micro polish. I was also going to use 1g Manley turbo stuff I beam rods 156mm. I'm not sure what pistons yet, what's your opinion either Manley or Wiseco? Looking to build 1000+ capable bottom end and building head later but I'm on a budget of $4k-$7.5k. Ive also had to replace my turbo because the old one chewed up the housing because the shaft play was really bad. I'm in need of good info this is a daily driven auto cross car, I do not race it much but it's a daily driven race car. Looking for power and reliability. I just need a list of parts and to stay in my set budget so if I have to I'll keep using the 4g63t. Any advice would be great thank you all.


Fixed most of the errors for viewers. Honestly if your wanting a 1000hp motor you should be reading more. It sounds like you are reusing the same block to me on each motor.. is that correct?
 
On the 4g63t 7bolt yes same block . And it walked Thus is why I may build a 4g64 6 bolt since 4g63t 7bolt block may be no good. And I have a good 4g64 6bolt block for a hybrid motor
 
So how would I go about making a 4g64 6bolt fit in my 95 talon and what needs to be dune for it to work with turbo and 4g63t 7 bolt head? Any good links out there? I've just been a little confused.
 
i havent searched the link for you, but a g4cs (6 bolt 4g64) will have the same mods needed for a regular 6 bolt-in-2g swap, adding in that you need to block off some oil drain back holes in the block deck.

there are 4g64 pistons made for turbo apps, generally can be found in a rod/piston package (they are the same length as 4g63 rods, just the bore of the pistons is larger and the dish on the pistons is added).

pistons clicky.


picture of holes needing filled (being that its a g4cs and not a 7 bolt block, the holes MAY differ, but you get the idea)
*pic is courtesy of google: anglefire; ahm page.*
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Now to block the oil drains. What would be the best way to do this?
Also the rod length is 150mm if I remember right. But I was wondering would a 156mm rod be better for longevity and higher r.p.ms due to piston speed slowing down a bit? and would a 1g rod with a 2g piston be best because of 22mm pin. Of piston and 1g rods fit the 100mm crank. And also some one I know thought an evo piston would work... is that true/correct ?
 
do a g4cs its like a 4g64 but a 6 bolt 2.4l its much more durable too and the stock crank can hold a lot more power then stock 4g64 crank. the motor fits in perfectly the block is very very similar to the 4g63
 
Also who makes cranks for 100mm 6bolt 4g64 ? Oem or MANLEY would be my preference but MANLEY I can't seem to find and OEM are almost never perfect used from a junk yard. Also I was going to add oil squatters. Can I use the 4g63t oil squatters?
 
MANLEY piston i may use but is wiseco better? Also my block is a 6 bolt maybe it's a g4cs? Not sure maybe a little help? Here's the pictures above.
 

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it could be a early 6 bolt 4g64 but is very rare and as far as the crank eagle is the best manufacture to go with and they have 100mm 6bolt cranks and as far as pistons I have weisco forged 6 bolt stroker pistons for my 6 bolt 4g63 block but manley is also very good id say weisco and manley are about even just go with what ever u find the best price on. and as far as oil squirters I don't think u can use 4g63t ones and if u can use the ones off of the evo 8
 
Is the 4g64 6bolt as strong as a g4cs? And I was going to order a 100mm eagle crank but I've never used one. Some say they break more than the OEM . Is this true?
 
Also is it better to modify a 7bolt frunt case or use a 6 bolt frunt case? Also can I use my 2g oil filter housing or do I need a different one? Also my 95 talon is A.W.D. so will I need to make my own oil pan to clear the transfer case?
 
just about as strong g4cs is maybe a little stronger mostly the stock crank out of it and the eagle cranks are amazing the 6 bolt chromeoly 100mm crank they have is very very strong no u should need to make ur oil pan should have enough clearance and its better to use 6bolt but the oem g4cs crank is also very strong people say it holds up to 600whp u can pick an oem up at advance auto parts for 180 bucks its a reman but still very strong still hold up past 500whp which I can say on my front wheel drive car I would never want that much
 
you do not have to block off any oil drain holes on a g4cs, that's only for a 7 bolt 4g64. there is a wonderful thread about building one of these if you take the time to read it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/looking-for-4g64-g4cs-answers-look-here.100677/

Use the 6 bolt front case and oil pan. any idea what bore size your pistons are? if you're using stroker pistons they'll need to be at minimum .60 over (86.5mm) for the stock bore of the 2.4. The timing belt is where you have to decide if you want to use a gates timing belt from a 95 galant with the dohc, or modify the tensioner. pb blaster would have helped when storing that block.

I have this motor in my car so you can feel free to message me if you'd like.
 
:aha:Ok so this is what ive decided to do for now 4g63t 2.0L 7 bolt split thrust block..... :idontknow:But now what turbo?

:hellyeah:Heres what force engineering is working on::hellyeah:

Bake and Blast engine block Clean all parts for assembly
Wiseco HD 2 7-bolt 8.5:1
Oliver Billet steel 150mm rods
7-bolt H Rod Bearing
7-bolt H Main bearing set
Bore & Hone cylinder
Polish Crankshaft
Balance I4Balance rotating assembly for Inline 4 engine
Hang Pistons Flo...Hang
BlockDeck Inline engine Clean engine block Freeze plugs
Balance shaft bearings
ARP 7-bolt main stud set
Align Hone engine block Assemble
4G63 short block Force Engineering ZFG Short Block
Machine rod Machine oil squirter in connecting rod set
Kiggley Street Beehive springs& retaineretainer set
3 angle valve job
Force Engineering 4G63 port work (Stage 1)
Deck Cylinder HeadLevel and cut cylinder head
Assemble DOHC head
Supertech 1mm over Intake valve
Valve stem seal set
Bead blast & hot tank cylinder head
Exhaust stud set
Supertech Exhaust Valve Standard size
Kiggly HLA
Street&Strip 4g63 head (stage1),
Stubby Shaft
Castle plug
Balance shaft spacer
Tensioner Pulley
Idler pulley
92-94 Tensioner
Straight cut oil pump gears
Force ISF oil pump gear finish water pump
timing belt
3 gen lifter set
Labor to complete long block assembly from short block
L19 7-bolt head stud set
4G63 gasket kit
Fel-Pro Perma Torque HG
Mail oil galley plug
7-bolt core short block
7-bolt core cylinder head
ATI balancer
Fidanza adjustable cam gears
Gate's Kevlar timing belt
Kelford 272 cams
I hope i didn't forget anything LOL...[DOUBLEPOST=1416858082][/DOUBLEPOST]So back to clutch, fuel system, turbos and ecu. I have spent a little more than planned but it will be worth it knowing my engine was dune right. So after all at force engineering i have some $$$ left and need to pick an ecu and turbo... I will be useing this as a daily driver and its also my weekend fun car... So i need good spool up. I also want 12-30 psi by 3000RPM-4000RPM and im shooting for around 400HP-600HP keep in mind i live in Oregon and well its hilly and the turbo needs to be reliable. Thanks for the input
 
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Just to answer the question in regards to the 100mm crank. A good oem crank is just as strong if not better than an eagle crank. Very often the eagle cranks are way off balance and if not corrected will snap under high hp. The stock cranks have been used upwards of 800hp.

If you really wanted something sweet, you could build a 2.1 destroker.
 
Hey man, I live just outside of springfield!

I built a 4g64 2.4 dohc swap for my friends spyder, just started it the other day.

Build thread
Pre planning thread

That is a great list you got for the build.

Where is force engineering?

We should meet up sometime
Send me a p.m. im looking to find more dsm guys where i live cuz i sent my motor all the way to MI this time LOL
 
Clutch help! Ok so ive been looking for a clutch. So first ill tell you how i drive the car. I take this car on rode trips often go camping and it sees plenty of snow and mud. Yet with that sed, it has also been used as a rode race, time attack ,sprint and circuit car. I take it to car shows and daily drive the sh$! Out of it 9 times out of ten i drive it i turn the boost up to 12-18psi in town and 20-30psi on track. I have an fp green ill be useing with an external tail waste gate. Dule stage boost controoler for easy street or track pre tuning . but heres my delima i need a full face clutch sprung would be nice but it needs to hold 400-500 hp and i do burn up my clutch at launches and around turns to drift in snow graval and mud. and i break boost at times to so yah im not nice to the clutch i never pop my clutch just rev slightly hier than the next gear im going into and power through the slipping of clutch. If dune right it can give me the edge I need to be competitive. So what has worked well for you guys and gals? Not sure how many of us drive this way or have experience driving this way but advice on a good clutch thats not to stiff would be greatly appreciated thanks
 
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