Hello everyone...

Got a problem I'm trying to track down, I have #1510 Galant VR4 and just picked it up from a long time friend...I've known this car for over 8 years, and finally ended up buying the car...here is the issue...car sat for a couple of years until I got it...put a brand new battery in it, and refreshed it, and starts and idles perfect....now the issue is under half throttle it will rev thru the powerband, but if you stab the throttle, it cuts out and will go no farther.....the previous owner said the alt died on the way home 2 years ago, and he put a used alt in it....so I let it sit for the night, and the next morning...battery is dead as a door nail...now its a brand new battery...he also has the battery in the trunk and made it so you can jump it from the front...and this is the kicker...it runs the same with the battery disconnected as when its connected....so I did a boost leak, and found 2 leaks...that have been fixed, yet it still is doing the same thing....I'm thinking its still the alt, although I have not tested the output of it yet...thanks to the weather...i'm correct in saying that dsm's hate not having a steady 12-13 volts at all times....so has anyone else come across this issue?

The Ecu has a keydriver chip for the inj, airflow sensor, stutter box, and turns the factory boos gauge into a knock gauge...has selectable launch rpm by pressing the throttle before the car starts, it will bump up on the stock boos gauge, and the ecu is socketed---Key the car on without starting, and each press of the throttle bumps up a light on the boost gauge---when you start the car it saves the rpm until you turn off the car

The cable was for data logging, basically old dsm link, says I need to look for a copy of old dsm link software off dsmchips.com

Also the power/Econ switches between high and low boost through the factory bleed off solenoid . ECM can still reduce boost if it goes into limp mode

Maybe all that will help someone help me out on this one....

I've had dsm's for years...but that's been over 15 years ago, I'm a Nissan Specialized mechanic for JDM engines, so getting back in the DSM world has me feeling like a newb all over again...

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help...if anyone wants to see a vid of what its doing pm me

Mod list is this, spearco front mount, HKS boz, 2g maf, full d/p and exhaust, and it did have some kind of tuning either software of chipped ecu, got the cable in the glove box...I'm trying to find out what it was from the former owner, and 510 or 550 injectors


Any help would be appreciated

Cheers
Marc

get the alternator tested first its usually free to do it at part source, canadian tire ,napa and since this car sat for a while go through everything possible that you can do for free like cleaning grounds ,checking sensors with a volt meter ,cleaning the throttle body, clean the egr or delete it with a piece of aluminum oh and about the 12-13 volt thing your right my car idles like crap when im sitting at a stop light with my subs bumping and ac on and my headlights i usually pay attention to my voltage with my gauge i bought and mounted under my right leg ,it works good

Assuming your voltage doesn't drop to less than 10-11 volts when it's doing the cutting out symptom, I would start by looking at a log of the TPS voltage.

I wonder if your cable will work with TMO log if its that old...

try this: http://rob.com/matt/dsm_logger/TMO/

Off topic a little bit but id love to see a picture or two of the vr4! Iv came close to buying one in the past. Such good looking cars. Plz and thanks