Benjyc32 said:

Why would I need to drill? I'll just pull the hoses for the heater core, hook a pressurized line to it and blow it out the other side.

Click to expand...

Someone else suggested drilling a hole n the thermostat flange to burp/bleed the system. I was suggesting a better route for bleeding the air out after you verify the heater core is clear and you refill the system.

Benjyc32 said:

I'm about to take a air compressor and blow anything and everything out of my heater core by pressurizing the hoses. hopefully that'll tell me if I'm running around with a clogged core.

I'm also running 50/50 coolant just cause im not sure where around here i can buy 30/70. But honestly I've been using 50/50 my whole life and never seen any problems with mine or anyone elses.

Click to expand...

I use the full strength and just mix it myself with distilled water. I should of clarified that.

Should be 50/50.

One can buy a gallon of 50/50 premix and be all set.

Then, when one empties that gallon jug, go buy a gallon of regular stuff, pour half of it in that empty jug and add water to both jugs and you have two gallons of 50/50 all ready to go.

I made the comment on drilling the .050 hole in the flange due to many experiences from "air lock" in certain cooling systems of many cars.

I picked up this trick many moons ago from an experienced and professional big engine truck mechanic who also did this trick on car owners complaining on these similar issues-by drilling the hole on T-stat flanges if the flange didn't have the jiggle valve already on the flange, for it was that jiggle valve that kept the system burped.

Thus, when I put a new T-stat in, I punch the .050 hole in the flange and never saw "air-lock" issues again.

Sometimes, you learn how to cheat, and not follow rules when it comes to car repair and maintenance - you MAKE it work for you in any way, shape or form.

This is what is called "a mechanic" when you can make it work no matter what.

-DSM

If you're sure the heater core isn't clogged/rusted, and the radiator, cap, and hoses are all good/unclogged - before switching to a 195* thermostat (which will work but you'll probably have to switch back to 180* in summer or get overheating), try covering up 1/2 of the radiator with cardboard (wedged between condensor and radiator). Standard winter proceedure here in Mn to get cabin heat. Then don't have to switch thermostats twice a year!

Another possibility is the blend door not sealing: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...t-after-thermostat-install.html#post151345002

Was this ever solved? I had the same issues replaced the clogged rusted heater core on my 1g fixed my problems. Lasers are known for this especially if they run straight water in them for some time. I did however also did change my rad cap and flush and fill the coolant system during this time.

luv2rallye said:

If you're sure the heater core isn't clogged/rusted, and the radiator, cap, and hoses are all good/unclogged - before switching to a 195* thermostat (which will work but you'll probably have to switch back to 180* in summer or get overheating), try covering up 1/2 of the radiator with cardboard (wedged between condensor and radiator). Standard winter proceedure here in Mn to get cabin heat. Then don't have to switch thermostats twice a year!

Another possibility is the blend door not sealing: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...t-after-thermostat-install.html#post151345002

Click to expand...

This is also useful information I know even after the heater core fix I don't need a cooling fan when temperatures are less then 60* even idling in drivethrus dsms run pretty cool.. also if your running the bpr7es or cooler it will impact warm up time as well as heat in the car..

About 6 mo. late but it is not necessary to ensure the heat is on and blowing with a DSM. DSMs do not have a heater valve that regulates heat with water flow. The heater core is seeing full coolant flow all the time.

Why bother 6 mo. later? Completeness and to save someone the headache of "burping" their coolant twice just cause the heat wasn't on.

Another trick for clogged heater cores is take both hoses off, flush water thru with water hose, and rhen reverse the hoses thus changing the direction of flow thru the heater core, works 9/10. Luv2rallye is shot on about the cardboard in the feont bumper, unless u live way up north there is no reason to run such a strong coolant mixture, 50/50 will b more than sufficient. Coolant is derived and made from battery acid, and is corrosive