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Need help Lots of issues after intercooler install

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dzolcali

15+ Year Contributor
146
0
Apr 8, 2005
Charlotte, North_Carolina
I recently installed a VRSF FMIC kit. After everything was done, I have a E-Brake light on (when the E-brake is down) Battery Light on, and none of the exterior lights will turn on, that includes, side markers, headlights, and tag lights.
Part of the install, I cut through the radiator support for the piping to go through, I removed the factory fog lights and tossed them (the clips are dangling underneath somewhere). I also removed the overflow coolant tank, I remounted the metal bracket in a different bolt hole under the fuse box (it won't fit with the short route piping).

I can't think of anything that would trip all those problems from what I did...Does anyone have any idea? Everything was perfectly fine before the install...If you have any help I would greatly appreciate it, I would like to drive the car after the install and enjoy the boost.

Thanks!
 
I recently installed a VRSF FMIC kit. After everything was done, I have a E-Brake light on (when the E-brake is down) Battery Light on, and none of the exterior lights will turn on, that includes, side markers, headlights, and tag lights.
Part of the install, I cut through the radiator support for the piping to go through, I removed the factory fog lights and tossed them (the clips are dangling underneath somewhere). I also removed the overflow coolant tank, I remounted the metal bracket in a different bolt hole under the fuse box (it won't fit with the short route piping).

I can't think of anything that would trip all those problems from what I did...Does anyone have any idea? Everything was perfectly fine before the install...If you have any help I would greatly appreciate it, I would like to drive the car after the install and enjoy the boost.

Thanks!
Also just a side note, this is a 1997 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, the black one in my profile is my previous 95 awd...this one is a couple years newer, dunno if that matters.
 
I can most definitely think of ONE major reason you having these issues. I happen to have done a complete engine wire tuck and hate to break it to ya partner but you cut through the harness!
It happens to run under rad and you probs hacked it up.
Now heres the good news, its not that hard to access if you are a little patient. Hoist it up or simply raise it and follow harness from passenger side or driver side. Look closely and get a light where you cut. Trust me, you will see what you did.
Probs popped a fuse or 2 and may have cooked a wire or 2. Cut, solder and shrink tube it. Easy enough fix, but please just do it right.
 
I cut the metal around the radiator with a dremel and was fairly careful not to hit the wire loom...I knicked the plastic once with a drill...but I checked it out and I don't think it went through the loom even, just chewed the outside a tad. I know the brake light sorta dims flickers when I release the E-Brake...none of the headlights or any of those work, and the battery light is on, but the car cranks, takes a little but it cranks...doesn't sound like a dead battery though, I've taken in on 3 drives around the block to test for leaks and what not...but that's it. Interior lights light up just fine. .. The other thing is I looked up the Tag lights aren't even affiliated with the front wiring harness....according to the dsm wiring diagram .PDF, but I don't know I'm not wiring expert...I'll check the alternator first and if it's not that then I guess it's back to ripping this whole shit project apart again and cutting the wiring loom open to see if I clipped something.
 
Based on your description I would check the alternator fuse or the alternator itself. I had the same thing happen it turned out to be the fuse. Also make sure put a flash light on it because mine didn't burn out where it was visible. I learned that the hard way.
 
I conure with the guys above I bought my daily with horrifying electrical problems cheap guy put an alt and 2 yrs of why he said trying to figure it out... Bought the 3$ fuse for the alt and done just make sure I look my fuse was bolted not just a pull out
 
That sounds real awesome guys, I hope it is this...Where is this fuse at, and who would carry it like advanced auto maybe? So would the lights side lights and tag lights go out based on an alternator fuse too?, the dash back lighting doesn't come on with the light switch either, presumably they are connected on the same loop. Thanks again you guys are a great help, glad to be back in the dsm community again.
 
Engine bay fuse box. It's one of the bigger two fuses on the left of the box.

Don't quote me, but I think one is a 7mm and the other bolt an 8mm? It's either that or one is just more difficult to get at.

Headlights on, keys out, if it doesn't beep it's the fuse. But, it's best to just check the fuse.
 
No lights worked on my car when it ran with a bad fuse an it would die quick with a bad batt and bat fuse it would only run when jumpers were on it I fixed it in his driveway an drive home LOL, fuse located pass side fuse box too of box will tell u location but on my 1g it was twards the ft of te box only one that was angled and on the side near batt and h can buy fuse at advanced or autozone in the shelf tybuauallybstock then it's an 80am fuse I believe don quote me it has a nut and bolt goi through it look for the bolt and fuse can't miss it u has a hard time get a manual or YouTube it of google makes it easy for beginners good luck man
 
Ok, so I bought a MultiMeter, and a new 100amp fuse...Old fuse looked good, I replaced it anyways. Battery was bouncing around from low to 14.99 when running, turned the car off, battery was 12.99 on the dot. Checked the fuse connection to the alternator too....bounced around but peaked in the 14 range. So those check out fine I suppose. I didn't get a chance to check the alternator because it's dark and I have no way of seeing what to read on...but I imagine the alternator is working fine. I checked all the fuses under the dashboard and all are working, none blown. I'm stumped, I moved the cables that connect around the radiator support right by the short route intercooler just a bit, and rebolted the bracket for the coolant overflow tank. It had some various cables connected to it. And I knicked the wire loom when cutting with a drill...chewed up the plastic. I'm trying to avoid taking the whole FMIC out again and bumper etc...just to check. Any ideas? it's obviously something from the install since it wasn't doing any of this before. are their any fuse linkages, this is so baffling...Should I un wrap the wireloom and start there (I really don't want to :( )
Bahhh
 
Problem resolved! Just to inform whoever...I did not go through the wire loom, however I did reground the fuel pressure regulator (two vaccumm lines coming off of it*small little box with a wire clip attached) and I also regrounded another wireclip that appeared to be a grounding wire set (these two were originally bolted to the factory overflow coolant tank bracket). I then put new vaccumm lines on them, and I replaced a 40Amp fuse *Green* under the engine fuse cover...it sparked when I connected it but did not blow the lights and tag lights and dash lights then came on...once I reassembled the upper intercooler piping and reconnected everything, I got a check engine light *something about manifold pressure incorrect* however the battery light and E-brake light went off and worked correctly....apparently they are in the same wire set for anyone down the road that may be curious, or perhaps they were grounded on the wire clip that I re-grounded...either way, success!
Thanks for everyones input and help in this matter, very satisfied with the NGR Blow Off Valve (So loud and sexy sounding) as well as the VRSF intercooler (although it is a bit of work) for those looking to run the vrsf and needing a "V" pipe to fit on a passenger side firing turbo, ETS makes a premium V pipe that will help redirect to the driver side....you can then get the ETS 2.5 to 2" coupler and slide the V pipe into the Elbow pipe that comes with the VRSF kit...size the distance to fit and clamp it down...worked like a charm, no need for cutting since one fits inside of the other. Great install...solid power in a higher RPM range now, and some good boost and sound still running 10psi with occasional 12 psi spikes, will need to get a MBC here soon enough.
 
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