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lc2 wideband install questions

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auker1

Proven Member
99
0
Feb 7, 2013
Mifflintown, Pennsylvania
Ok so I have been searching and can't find a clear answer to a couple questions. I don't have access to a welder here at school so I was thinking of running my sensor in the stock o2 location and running nb simulation to the ecu. Here is my problem, there are two yellow wires, a white wire and a brown wire that I do not have connected yet. Which wire do I need to send to my ecu to simulate narrowband? Next question, there are a lot of people that only install the sensor in the stock location. Everything says that cuts down on sensor life which is understandable. I have also been told to run in the rear stock location but I am pretty sure that won't give me an accurate reading as everyone says. Would it be better to just leave the sensor out until I can weld the bung in or run in the stock location for now? I know its a lot of questions but this is my only source of info for dsms. any information is appreciated
 
I assume you're a 2g so I guess 2g owners with wideband installs can help. I'm a 1g and have not yet installed mine, but have read the directions and also got input from other tuners. I'll be deleting my o2 housing sensor and installing a plug. I'll be installing the wideband 24" past the turbo (per innovate instructions) and simulating narrowband from that, which should be just before my flex section.
 
Are you sure you have an LC-2 WB? I don't believe the LC-2 has a white wire. However, the LC-1 does have a white wire, which is a ground.

You don't have to hook up anything extra to simulate the WB. Just run the 0-5v output to the ECU for the WB like you normally would. Then, configure ECMlink to simulate the narrow band and the ECU will produce the 0-1v simulation internally.

Running the sensor in the stock location is a matter of debate. Innovate says not to, but the guys at ECMtuning say they have been doing it for years and it's fine. I have run the LC-1 in the O2 housing before, and never experienced any issues. Simply, I'd say if you need to run it in the o2 housing, you'll be fine.

If you do mount somewhere in the downpipe, make sure the gasket between the downpipe and O2 housing is properly sealing. A leak in this location will allow extra oxygen into the system, and can throw off your WB readings.

On a street car, I would recommend keeping the factory O2 in the stock location, while mounting the Wb in the downpipe as close to the O2 housing outlet as possible. This will accomplish 2 things. First, it will place the O2 sensor a bit further downstream, possibly extending the life of the sensor. Second, it will allow you to retain the factory O2. Unless you need the extra ECU input, there's really no reason to delete the O2. The factory O2 does a very good job, and it's a great way to double check WB operation at idle and cruise. I'd keep the factor O2 whenever possible.
 
I will take a pic of the wiring that I have cause everyone seems to have different wires on their widebands. ill get that tonight. I think I will just wait and weld a bung into the exhaust and get a new exhaust gasket for the o2 housing. all the gaskets that I have put in there slowly blow out. anyone know a good quality gasket to put in there? I don't have any method of tuning. I figured I should get a wideband first and see how my car is running right now.
 
There are only 2 major wiring configurations for the Innovate WBs that I'm aware of. The LC-1 is 6 wires, and the LC-2 is 4 wires. Therefore, it's pretty easy to tell which you have. Not to mention, the controller box for each is distinctly different.

The narrowband simulation I referred to in my previous post only applies when using ECMlink. With other tuning solutions, it's probably completely different. If you are looking to wire in the wideband to simulate the narrowband O2 prior to implementing a tuning solution, I wouldn't recommend it. Even if the WB shows your car runs like complete ass, you won't be able to make any ECU adjustments, so there's not much of a point if you ask me.
 
ok well looks like ill be waiting till I go home next weekend to weld in a bung. just for clarity. I have a yellow wire coming from my gauge and a yellow wire coming from my controller. those two should be soldered together to send the signal to the gauge correct?
 
Kinda hard to tell you where the yellow wire goes when you don't know what WB you have. Is it the DB gauge, or what? I need to know if you have an LC-1 or LC-2, as the wiring for each is different.
 
yes it is the db gauge. it is an lc2. I bought it new from a member of eatsleepdsm facebook page
 
Ok. Well, I've never personally installed an LC-2, but I've done plenty of LC-1s.

So, you'll need to wire in the gauge in 2 steps. The first step being the wiring of the LC-2 controller box. For the LC-2, there are 4 wires:

-Red wire:
Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your vehicle. A
switched 12V source goes ON as soon as “key on” power is active.

-Black wire:
Connect to a good ground

-Yellow Wire:
Simply, this is the wideband signal. Analog output one (yellow wire ) is the 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. It is important to note for anyone else reading this, that this would be the BROWN wire on an LC-1 controller box. Connect this wire to whichever ECU input you choose. For a 2G with ECMlink V3, this would be one of the following ECU pins: 76 (O2 sensor front), 73 (Manifold differential pressure sensor), 75 (O2 sensor rear), or 85 (Barometric pressure sensor). For a 1G, this would be ECU pins 4 (Oxygen Senso), 15 (EGR temperature sensor), or 16 (Barometric pressure sensor). If you installing the gauge stand alone, and aren't wiring this into any sort of management system, just connect the yellow wire directly to the DB gauge's WHITE wire.

-Brown wire:
Should go unused

After you have the controller box installed, you need to hook up the DB gauge. It is pretty straight forward. One important note, make sure you connect the WHITE wire on your gauge to the YELLOW wire on the LC-2 controller box.

Innovete's DB gauge install instructions said:
1. Please follow the installation instructions that came with
your wideband (LC-2, LC-1, LM-2, or LM-1) prior to
installing the gauge.

2. Connect the DB gauge’s RED wire to a switched 12 volt
source (ignition switched).

3. Connect the DB gauge’s BLACK ground wire to the same
ground source shared with your wideband controller.

4. Connect the DB gauge’s YELLOW wire to a headlight power
wire (a wire that supplies current to the headlights). This
enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT
DIMMING WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch
will cause the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to utilize
the dimming feature, connect the yellow wire to ground.

5. The DB gauge’s WHITE wire is the signal input from the
wideband controller. The gauge is setup to work with an
analog output configuration of 0v = 7.35 A/F and 5v = 22.39
A/F.

LC-2: Connect the DB gauge’s WHITE wire to the
LC-2’s YELLOW wire.

LC-1: Connect the DB gauge’s WHITE wire to the
LC-1’s BROWN wire.

If something there doesn't make sense to you, let me know.
 
Hey thanks man. That is exactly what I was looking for. That helps me out a lot.
 
well I got it all wired up right and the bung welded in. free air calibrated the sensor exactly how the manual told me to. when I start my car it reads 7.4 during the warm up cycle and then jumps directly to 22.4 at idle. it reads around 17-18 during highway cruising. the only thing I did not do yet is hook it up to a computer cause I don't have a serial to usb port adapter. the manual says you should go in and make sure its in afr mode. Could it be in lambda and cause this reading? I will try a free air calibration again
 
well I got it all wired up right and the bung welded in. free air calibrated the sensor exactly how the manual told me to. when I start my car it reads 7.4 during the warm up cycle and then jumps directly to 22.4 at idle. it reads around 17-18 during highway cruising. the only thing I did not do yet is hook it up to a computer cause I don't have a serial to usb port adapter. the manual says you should go in and make sure its in afr mode. Could it be in lambda and cause this reading? I will try a free air calibration again

Sounds like you need to play with the tune if thats right.[DOUBLEPOST=1417822500][/DOUBLEPOST]Also if you were in lambda that 7.4 number would read .5 and 22.4 would be somewhere around 1.5
 
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