In this article I'll show you the steps/methods I used to pull the automatic oil pump and front clutch basket in order to install the Kiggly 5 friction disk front clutch kit.

Tools materials recommended:

• 3/8" Ratchet
• 3/8" Extension
• 12mm Socket
• Proclaw small pry bar (optional): 9 in. Pro-Claw Nail Puller-PC210G at The Home Depot
• Two 12mm x 1.25 bolts - I used some old oem main cap bolts.
• Kiggly 5-friction front clutch back for oem basket: Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
• A small pick or small flathead screw driver
• Auto transmission fluid

Safety Precautions:

• Wear eye protection
• Don't stab yourself with the pick or the screwdirver
• Don't smash your fingers with the slide hammer or pry bar
• ^^ That would hurt

Steps:
This is fairly simple if you take your time and pay attention. Once you remove the bolts around the pump, two of the bolt holes are larger and are threaded to be used for pulling the pump out. I circled those in yellow. A 12 x 1.25mm bolt can thread into these holes so you have something to pull the pump with. I happen to have some stock 6 bolt main bolts in my magnetic tray, so I used two of them to pull the pump


Thread in your 12 x 1.25 bolts until they bottom out, then continue threading these bolts in and the bolts will push the pump out of it's bore. You'll see the pump start to move as you tighten the bolts and you'll want to keep the pump coming out as straight as possible by alternating between the two bolts.

Once the pump has come loose enough, you can use the bolts to carefully pull it out of it's bore. If it is still tight and giving you trouble, you can use a small pry par between the bell housing and the head of the 12 x 1.25mm bolts to persuade it come the rest of the way.


Once the pump is past the housing it's really easy to pull out by hand. Just use the pulling bolts and slowly slide the pump out of the case.


Now you can easily slide out the front clutch pack.


Front clutch basket is out.


Now it's time to remove the front clutch disks and steels. Remove the retaining snap ring and then you can pull out the clutches/steels.


My front clutch disks were starting to show some wear for sure, most of them had at least a couple of spots that looked like this:



Kiggly 5 disk (for oem basket) clutches/steels on the left. Stock 4 disk front clutch pack on the right:


Please Note: The steels all have a spot where they are missing a tooth. You need to make sure you keep these lined up as you put the front clutch pack together, circled in green:


Kiggly 5 front clutch kit installed in the basket and ready to go back in the transmission. You need to soak the clutch disks in ATF for at least 30 minutes before you put it back together. I used the front basket for this by pouring ATF all over the steels and disks, one by one, as I installed them into the basket. Then I put the whole thing in a big zip lock bag to soak for a while before I put it back in.


Install is reverse of removal and you should now have roughly 25% more holding capacity. One thing to note upon reinstallation: You need to make sure the front clutch pack fully seats down into it's housing, sometimes the teeth on the friction disks are not aligned properly so they hang up on the splines as you reinstall, this won't allow the clutch pack to seat all the way into the housing. I usually use my pick or small screw driver to line up all the teeth on the disks and then carefully install the clutch pack so that it goes all the way into the housing - this may take you a couple tries, but you'll get it in. You may find it easier to pull the entire assembly out, install the front clutch pack on the bench and then slide the entire assembly back into the trans, whatever you need to do to get it right will work. I pulled apart a trans for a friend that was assembled without the front clutch pack installed properly, it was an absolute mess and will wipe out your pump.

Friction disk teeth at yellow arrows:


Splines the disk teeth must engage indicated in red: