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picking a turbo

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jzamerican

Probationary Member
21
1
Oct 12, 2014
Davenport, Florida
hey guys. so since i can't pst in the tech sections yet i have to post here. what do you guys think for turbo sizing on these 4g63's? my 1995 talon tai didn't come wight the factory manifold or turbo and i have no clue what comes stock. I'm new to dsm's but i have a tt mk3 supra so i know cars pretty well. i have a borg warner s256 that i have for my supra for when i go single but i was wondering if it would fit better on these cars? it has a .63 or .68 ar? (i bought it a while ago so i forgot) 3 inch v band exhaust, t3 footprint, and 4 inch antisurge agp compressor housing.
 
if you bought the car not running, start from the beginning, find a 2g/evo3 manifold, find a 16g or something, and get the car running to be able to perform maintenance. then start your upgrade path.
 
The turbo would fit once you got the right manifold and down pipe.... but i do agree with the guy above if you just got the car and its not running find all the stock parts to get the vehicle running.
 
T25 comes stock. 14b/16g is a good alternative. To run that turbo within its full potential Your car would have to have (at the least) bigger injectors/ fuel pump and some sort of fuel management system like dsmlink or equivalent.

What upgrades does the car currently have?
 
The engine is completely apart. So it's getting rebuilt will all new stuff. So not much maintence to do LOL
And the car is lowered, has glow shift gauges which will be thrown away. Looks like aftermarket ic piping to a small side mount ic. Ecu has been fooled with since the security tape is cut and the ecu is missing 1 screw. btw is this a stock intake?
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Yes that's a stock manifold with a 1g smaller tb elbow, motor looks to already have head studs and be a 6 bolt based on the main caps.
 
Yes it is! I was surprised when I saw that as well when I picked it up. One if the pistons have a little scaring in the skirt so I'mprobably going to get new pistons and rods to be safe. I don't know how forgiving these 4g63's are
 
Forged pistons ? I wouldn't consider it an issuer of being forgiving Rather then if you're already torn it apart this far why chance it.
 
Exactly my thought. With my supra I always told myself do it right. Do it once
 
Je aren't bad, lot of people run wiseco hd, cp pistons or arias. If you got the money J.A.M sells venoila pistons that are quality. Plus they are a vendor and really know these engines. Rods well again a lot run eagle (wiseco/eagle rods) but manely turbo tuff and pauter are good carillo higher end. That being said ostar motorsports but down 750+'awhp and 9.8xx pass on stock bottom end so imho accurate machining and blue printing plus solid tune is key.
 
well here are my pistons. I'm sketched out by the scratches on the skirts. what do you guys think?
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[DOUBLEPOST=1414360825][/DOUBLEPOST]yup so i need new pistons and rods indefinitely. no chance of saving them. i finally took a good look and idk how i missed this the first time. i just hope the block is ok. the piston squirter in cylinder 1 is broken.... this needs to go get checked out asap LOL
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Man O man, those pics tell a story! I doubt you will get away with an easy honing job. The side skirts on those pistons look as though they rubbed nicely against the journal wall and had a lot of heat to them. Good luck with this one my friend. You can get new oil squirters from JNZ tuning for fairly cheap $12 a piece I believe. Be sure to replace both crush washers as you do the job!
 
Im curious to see how the cylinders look, but I'm already betting you'll need to bore the block up a size. So unfortunately it's time for a full rebuild.

If you want to build the engine yourself, your going to need a good machinist. Be sure to get the crank inspected and cut/polished if needed. For piston/rod combo, I would suggest Eagle H-beam rods with Manley pistons.
 
Before we go recommending things, how about some insight into your budget and goals for the car?

FWIW, I ran a 59mm S200sx on my previous 1G. Big fan of that snail. But it's not necessarily right for what you're after.
 
Yea it was going to get rebuilt the whole time. I just now have a reason to justify it. The cylinder walls are fine In the firstthree but the fourth has a little scuffing that I can just catch with my finger nail. And for plans for the car. Not sure. I got it for my fiancé so I wabt it reliable so she can drive it without worrying and a little more power. In the 300's would be good. And I have that turbo hanging around for my supra but I thought would be better for this car
 
I think you need to figure out you budget first. I'm considering just getting a used complete motor from japan. They have less then 40,000 miles on them and I've seen them as cheap as 1500 bucks
 
Grabbing up a jdm engine might be a good start but I wouldn't rely on that 40k that the importers say. They won't have any proof of mileage and rules in Japan have nothing to do with mileage so all the importers do is guess. It's all about age of the car and damage. The older a car is over there the more often it has to be inspected and the more likely an owner will scrap the car.
Back to topic I think the op has a good start for a build. Check out that block and consider the cost of machining it then figure out what you can spend.
 
A 56mm turbo is complete overkill for 300whp, but as you'll find, most "outgrow" 300whp fairly soon after hitting that target. So building around supporting the S200 may be a good idea in the long run.

I just instinctively cringe when I hear jdm engine now.

Seriously.. just grab some ACL bearings, ARP hardware, an NPR OE rebuild kit, gasket set, and a new OE oil pump.. that is literally all I used in terms of hardware for my short block. Do your own prep. What you can't do, make an itemized list and check out our vendors section for a Machinist. I'm inclined to recommend Bogus (Dale).

Whoever you choose, your going to want someone familiar with the platform. Have them hot tank, flush/ream the galleys, pop in some new freeze plugs/oil squirters, etc.

I have beat on this setup now since 2008. Between the 59mm Borg @ 38psi, and the 67mm Holset @ 31psi on the car now, both setups getting spun to 9250rpm regularly.. still have yet to actually break anything.

There's a lot to be said for details, like tolerances, but those are application specific and should be discussed with the machinist.
 
Exactly "blue printing"a motor can allow you more power and more run time. And I'm gonna be doing the same kind of setup as land speed to shut the haters up around here about my beloved dsm. You def need a plan of attack though.
 
Thanks guys. And jdm motors aren't new. I have a 1jz in my supra. And I live close to a few local importers. And I never said a budget because there really isn't one. If it takes 2 years to get running so be it. I'm not a fan of doing things twice. I'd rather over build now then have to tear it apart again in the future. I do need a machine shop No matter what. But like so done said I want some one who knows what there dokg because I had a shop screw up a 2jzgte block I have.
 
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