The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

11/23:
Here's that stuff I was working on a little yesterday:
3Wm9Qkxl.jpg


From left to right, New upper and lower t-stat housings, front motor mount bracket, side motor mount bracket w/ new oem timing pulleys installed. CAS (green top) cleaned and painted the top black, my o2 housing/tial wg, and the torque solutions 3/4" npt drain for T6 turbos w/ Jeg's 3/4npt-1"hose fitting.

Also grabbed my old oil pan and drilled out the oem hole with the 29/32" drill bit I got, tapped for 3/4" npt, and its not a terrible fit with another 3/4npt-1" hose fitting:
04fZ72sl.jpg


This is just finger tight in the oil pan, but I think it'll work well.

sGoPX1Gl.jpg


So I'll just do some test fitment to make sure having 2 straight fittings doesn't make the 1" tubing bend too tightly, and if this does work, I'll drill and tap my new oil pan the same way, and find someone to tig the perimeter of the fitting, as well as the original bolt holes shut.
 
@Maes I won't be using the stock one. I'll be using the wideband that comes with the Innovate gauge I'll be getting, and that gets a new bung welded on the downpipe.
 
@Maes I won't be using the stock one. I'll be using the wideband that comes with the Innovate gauge I'll be getting, and that gets a new bung welded on the downpipe.
That makes sense to me and its nice to clean up the engine bay with that out of the way. Would you be putting the new bung in after the flex section?
 
11/30:
Had a long weekend, so wanted to get some work on the frame accomplished. Mounted up the steering rack, tried to center the wheel and the rack as best as I could, but when I eyed up the hubs, I screwed on the driver's outer tie rod end on 11 turns, whereas the passenger side was like 18 turns. So I might have put the rack up off a tooth to the steering column. Also installed the front brakes and brake lines:
jW2NHFQl.jpg


Got the JNZ abs delete lines up (even tho I didn't have ABS in the first place, but damn that stainless looks nice!):
4mXjYQOl.jpg


Also in that pic, new non-cruise throttle cable is in, newer shift cables installed (just have to bolt them in from the cabin to finalize), and stevie miller sent me that trim piece there between the headlights. Guess Jim left that off when he installed the fmic or something.

Just have to finish up the passenger side front brake, and install the front sway bar now.

As far as motor goes, waiting on the new ARPs to arrive, so I'll bolt the head down with the cometic 1.6mm mls I have sitting here, and I found a great deal on some new BC272's, so those will go in with the new lifters and rockers, and I can finish mocking up the turbo oil drain.
 
nice I like the ss brake lines gotta do mine too kinda crusty, why the bc cams I got a hook up on those too just got to buy them.
 
why the bc cams I got a hook up on those too just got to buy them.

Since I have this brand new OEM head, I don't want to mess with the valve springs and retainers. I'm not even going to port/polish it even though I wanted to. The bc's are good with stock valve-train, and I couldn't beat the price, so that's why I did it. Also, I'm trying to balance street manners with some horsepower, so I need spool down low, but top-end up high. So the hx35/.55ar BEP I get better spool, but with the FRH manifold I'll lose that bonus. I was also racking my brain with a cam combo that would be good for street manners, so I was toying with the Crower 264/272 combo, then I researched the bc's272, which are really like 268's, so that's what I went with.
 
Oh I see my price is good too shipped , when the time comes ill be keeing this head as is except for cams but I got a spare engine for a later higher horse power build, mines street car too, and looking a the holset hx 35 too, and .55 bep too, but keeping my fp manifold which all hot stuff needs to be ceramic coated but hey I got time.
 
12/6: Well Black Friday came and went, what did you all buy ?

I bought:
Competition Clutch Stage 3 kit
Competition Clutch Flywheel
Competition Clutch Fork
FIC hi-z 1100's w/ bypass plug
BNIB Webcams Street grind
Magnus Fuel Rail w/ -6an in/out
Some random fasteners I needed, oem TOB and retainer clip, etc. etc.

Finished wrapping the exhaust manifold and bolted the turbo components together for test fitment.

PcHxH2Ul.jpg


First order of business tho, bolt the head up!
New ARPS went on the block torqued in 3 steps to 90ft-lbs., as well as new revised lifters and rocker arms:
MpNQPekl.jpg


Sexy webcams came next, so glad I found these:
DbKj1a8l.jpg


Oh yea, when using ARPs, don't forget to grind down the front motor support bracket so you can take the head off, otherwise the bottom right exhaust stud will interfere with it:
mwYLBHAl.jpg


Turbo test fitment, drain angle, etc:
DBKH5Kgl.jpg


Looks like we're a little cocked here, LOL, took the turbo back off and clocked the CHRA so the drain was pretty much straight down.

Double-checked the front cover, I did have the proper 25mm bolt in the bottom right, but swapped out the one I had where the balancer pulley would go, with a 16mm bolt as I read on here somewhere:
4ajcvLHl.jpg


Also installed the new big crank pulley bolt, kinda disappointed it doesn't have the 1/2" socket insert in the middle like the 92 OEM bolt had. I enjoyed being able to turn the crank with just a 1/2" socket or breaker bar... now it can only be done with a 22mm socket. So anyway, have 4 new small crank pulley bolts there, and the cam sprocket tool installed there as well. Wasn't a perfect fit and I had to tap it between the 2 cam gears with a hammer, but its there now.

Now to figure out this oil drain. I have the 3/4"npt-1" hose fitting on the bottom of the turbo, and another one mounted on the old oil pan. Here's how it looks with the motor upside down:

ZbnwNAal.jpg


and LOL, here's how it looks with 1" hose on it:
UruRyPMl.jpg


Will have to do some more RnD on the oil drain.

So I flipped her back over, and here's how she looks with the valve cover I painted, and the eagle talon logo oil cap :)

NQeJ60vl.jpg
 
Love the wrap job got my eyes on a similar setup when I do my next build got the basics head and block, just gotta get my parts list together.
 
As for your current drain issue, run down to the local parts store and ask to see their hose isle. Find something that is pre-bent in the direction you need. It must be close or the drain will collapse.

Even if you find something to fit, those hoses will be made to handle coolant not oil. You will need to keep an extra hose in the car in the event you find the one your using starts to get soft. This happened to me before I switched to the AN fittings.

FWIW, I went through a lot to find a quick solution that was sub-par and ultimately failed. If I had not checked the hose, it would could have possible ruined an expensive build.

Another thought, welding that bung into the pan really limits what you can do because in will forever be straight coming out of the pan. I would suggest using a weld in bung threaded in 3/4NPT just like the turbo fitting.

Lastly, that front motor mount is going to be in the way. This is another reason why those straight fittings will not work. Before you make any permanent installations, I suggest you check the clearance of the front motor mount.

Edit: Have you thought about adjustable cam gears? Only read through the last 10 posts so not sure if you already talked about this.
 
Lastly, that front motor mount is going to be in the way. This is another reason why those straight fittings will not work. Before you make any permanent installations, I suggest you check the clearance of the front motor mount.

Edit: Have you thought about adjustable cam gears? Only read through the last 10 posts so not sure if you already talked about this.

Rob,
I already researched a couple options for the oil drain/front motor mount issue. I found a 3/4"npt/16an 45 fitting, looks like it would work wonderfully right off the turbo and away from the motor mount.

Then thinking of finally doing a male 16an bung on the oil pan. Then connect it with a pre-made stainless braided 16an hose. I saw a couple different lengths on ebay.

Also, I'm staying away from cam gears. I know people use them, I know people time them, I know cams can come from the factory off a degree or whatever, but cam gear hardware can fail, and that scares the crap out of me. So I'm just gonna stay away from them.
 
Hey tony where did you find the oil cap, I haven't looked but I like it, is your setup for dump on the exhaust?
 
Hey tony where did you find the oil cap, I haven't looked but I like it, is your setup for dump on the exhaust?
Vic,
Found it on ebay! Mine's gloss black, but here's flat black, but you can search his other listings for other colors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Flat...ts=Make:Eagle|Model:Talon&hash=item2c6b953ad0

My o2 dumps to atmosphere, it was made by rob @ extreme motorsports back in 2003, same with my tubular manifold. They came with the car, and I used to love extreme and everything the Glazer clan accomplished, which is why my build is partially a "rare parts" / old-school build. Hence those parts, the web cams, stuff that's hard to find.
 
I found a 3/4"npt/16an 45 fitting, looks like it would work wonderfully right off the turbo and away from the motor mount.

Then thinking of finally doing a male 16an bung on the oil pan. Then connect it with a pre-made stainless braided 16an hose.

Also, I'm staying away from cam gears. I know people use them, I know people time them, I know cams can come from the factory off a degree or whatever, but cam gear hardware can fail, and that scares the crap out of me. So I'm just gonna stay away from them.

You are using a tubular Manifold that may locate your turbo slightly different than the FP manifold that I used but my drain was hitting the block when trying to utilize a 45 off the the turbo. The only way to make the 45 work in my case was to clock the CHRA like your first mock up picture. The 45 may very well work for you, I just had issues so I am sharing what I can since our setups are similar.

Your doing all this work..... surely you’r not scared of a few 8mm bolts coming loose and trashing your head :) I had the same fear but someone mentioned adding loctite to each adjustment bolt and 4 years later its held up with no issues.

Not trying to talk you into cam gears, but you mention trying to maintain the street ability and adjustable gears will allow you to do this for sure.
 
Happy holidays to all! Hope Santa brought you all some good mods 'n stuff!

I ordered a couple more things for my oil feed/drain project.

Finally decided to chop up the front motor mount bracket, looks like it might be a little more than @robertbaxley03 did, and I'll clean up the sharpe edges in the middle later, once my drain setup is complete. But for now, here's my old pan that I tapped for 3/4" NPT with a 3/4npt-12an fitting, plus the same fitting up on the turbo drain outlet:

56pDwCJl.jpg


I measured for the hose and it would be about 9" from end-to-end, fittings included. But rather than take a chance on a pre-made hose with ends, I ordered 2' of hose and some various fittings instead. So I'll just do a push-loc style w/ braided stainless hose.

Then onto my oil supply project. I had ordered the vibrant vacuum block, which I'll be using as an oil distribution block. I also have the nifty 1/8"bspt-1/8"npt-1/8"bspt fitting, so I can retain the needle gauge on the cluster. (I'll just yank the bulb for the idiot light). I won't need it because I'll set the innovate mtx-d gauge to blink at say, 8psi, for a warning indicator. Should be a little more noticable than the idiot light on the dash anyway.

So here's the pic:
aDufCv1l.jpg


I have an 18" line to the block, and a 24" line from the block to the turbo. And there's the 2 senders for the innovate gauge on the block. I wanted to mount it to the engine, but I don't think there's really any room for it there, so I might just have to wait and do final assembly once the motor is in the car. If I mount this in the engine bay somewhere, then I'll probably have to order a longer feed line to the turbo anyway.

So I'll just be waiting for the drain fittings to arrive so I can finalize that portion of the build.
 

Attachments

  • 56pDwCJ.jpg
    56pDwCJ.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 206
  • aDufCv1.jpg
    aDufCv1.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 239
Last edited:
I used the push-lock fittings as well and really like them. I had to trim off one of the barbs for clearance but they worked fantastic for me. Just be sure to select the right fittings before cutting them up.

As for the front motor mount, a little more really would not hurt. My drain is fairly close to touching but I was trying to retain as much metal as possible. Can’t wait to see some pictures.
 
@robertbaxley03 yea, it'll be similar to yours. I ordered -12an barb fittings; 1 straight, 2 45s, 1 90, and 2' of stainless -12an tubing. So far the tubing and the 90 came in, hopefully the 45s and straight are in tomorrow's mail.

So hopefully, tomorrow can be a little productive. I plan on putting the tins back on the head after cleaning them up and finding the little bolts for it, so I'll be ready for the timing belt soon. Still need to order a new timing cover, mine has a broken tab. I'm thinking i'll paint my lower timing cover black, and ordering the black oem cover from Josh. I'll probably need some more oem stuff anyway, bolts and such. Also have to get the t-stat body all put together with the new sensors and pipe plugs to block off water passages I'm no longer using.

My oil drain design may be an experimental option of a DIY at home, and not having to order a bung and have it welded to the pan. (For those of you just reading or need ideas, ff you do opt to have a bung welded to the pan, chose a new pan from the autoparts store/junkyard for a NON-TURBO. It's much easier to work with for this purpose.) I'm not totally convinced my 3/4" npt threads into the thin oil pan will be leak-free, but I'll give a try. I'll coat all the threads with black rtv, as I need that for the valve cover gasket and stuff anyway. And I'll just grab a couple really short hex bolts for the 2 oem oil flange bolts, and coat those as well before installing.

And here on my desk is the wire harness and soldering iron. Gotta start cleaning that up as well.


Oh yea, and pics still aren't working as they normally used to. Not sure what's up with that.
 
Hey tmoney kinda confused what set up on the oil drain you actually doing? U were going with 1in hose and I think I read right now going with push lock 12 -an hose? I ask coz I'm also using the hx40 and I have a oil pan that has 12 an fitting welded in and wondering if it is really needed to go to the recommended 14 an (19mm) also considered getting 13 an and drilling out the ID to 19mm or as close as I can with out completely removing all the top of the fitting for sealing purposes
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top