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420A TheFrustration

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tryingtofixthis

Proven Member
36
0
Mar 16, 2014
columbus, Ohio
1998 2gnt

Bought with bad head drove it home to fix.

Replaced head. No spark.

Turns over smoothly don't hear anything but air compression.

Timed without removing balancer. Slipped belt over cams then bolted them down(this took several tries to get cam marks perfect, finding tdc with head off is easy)

Any way no spark. Fuel pump whirrs, relays click, I can smell gas on spark plug, engine turns.

I've tried 3 ecus (junkyard. Probably failed) 5 cam and magnet sensors, and one crank.

Knock sensor is broke connector unplugted.

I have 12v @ coil center wire, but no signal from the other 2.

.On my cam and crank , I have 5v, ground(12v), and 3.5v. Nothing fluctuates when attempting to start.

Serpennine belts and radiator not hooked up. Just trying to hear it run for second before I move forward.[DOUBLEPOST=1414197301][/DOUBLEPOST]I hope somebody helps me. It's such a nice car. I always wanted one despite it being called a chick car.

Couldn't bare to junk it there's too many good parts let alone the chassis. It solid not much rust at all. Small bend in the frame tho easy spot to beat out. Strut towers already replaced, I'm just gonna reinforce them. Needs seats Sun roof. Little bit of body work and an undecoat. She'll look great and be solid.
 
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If it ran b4 u pulled the head and doesnt run now and ur not gettin fire either something is left unplugged or its out of time, follow the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) rule, look back over all electrical connectors and ground points, make sure nothing unhooked, if good then pull balancer and timing cover and verify timing marks
 
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Yea unless you broke the timing covers off it's next to impossible to actally time the car right with that balancer on.

Go to an auto parts store and temt the tool to pull the harmonic balancer off. Make sure it's timed right.

Like zombie said if it ran before and all you did was change the head then something isn't plugged in right.[DOUBLEPOST=1414251641][/DOUBLEPOST]Also are you sure you found true TDC?

The number 1 piston being up doesn't automatically mean it's TDC since it comes up twice to make a complete cycle. If that's off 180 degrees that's why it's not firing.
 
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Would it be possible to get no spark if knock sensor is unplugged and not grounded? From reading the wiring diagram it shows that the ground for knock and crank are tied together.

If my timing is 180 out this means timing Mark on crank is facing bottom of the car? Wish I had the puller I'd time it today I guess it will have to wait a few days.
 
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U can rent the crank pully puller from any parts place, no the crank pully timing mark will b n the same up position, spin the crank 1 full revolution, u cannot properly time it with the crank pulley u have to get it off and get to the timing pulley behind the timing cover
 
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So how would one know if the engine is at ctdc vs. Etdc if the marks are at the same position? Once balancer is off of course.
 
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#1 spark plug out turn engine by hand at crank, when the timing mark on the crank comes around u will hear a slight whoosh from air bn push out of the cylinder, tht is compression stroke
 
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I didn't need a puller when I took mine off, only the 4 bolts and a light tap with my palm and it'll come off. I agree it needs to come off to time the engine correctly.
 
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My bad, guess i didnt notice when i replied. Ok so i replied from recent discussion, you got me.
 
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I am working on the same problem.

The manual says to not put the head on at tdc because its interference and there might be a problem if you install a cam and it wants to push a valve down and the cylinder is up. Pretty unlikely but remember not to force it in that situation when installing the cam.

Top center and timing should not be a problem with the belt cover off. I do the same thing at this point I want to get it running and Ill deal with the cover issue later.

I just tested for spark and have none so I am in the process of researching how to resolve that issue.

sensors are key. except it was running before?
 
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studabaker said:
I am working on the same problem.

The manual says to not put the head on at tdc because its interference and there might be a problem if you install a cam and it wants to push a valve down and the cylinder is up. Pretty unlikely but remember not to force it in that situation when installing the cam.

Top center and timing should not be a problem with the belt cover off. I do the same thing at this point I want to get it running and Ill deal with the cover issue later.

I just tested for spark and have none so I am in the process of researching how to resolve that issue.

sensors are key. except it was running before?
Click to expand...
Right u should set the crank just b4 tdc when installing belt, once belt is on rotate enginge twice by hand at the crank w/ crank stopping on timing mark and check both cams to make sure they r dead on, even one tooth of will run horrible
 
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Alright got s game plan. First I'm gonna get a puller and check timing. Tho I'm pretty sure it's in time.
Then I'm gonna start at ignition cylinder and works my way through the electrical system. Down alt circuit, theft(if I have it) and ecu.
Then test pin out on ecu.
wire colors/pin and correct connections
Replace knock sensor
and hook up alternator(apparently according to diagram it is part of asd and pcm circuit) and should be able to figure it out. Im gonna be an electrician at this rate.
 
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Before going nuts on all the wiring I would finish plugging in the rest of your engine bay. Of you have more stuff unplugged get it all together.

If the harness is completely plugged back in and still doesn't work then I would get deeper into the harness. Don't put yourself through that pain if you still have a handful of connections to plug in.
 
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Only one plug out. That's the knock sensor. Once it get that that I'll run s few tests then check time. Then I'm putting her back together and going all out on the electrical. I know it will be a pain... but it's starting look like I won't have a choice. This would be so much easier if I had a friend with a running eclipse same year.

Anybody from Columbus Ohio on here? Lol[DOUBLEPOST=1414447349][/DOUBLEPOST]Sooo, my knock sensor is broke off in the block. I don't think there is any way to retrieve it easily.
 
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It's in the hole a good 3rd of an inch.

On top of that the wires to key cylinder are spliced. Correct but spliced.
 
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You can try soaking it with pb blaster or wd40 specialty rust penetrant. Then try and take it out with an easy out. Might be very tough to do with the block in the car. For testing purposes it doesn't need to be threaded into the block just plugged in.

I doubt the key cylinder has anything to do with it. I would stay under the good right now. That's where you were and most likely where the problem is.
 
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