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1G HELP me bring this DSM back from the grave !!!

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gunner4usa

Proven Member
108
5
Nov 3, 2014
Hanover, Pennsylvania
Finally, my brother-in-law gave the 90 GSX up after 5 years of it sitting. His father used to go and start it once a week, but that was at least three years ago. I gathered up some common tools and a jump box and headed down to see what the car would even do. I put some mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a week. When I went back, turned the motor over by hand with no problems. Next, I went through and changed fluids and just about anything else you could think of before starting a car that has been sitting for a long time. Hooked jump box up and it cranked. Realized it was not getting fuel or spark. Replaced the MPI with a replacement and another ECU for the car. It still cranked but no spark or fuel. Check engine light cycled when the ignition was turned on, like it is supposed to. I got a copy of DSMLink and went down this weekend to see if I could figure out what was going on by using my laptop. When I hooked the jump box up this time, the check engine light did not cycle and the car would not crank at all. The other warning lights come on in the dash like the coolant and brake light. I tried combinations of the new and old ECUs and MPI relays. Please, if anybody has any ideas on this, please let me know. I really do not want to rent a trailer to get it up to my house without knowing if it will be something simple, $$$ or not to get it going.
 

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How does your harness look that you plug into the ecu? Is it all chopped up?

Not really. It's old but all connections are good. Power is getting to components, it just isn't getting spark or injector pulse. Checked the rewired CAS, because of old brittle wires, and it has voltage on one wire, ground an the yellow and white wires fluctuate while manually turning the CAS
 
Did you get everything plugged in the engine bay? Does the cel stay on once you try to start it?[DOUBLEPOST=1416757413][/DOUBLEPOST]you've checked power transistor and coil pack
 
Did you get everything plugged in the engine bay? Does the cel stay on once you try to start it?[DOUBLEPOST=1416757413][/DOUBLEPOST]you've checked power transistor and coil pack

Didn't plug in any of the ones that were not connected, the ones I posted pics of are still unplugged. The cel comes on for 4-5 seconds and then goes off. I need an easy way to check coil pack and power transistor. I have a digital multimeter and a test light here today
 
I just rebuilt my throttle body and am putting everything back on I will go out and get my car back to running. I have my meter here also so I can get readings and let you know what mine are.
 
UPDATE: Well, after finally getting the ECU to power up, I discover that I will need a CAS. Thanks to Maes for running through all the unplugged crap under the hood. Now I can clean all that crap up and start to make it look cleaner. With the ignition on the red wire gets 12v, the black is ground but the white and grey are not fluctuating at all. One stays at 2.90 and the other steady at like 0.58. It looks like the sensor part itself is done. I am going to have to get that CAS from jbeaton9292.
 
UPDATE: 90 ECU sent to ECM Tuning, hopefully they will receive that by tomorrow.
1G CAS purchased from jbeaton9292.

If I get the CAS first, I will see if the 91 ECU will fire it up. Hopefully it will. Then when I get the ECU back from ECM Tuning, I'll switch the two wires back in the ECU harness and see how the car does with the actual base map that it is supposed to have. Whichever one happens first, I will let you all know the results.
 
Did we try the starter fluid trick, per chance?

When mine wouldn’t start due to bad fuel pump and fuel filter, The ol starter spray in the intake trick was able to get it going for a for a few seconds. at least at that point, I was able to draw some more definite conclusions on what all needed to be replaced.
 
When mine wouldn’t start due to bad fuel pump and fuel filter, The ol starter spray in the intake trick was able to get it going for a for a few seconds. at least at that point, I was able to draw some more definite conclusions on what all needed to be replaced.
Well if you have read earlier on I have suggested that but he is not getting any spark either
 
Well we do know for sure that your other ecu is bad so hopefully this one does work

This one didn't work either. This is the one that ECU Pin #101 did not have continuity with IC110 Pin #1. I ran a jumper wire between the two.
 
Correct what I was saying is that we know your one that you sent to ecm was bad because of how it acted and you don't have that back yet
 
Correct what I was saying is that we know your one that you sent to ecm was bad because of how it acted and you don't have that back yet

I'm only hoping that the one jumper wire was all this one needed. At least this way we can get it running while waiting for ECM Tuning. They might have that one for a while.
 
UPDATE:

Not so good for the 90 ECU. Information received from ECM Tuning today, "
Hey, Ron. We took a look at this ECU. Unfortunately, we're not going to be able to do anything with it. The board has a lot more damage than was evident from the original pictures. The cost to repair all this certainly exceeds the ECU's value.
I'm going to go ahead and refund your service request payment of $30. I can also refund the $10.54 in return shipping if you just want us to toss the ECU for you. Or I can ship the ECU back unmodified."

I really hope the 91 ECU is functioning how it is supposed to and that the CAS I bought gets the baby going.
 
I would guess the cas would fix it from what youre describing. Id also go and check the cas in relation to the timing once its together. With a 6 bolt thats critical. I actually run a 91 cas on my 2g, just with the crank sensor portion unhooked. It ran wierd with the simulated crank sensor. Without an oem crank pulley there was also no way to time it.
 
I would guess the cas would fix it from what youre describing. Id also go and check the cas in relation to the timing once its together. With a 6 bolt thats critical. I actually run a 91 cas on my 2g, just with the crank sensor portion unhooked. It ran wierd with the simulated crank sensor. Without an oem crank pulley there was also no way to time it.

bmxfelon420,

I will find out as soon as I get the CAS. I wiggled the wiring around on the one I have now and got injector pulse once and only once.
 
Yeah thats common with the 90. Your best bet is to get rid of as many of the 90 specific things as possible. Like the 91+ power transistor and coils, which requires some mods wiring wise. Youre already well on your way with the ecu. The 91 CAS (pretty sure thats what youre getting?) will be good as well. Someday id also swap the shifter cables, brackets, and I think the shifter assembly itself for later stuff. I know some people say to keep these original but I had a buddy who could not get an operable cable, bracket, trans, and shifter combination on his car. Having the newer, more common parts would help.
 
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