Have you tried any of that yellow tape kind of like plumbers tape? I have heard that helps with bolt leaks.

The leak is seeping through the gasket not bolts holes.

DearDoger said:

The leak is seeping through the gasket not bolts holes.

Click to expand...

Get a new oil pan and some black rtv. Should be perfect.

Well I've already replaced my seemingly good oil pan. For another used seemingly good, not bent, or pryed on oil pan.
That I cleaned very well. With putty scrapper, wire brush, brake clean, towels ect.. Likewise on the block. An then applied a super thin bead of rtv on the felpro gasket to tack it to pan an block.

DearDoger said:

Well I've already replaced my seemingly good oil pan. For another used seemingly good, not bent, or pryed on oil pan.
That I cleaned very well. With putty scrapper, wire brush, brake clean, towels ect.. Likewise on the block. An then applied a super thin bead of rtv on the felpro gasket to tack it to pan an block.

Click to expand...

I had a problem similar to this I removed my balance shafts and used the cheap stub shaft on the oil pump changed it to the proper one with an oil groove and problem solved, this obviously only applies if you have removed your balance shafts

The balance shafts were removed at English racing, with the install of wiseco/Eagles. I assumed it would be done right, but worth looking at. check into bs removal I for that info I suppose?[DOUBLEPOST=1413964182][/DOUBLEPOST]I do have abnormally low oil pressure. I just read that can be related to improper balance shaft removal.

Definitely should have mentioned the low oil pressure earlier.

Check the front seal. If it's leaking it will drip down and make it look like the pan is leaking in that area.

These pans are designed for RTV only. There is no reason to need a gasket.

If, so far, you've used your existing old oil pan, plus another used oil pan. Why not just buck up the $62 for a new Spectra oil pan from advance/autozone ?

Use the "super grey" rtv by forming a 1/4" bead around the oil pan as shown in the fsm/haynes (hopefully you have one or both). If you don't, i can explain it as the bead goes in the groove, and when you reach a bolt hole it goes around the inside of the bolt hole.... Allow it to dry for about 15 minutes, OFF THE CAR. This makes a tacky/rubbery bead. Then you put the oil pan up to the block and snug the bolts down.

Also don't forget about the 2 shorter bolts on the timing side if it's a 1g (not sure if that applies to 2g).

Oil Pan: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/spectra-premium-oil-pan-crp14b/18080485-P?searchTerm=oil+pan

RTV: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ne-.5-oz-22074/99997948-P?searchTerm=grey+rtv

There was a debate on "gasket vs no gasket" here awhile back. Team no gasket seems to be in the vast majority. My machinist used plain ol gray rtv. Its the stuff thats made specifically for high temp and oil. You can find it at any parts store.

I agree with using the grey rtv. Works like a charm. I did the bead but at the bolt holes I went the entire way around each hole instead of like some people and just do the inside of the holes. I do not agree with letting the rtv skin over. This usually doesnt allow it to dry to both surfaces correctly and leaks. Best to lay the bead and install pan and snuck the bolts up. This is how I did mine and have no leaks and its how Ive seen many other do it in other threads. If you search you can find threads about using rtv and laying the bead and the whole no gasket vs gasket. If you think its from the bolts you could use a little thread tape to help seal them or some thread sealant.

Agreed with everybody, use only Grey RTV and no gasket, should fix your problem. As far as your low pressure after balance shaft removal I would look in to that also. Did they modify your oil pressure relief valve?? if they did that can be your drop in oil pressure you are seeing.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.319342/

I had a similar issue got a advacne auto oil pan gray rtv fixed broken bolts no more leaks.

Yup, dont let rtv harden up. At least thats my opinion.
Low oil pressure after a BS removal?? Thats really odd. Maybe the relief was ported too much? In that case unfortunately for you the answer would probably be just a new OFH and then port as necessary.
FWIW, this is why i recommend doing the REAR bs delete only. keep the front in(no belt attached of course!) and you will see no change in oil pressure. Thus negating the need for any porting or messing with the OFH in any way.
That said, if its a pure race car then that extra 5lbs of balance shaft up front might be unwanted.
This im sure is practically impossible but i should throw it out there: Possibly the front BS bearings were not "clocked" to block off the oil ports. That sure as hell would lead to some really low oil pressure. I doubt that happened but im just covering the bases.

I have an eternal oil leak from the front of the engine due to the balance shafts being removed, and using the stubby shaft. I never would have though that would have been the problem until I saw the damage it caused.

The timing belt pulls up on the oil pump pulley; that pressure, and with nothing to counter the pulling action (i.e. the shaft that goes through the block) caused the stubby shaft to be pulled up, and thus eat away at the aluminium front case housing. This then causes oil leaks. I got about 25,000 miles on the balance shaft removal before it started to leak REALLY bad... to the point where the car was not drive-able. I have since got a new front case, and also installed straight-cut gears. These gears seem to be able to take some of the side-load better than the helical ones. They can be a little noisier, but I haven't noticed. So far, it's been ok. But the car doesn't have that many miles on it since it was done.

My next engine for the car is going to get a "race" shaft put back in. I personally don't like to spend ~$300 a pop on new front cases for something that doesn't make *that* big of a difference IMO.

SrKegler said:

Check the front seal. If it's leaking it will drip down and make it look like the pan is leaking in that area.

Click to expand...

From what I see the front seal is dry, I'm almost positive it's the oil pan seal[DOUBLEPOST=1414010375][/DOUBLEPOST]

boost97gst said:

Yup, dont let rtv harden up. At least thats my opinion.
Low oil pressure after a BS removal?? Thats really odd. Maybe the relief was ported too much? In that case unfortunately for you the answer would probably be just a new OFH and then port as necessary.
FWIW, this is why i recommend doing the REAR bs delete only. keep the front in(no belt attached of course!) and you will see no change in oil pressure. Thus negating the need for any porting or messing with the OFH in any way.
That said, if its a pure race car then that extra 5lbs of balance shaft up front might be unwanted.
This im sure is practically impossible but i should throw it out there: Possibly the front BS bearings were not "clocked" to block off the oil ports. That sure as hell would lead to some really low oil pressure. I doubt that happened but im just covering the bases.

Click to expand...

I'm taking the pan back off right now will I be able to tell if I have the crappy stubby shaft and the bearings are rotated or do I need to take the front case off?

Something many people overlook is blowby. I've blown oil out of every gasket on my motor due to a lack of decent Pcv setup after 30+psi. Likely not your problem but just for future searches....

ervin00 said:

Agreed with everybody, use only Grey RTV and no gasket, should fix your problem. As far as your low pressure after balance shaft removal I would look in to that also. Did they modify your oil pressure relief valve?? if they did that can be your drop in oil pressure you are seeing.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.319342/

Click to expand...

I have a forward facing oil filter housing that has not been ported.[DOUBLEPOST=1414012889][/DOUBLEPOST]

boost97gst said:

Yup, dont let rtv harden up. At least thats my opinion.
Low oil pressure after a BS removal?? Thats really odd. Maybe the relief was ported too much? In that case unfortunately for you the answer would probably be just a new OFH and then port as necessary.
FWIW, this is why i recommend doing the REAR bs delete only. keep the front in(no belt attached of course!) and you will see no change in oil pressure. Thus negating the need for any porting or messing with the OFH in any way.
That said, if its a pure race car then that extra 5lbs of balance shaft up front might be unwanted.
This im sure is practically impossible but i should throw it out there: Possibly the front BS bearings were not "clocked" to block off the oil ports. That sure as hell would lead to some really low oil pressure. I doubt that happened but im just covering the bases.

Click to expand...

The front shaft was left in place, with no belt of course. An the back shaft has a stub in it, I don't see any obvious oil groove in it.