The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

Brake Pulsation

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wishihadatalon

20+ Year Contributor
2,615
72
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Alright guys, it has taken me a long time to get up the courage to post this thread and that is mainly due to the fact that this should be simple. With that said, I have a 1g that sat in a field for many years. I've slowly been rebuilding it over the last year and finally have it in driving condition. After getting it driving, I found a sticking caliper on the passenger front despite going through the slides and cleaning up the pins. This obviouslly caused a shake in the front end.

I have replaced or done the following items
Front:
1. Soft lines
2. Calipers
3. Rotors
4. Pads
5. Wheel bearings
6. Tires
7. Caliper Brackets
8. cleaned mating surfaces of hubs and wheels

Rear
1. Rotors
2. Pads
3. Verified that the calipers are in working order

So with all of that I still get a substantial pulse in the pedal and occasionally a shake in the wheel when I apply the brakes on the highway. I have had the car in off the ground in gear and didn't see a substantial amount of runout on the wheels or the rotors (I do have a little vertical runout on the rotors though) though I don't have an indicator to get actual measurements. I have done a shake down on the whole front end and everything appears to be tight.

I am completely out of ideas on this. I have checked everything mechanical that I can think of and I stll can not get rid of the issue. Does anyone have any thoughts? Could vertical runout cause this issue? I'm working on an indicator to get actual measurements.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

TJ
 
Check your ball joints as well. Given the steering wheel shake, the problem is almost certainly in the front end.

You can't see rotor warpage, it has to be accurately measured, but that is not difficult. pull the wheel replace/hand tighten the lug nuts (enough to firmly hold the rotor in place). Place your hand on the side of the caliper, holding a pencil, pen, screwdriver just away from the rotor and use your other hand to rotate the rotor, and you should be able to tell from that - any scrape-no scrape and replace the rotor. A dial gauge is obviously superior, but if you don't have one...

If the rotors are not new then inspect the friction surfaces carefully for any brake pad deposits. The deposits can be removed, using a die grinder and ScotchBrite pad, but given the cost of rotors, you're better off with a new pair.

Vertical runout will only give symptoms if it causes the rotor to be out of balance, or the runout causes the rotor to rub on the caliper bridge. However, these symptoms would be present all the time, not just when pressing the brake pedal.
 
Ive seen brand new rotors that are warpped straight out of the box, not often but it happens, you can have them resurfaced[DOUBLEPOST=1414690856][/DOUBLEPOST]Or return them as defective if they will let you
 
No abs. Just got an indicator on it and my front passenger rotor has .013" of runout. I'm going to remove the rotor later and check the hub to see if it has runout, but I doubt it due to the lack of any noticeable vibration while driving without using the brakes.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top