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Machine work info

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AlwaysSunnyOhio

Proven Member
171
38
Jul 6, 2014
Columbus, Ohio
I'm at that point in the build where I have pretty much everything collected. Now I'm looking to see how much I should expect to pay for the machine work. I know it all depends on the condition of the block and head. I'm just asking in generalities.


Also I live in Columbus Ohio and wanted to see if anyone knows of a reputable shop?
 
Its not just the condition of the block and head it also depends on what you want to do with them that will change the price. Cant put a price on machine work because all shops (imo) are different, don't pick the wrong one because they might not do the best of job. Cant help you with machine shops list on Ohio so best of luck man!
 
No idea about the prices in Ohio, or a reputable machine shop there. But I can go ahead and give you the prices I paid here in Idaho:
Deck the block: 55
Deck the head: 55
Valve job: 195
Assembly and dissembling of the head: 30
Hot tank (each time): 45
Replacement valves: 9 each
Replacement guides: 8 each
Bore and hone: 100
Clean the head: 25
If I had to cut the crank: 100
Think thats about all I did...
Each shop charges differently though. Make sure you go to a machinist who has worked on our engines before. And that they have a mill, not a belt sander
 
Now that's a price list. Thank you for typing all that out. I just really needed to know any price so I can have some sort of base.

If my crank needs cut (haven't Inspected it yet) is it better to just buy a new one?

I'm looking for ballpark of 400-450hp. I haven't bought head gasket or Pistons yet. Im waiting to see if it needs bored or honed. I'd like to have this car finished by next summer. Hopefully that's a realistic timeline[DOUBLEPOST=1414066986][/DOUBLEPOST]Oh and thanks again for the info on the mill vs belt sander. This is my first rebuild and I'm clueless. I usually just swap out motors
 
Full block and head including line hone(arp mains), head stock rebuild..... idk. Really what it boils down to is the shops hourly rate. Drop off a longblock and ask for a long block back and its gonna cost a bit more for assembly/disassembly time. Id say everything including labor should be under a grand. Also, fwiw, i am leary of running a cut crank. Some do, some dont. If done right you'll be fine. If they mess up just the slightest bit you're in for another costly rebuild within a hundred miles.

The more work YOU do the cheaper its going to be. If you feel comfortable assembling the rotating assembly then you will save money for sure. I wasn't. I just paid them to do it. Now the head? Yea, thats straight forward and you should put the head on yourself. That way you know for a FACT its been torqued properly.
 
I will definitely be doing all the work I can on my own. From what I've been reading if it needs cut I think I'll just get an eagle crank. Unless I can find a cheap oem one.

i might be ok with the rotating assembly on my own. My grandpa and friends have done them on other cars. That's a wait and see.
 
Do not use a cut crank, bad bad mojo. I found an oem crank, hot-tanked and polished, for $215 shipped on ebay from a machine shop in South Carolina (i think). Figured 200 bucks I'll take a chance. Mic'd it when it came in and she's golden:
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As for machine work, I dropped my block off to the recommended shop near me. Bore was going from an existing ~85.559 to 86.0, which they bore to .003" under spec, then hone the final 3 thousands. Also align-honed the mains for ARP studs. My total came to $570, which I think is a little excessive, being that they barely had to bore anything. Also gave them all new freeze plugs to install, but I guess I have to pay the bill if I want my block back.
 
As for machine work, I dropped my block off to the recommended shop near me. Bore was going from an existing ~85.559 to 86.0, which they bore to .003" under spec, then hone the final 3 thousands. Also align-honed the mains for ARP studs. My total came to $570, which I think is a little excessive, being that they barely had to bore anything. Also gave them all new freeze plugs to install, but I guess I have to pay the bill if I want my block back.

Well hot damn that's decent chunk of change. How did you go about finding/picking a machinist?[DOUBLEPOST=1414086593][/DOUBLEPOST]I check on eBay from time to time but I haven't found anything outstanding like that. There was one on there for $80 awhile ago said it just needed polished but I've learned my lesson with those deals.
 
Asked a guy here that works at napa and has a couple worked cars. Got their name, and then found out they work on "the doctor"'s motor, which is a 4g63 in an old corolla that runs 7's @ 189....

the white car:
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Performance Research on the corner of Innis and Westerville Rd. The owner is Robert Proffit. Been in the game a very long time and does good work. He put my shortblock together over 3yrs ago.

You will spend $750-$1000.
 
Performance Research on the corner of Innis and Westerville Rd. The owner is Robert Proffit. Been in the game a very long time and does good work. He put my shortblock together over 3yrs ago.

You will spend $750-$1000.


that's cool it's 5 mins from my place. I'll give them a call next week and see what the word is. Thank you.
 
You could just walk in and ask for Robert. Nice guy, but no BS kind of guy. I stopped in back in May to say hello to him when I was in Columbus for 2wks.

I think he is open until 2pm on Saturday's as well.

http://priracingengines.com/

If I was back in Columbus, I wouldn't hesitate to have him do another motor for me.
 
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