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The Quest for Voltage

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I 'm just curious on when shoving a much higher amp alternator on stock wiring that is designed for 70amp draw, aren't we a bit afraid of engine fires due to the lesser gauge wiring now being massive resistors when that high amp draw commences heating up that wire like a glow coil of sorts?

One would think that a total rewire with larger gauge wire would reduce this resistance factor ..

Presumably you are adding new wiring to new components that require the extra current draw.

As long a the voltage output stays the same, the existing components are going to draw the same current regardless of the current capability of the alternator. So you shouldn't need to do a total rewire. Just rewire a few main feeds, and then whatever new items you add in.[DOUBLEPOST=1413869941][/DOUBLEPOST]
Seen a few DSM's in yards halfway burned up due to engine fires.

I wouldn't look at that and assume it was too much current draw from a high power alternator. I'd look at that and think
1) Probably a bad wiring job. I wonder if I look through all the threads about wire tucks, if I can find out which poster on here that car belonged to.
or
2) Fuel leak or mechanical problem that led to a fire.
 
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I've got fic 950s and I have a rough idle as well. Let me know if your latency changes help
It should be noted that the deadtimes posted on the Link wiki are general deadtimes, each car is going to use slightly different deadtimes. I just think that the 450ms deadtime for the PTE 1000s is wrong if some are running a deadtime with a greater than 100ms difference.
Don't rule the term of nonsense just yet, for it's not fun when you do get a fire caused by any means, for been there and done that with sudden fires of an unknown reason.

Seen a few DSM's in yards halfway burned up due to engine fires.
Noted.

In other news, still playing with the coolant temp sensor wiring. Crimped down one of the connections in the plug and it was good for a while but started acting funky again after I got on it. Wiggled it and noticed that the wires rest on one of the turbo coolant lines (not sure if that would be an issue but it could be a change in tension on the wires). I'll pick up some electrical tape and other wiring goodies tomorrow in case I have to ditch the factory connector.
 
That'll work. Just that I've done house wiring (where AC is the norm) where we have to watch the gauge size against the breaker size, but in vehicles were we are dealing with DC, is why the usage of the quick blow fuses and no slow-blo fuses allowed.
 
Car had a lean startup tonight, so I figured the CTS was on the fritz again since it was having trouble idling until it went into closed loop. I just find it odd that it starts lean rather than rich due to a CTS problem(when the problem occurs). Investigated wiring to CTS, peeled back the rubber covering the connector and found that part of the wire has a break in it. Figures. Pushed the two ends together so that something is always in contact and wrapped in heated electrical tape (nice and sticky) for now, will solder soon. Open to any additional suggestions.

Have not had time to mess with injector deadtimes yet, that will likely get pushed back until the weekend.
 
Investigated wiring to CTS, peeled back the rubber covering the connector and found that part of the wire has a break in it. Figures. Pushed the two ends together so that something is always in contact and wrapped in heated electrical tape (nice and sticky) for now, will solder soon. Open to any additional suggestions.

JNZ has the connector and terminals to do a proper repair.
 
It's there. Probably not on the website. But they have access to them, or will shortly.
 
Ok. Well the car barely started and a magical CEL appeared. Plugged in the laptop and whaddaya know, it's the sensor. I drove to work and my coolant temp was -74, I think it's a safe bet the sensor finally went.

Edit: called JNZ, will be ordering a new pigtail when they come in.
 
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Still messing with Inj deadtime, at 415 now and have a close to steady afr at idle on the stock VE table while maintaining .25g afpr. I'll update again as I decrease it (next couple days off from work, tinker time).

EDIT:
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Found that these are finally available again (as of a couple weeks ago I believe.
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_32_153_731&products_id=4075
 
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I 'm just curious on when shoving a much higher amp alternator on stock wiring that is designed for 70amp draw, aren't we a bit afraid of engine fires due to the lesser gauge wiring now being massive resistors when that high amp draw commences heating up that wire like a glow coil of sorts?

One would think that a total rewire with larger gauge wire would reduce this resistance factor ..
The amperage of an alternator is only the maximum it can ever put out when there is a dead short across it. The current draw of any circuit is determined by the voltage and resistance (I=V/R). V is 12-15 volts in cars. So resistance (R) is what really determines the current draw - not the maximum alt current rating. You could have a 20A alt burning up a 10A rated wire that has a short in it and causing a fire (because with a short you have 0 ohms resistance so the alt will put out it's maximum 20A through a 10A maximum rated wire). For that matter a "D" cell battery (1.5V) can start a fire with a small enough wire shorting across it.

The way fires are prevented is to make sure circuits use large enough wire for the maximum normal current draw there AND they are ALWAYS protected by a fuse that is not more than the wire's max current rating. If the wire's max current rating is 10A then a 10A fuse MUST be used on it (regardless of whether you have a 10A or 2000A alt).
 
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