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turbo bolts finding

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I just dug through my bolt drawr and belted that shit together. Sure every half a year to a year the one or two might come loose, but you notice. I carry every thing I need to fix small stuff like that in my trunk. I don't think I'll ever by those turbo bolts.....till I upgrade to FP exhaust manifold. Then probably.....so thinking back on what I said. My statements kinda only apply to a tubular manifold. =3. Well this tread is highly useful for my future.
 
I just dug through my bolt drawr and belted that sh** together. Sure every half a year to a year the one or two might come loose, but you notice. I carry every thing I need to fix small stuff like that in my trunk. I don't think I'll ever by those turbo bolts...

The OEM washers are lock washers so the they don't come loose, and if your not using the correct bolts there more likely to get stuck and break off in the turbine housing.
 
I just dug through my bolt drawr and belted that sh** together. Sure every half a year to a year the one or two might come loose, but you notice. I carry every thing I need to fix small stuff like that in my trunk. I don't think I'll ever by those turbo bolts.....till I upgrade to FP exhaust manifold. Then probably.....so thinking back on what I said. My statements kinda only apply to a tubular manifold. =3. Well this tread is highly useful for my future.

This is far from the truth for many reasons.

As stated by synthetek, the OEM washers are conical washers. The reason for using two of these washers (with dimples pointing away from each other) is to apply constant pressure to the bolt (kinda like a spring). This ensures that the bolt does not loosen during operation. It is also believed to aid in keeping your bolt from breaking upon extraction.

The grade of the bolt and whether its hardened or not are also very important here to avoid breaking the bolt upon future removal. The last thing you want next time pulling the turbo is to extract a broken bolt from the Turbine housing.

More info and disscussion on this subject can be found here.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/manifold-turbo-bolts.398053/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/turbo-bolts.334336/

This thread explains the common deficiencies with ARP bolts and why you should not purchase them.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/arp-stainless-steel-turbo-bolts.287711/
 
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The OEM pieces have worked the best for me. The ARP hardware has not held up well in my experience (SS and Oxide). The ARP stuff is good for other areas, just not for the manifold/turbo.
 
I just dug through my bolt drawr and belted that sh** together. Sure every half a year to a year the one or two might come loose, but you notice. I carry every thing I need to fix small stuff like that in my trunk. I don't think I'll ever by those turbo bolts.....till I upgrade to FP exhaust manifold. Then probably.....so thinking back on what I said. My statements kinda only apply to a tubular manifold. =3. Well this tread is highly useful for my future.

This is one of the most asinine posts (out of a LONG list of asinine) posts that I have ever read.

My first impulse is to simply delete it, but at this point I think it should stay. I think future readers in search of helpful information should have a point of reference for exactly how NOT to bolt stuff up on their car.
 
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What's everyone using, with success, for tubular manifolds ? Because they're like half the length of the OEM bolts...
 
Do not use ss bolts on exhaust manifolds or turbos, they are softer and will gall up and break upon removal after use. Use the oem as stated above and you will not regret it.
Hmmm that strange because I take out my manifold and my turbo bolts over 5 time and I have no problem with it. Positive news about those is it doesn't get rusty.
 
Jesus this ignorance undoubtedly knows NO bounds. Where do you source your info from? Not even the internet could conjure up such folly. This cannot even be called ignorance, it is deliberately wrong.

Why should I spend money when that money is needed for, transmission rebuild, paying someone to do it. If you want to call me a fool. If someone chooses to make a choice whether safe or not. Its not your job to to be rude, give advice, or even lie.(not that you would). The point being I'm tired of being treated like crap because I'm not a simpleton. I can't think of anything in a simple way. When I ask a question here, rarely ever do I even get the answer I'm looking for. Unless I'm asking something I don't understand. Then its simple.
 
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No, there are specific materials/alloys/mixes for specific applications. It's not just a bolt. Otherwise auto manufacturers wouldn't spend research money on exhaust bolts etc. For most common jobs sure, if the bolt fits it'll work. But there are some pretty demanding tasks for our mani to turbine bolts.

Call up ARP they'll tell ya all about how their bolts ARE NOT intended for our application. Yeah, blame the vendors.
 
Like I said. Random bolts that fit. Since someone assumed I meant any kind of bolt. I'll add you should use industrial high temp bolts.[DOUBLEPOST=1416638697][/DOUBLEPOST]

A god damn bolt. Is a bolt. If it works. Why the f*** should I spend money when that money is needed for, transmission rebuild, paying someone to do it. If you want to call me a fool. Then why am I not cracking open my own transmission and f***ing up? If someone chooses to make a choice whether safe or not. Its not your job to to be rude, give advice, or even lie.(not that you would). The point being I'm tired of being treated like crap because I'm not a simpleton. I can't think of anything in a simple way. When I ask a question here, rarely ever do I even get the answer I'm looking for. Unless I'm asking something I don't understand. Then its simple.
A bolt is not a bolt when you're talking about something that can see upwards of 2000*F heat cycles, sorry. SS bolts are far softer than the OE steel bolts so when you hit a burr in the cast steel hotside the SS bolt will immediately gall. Now you have a bolt that won't tighten and gets harder to turn as you back it out, then it snaps in the threads of the hotside.

The cost of the four bolts and eight washers from ExtremePSI comes to $55 shipped, agreed it's pricey and 8yrs ago I would have considered making that trip to Home Depot and finding replacements. The problem is spending that $55 now and installing them properly (using anti-seize and torquing them to spec) means you'll save yourself money in the future. I've snapped ONE bolt off in my turbo housing before and the machine work alone cost $60, that was for one bolt.

Use a bag of free bolts now and destroy the threads in your hotside later, potentially costing you well over $60, or buy the right bolts and washers the first time and never have to worry about it again. After I snapped the bolt off into my hotside I bought a brand new set of bolts/washers from ExtremePSI (back in 2008) and have been using the same set ever since, I've probably pulled my turbo at least a dozen times and they're still good as new. Money well spent...


For the OP.
 
Why should I spend money when that money is needed for, transmission rebuild, paying someone to do it.

I would pay an extra $40 to completely avoid the headache, which is very realistically possible. The bolts are even reusable. Its only the washers you need to buy. Besides, that marginal cost is negligible in comparison to a trans rebuild...
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=home depot dsm turbo bolts

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_40_204&products_id=3096

If you want to call me a fool. If someone chooses to make a choice whether safe or not. Its not your job to to be rude, give advice, or even lie.(not that you would). The point being I'm tired of being treated like crap because I'm not a simpleton. I can't think of anything in a simple way.

I don't care if you used boogers and toe jamb cheese to stick your turbo on. Someone else who actually searches before asking questions may read that and think its cool. Hence the strong opposition, so it is someone's duty to reject your claims. But again, clearly you don't know about searching as evidenced by the types of statements and questions you produce.

When I ask a question here, rarely ever do I even get the answer I'm looking for. Unless I'm asking something I don't understand. Then its simple.
You have been down this road before... Many times, actually. The answers you seek are already there. I know because I found them when I did not know.


Ok, In a pinch I used Home depot bolts. This was when I snapped the 22 year old oem stud. That bolt was then HEAVILY anti-seize coated and was only there as long as it took jnz to ship me a new set. A few days even a month may be ok, just don't let it stay that way ANY longer than you absolutely have to.
 
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