Okay, so here's what I got:

New ECU, same symptoms.

MAF sensor unplugged, nothing.

The MPI relay started clicking rapidly, then all of a sudden my dash CEL lights up and boost gauge move to 0 (hasn't done either before; relay obv not working right but hey, it's fully working now so..)

I go to start it, it fires a few times and goes back to cranking. I pull a plug, verified spark and fuel is abundant in the cylinders.

So now I have spark, fuel, and air... all that's left is timing I suppose? CAS was (again) installed correctly and obviously working since I have fuel and spark now.

For ignition timing http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm

For mechanical timing



I embedded the video for convenience, might or might not help but it's good to know.

Temp sensor has a lot to with bad starts. When that unit acts up, it messes with the ECU on a number of things including hard starts being the results.

Did you pull codes from the ECU to see if a sensor is grumpy or dead on you?

Please don't be unplugging sensors while key on, or motor running for that raises hell with the sensor drivers on the ECU momboard - like it doesn't take but less than 2 amps DC to knock out a driver-which are the long black items on the ECU momboard.

Also, no one mentioned to check the power module (transistor), for one side of the transistor could be going bad causing serious misfiring.

good luck -DSM

I tested the CTS (not the AC fan switch) and it measured ~2.5k ohms and 5v so that's fine.

Car isn't starting but to grab voltage the key has to be on anyway, otherwise the ecu won't be on.

I tried to pull the codes from the ecu via multimeter but I think I'm gonna stop at radioshack and get me a 12v sound clip to plug in. The multimeter kept going between 7-12 volts continuously so I'm afraid the ecu might be fried (even tho it was "working" when it was shipped). I'm used to the CEL flashing for the codes, so the noise maker is quite odd to me.

Since, I can't edit my previous post, update:

I got a 12v speaker from radioshack and confirmed what I had dreaded, the constant buzz from the diag port. Contacted the seller and he's sending me another ECU and MPI relay. I know my first ECU is 100% gone because there is no CEL light nor boost needle movement; this one shows me boost, RPM and CEL + I'm getting injector grounding (along with spark, CTS signal, etc), so I know the harness is fine (I hope). I'll update again when I get my hands on it.

97 Eclipse GST w/ Auto Trans.

Hello all. The other day my car randomly wouldn't crank when attempting to start- When I attempt to start all I hear is the fuel pump kick in, the starter solenoid click a little. Everything seems to have full power, tried jumping it a couple times. It's also throwing a bunch of random codes P0141, P0346.
Sometimes if I'd leave it for a couple of hours and come back and it would start repeatedly. It seems as soon as the engine warmed up it would stop wanting to start.
The engine has recently been rebuilt (top and bottom) and so I figured I'd start with a loose connection.
Check continuity to all the connections to the starter and they're good.
I tried jumping it but no difference was made.
Battery voltage reads 12.7. When i attempt to start it drops to 12.3

I took the starter out and brought it to autozone to have them test it. They said it tested okay but mentioned that it could be dragging? (Does that mean that it could actually be a bad starter? Is that something cannot test for?)
**Note** When i took the starter out and put it back in it cranked over.

Queue sob story- I'm a student, live on my own, and work at a restaurant, so funds are slim. This is my 2nd 2g DSM and I hold both dearly to my heart.

I'm not sure I'm on the right track but it leads me to believe its the ECM or Starter?

I'd love to buy a new starter and put it in but i'd be absolutely financially shattered if that wasnt the cause.

(**Note** I'm not sure if this helps but for a while now i've had the CEL on for, forgive me i cant remember the code, the Idle Air Control Valve, which i replaced but code CEL still stayed on).
Plz help guys.<3

Is it an auto or 5 speed? Did the clutch switch get bumped?

Does it just crank? Did one of the plugs pop off for the cas?

Are your spark plug wires all hooked up in the right order? If they're wrong (or if your cam sensor isnt working right) your car will try to fire on the exhaust stroke instead of the intake stroke. So the car will fire, but not run when that happens. Pull a plug wire and see if you're getting ignition. If you are, then crank a bit, pull a spark plug and see if you can smell any fuel. Typically something like you're describing is a sensor coming unplugged somewhere.

well to start, P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2), and P0346 Camshaft Position Sensor A - Bank 2 CKT Range/Perf. If your starter is good, battery is good, you have continuity with low resistance on all circuits, more than likley its the camshaft position sensor. The ECM cant Detect where the camshaft is in correlation to the crankshaft, therefore somtimes not firing properly. that would explain why when the motor is hot, it dosent want to start because the sensor malfunctions at high temps. i would start by replacing the cam positon sensor.

hope that helps, keep me posted on how it turns out!

@Boostedx11 It is an Automatic

@forcefed95gs Thats the same sensor connected to the valve cover on the passanger side correct? If so I noticed oil in it and I know it's fairly new (within a year). Also if it was the sensor wouldn't it least try and crank but not start??

Thanks guys

@iugrad92turbo I've checked that link, and have religiously searched the forums.....

"I – Does the car NOT crank, or crank slowly?"
1. -No loose connections, terminals are clean, it doesn't crank slowly it either CRANKS or DOES NOT CRANK. It's NOT like keep turning the key and it'll eventually crank. It just wont. 1
2. -Battery fully charged at 12.7 volts.
3. -Car senses that its in neutral/park due to me hearing the starter solenoid click in.
4. -Relays I guess I haven't really checked because as a electronics major the possibility of that being the fault is unlikely, ALTHOUGH, i will check that out immediately when I get back from work tonight.
6. Timing belt is brand new and still looks brand new. only 5k miles on it. If I jumped timing (which i have a couple years ago due to a faulty belt tensioner) it wouldn't start sometimes and run fine.


**NOTE** WHEN IT DOES CRANK IT STARTS UP FIRST CRANK No problems.

How is the ecu, is it for sure good, sounds like the culprit is there.

Sounds like the ignition switch to me. My old talon would only crank if you turned the key with just the right pressure/angle. Otherwise, it'd do nothing. I never bothered replacing it because it just more or less made my car impossible to drive unless you knew how to turn the key right.

bmxfelon420 said:

Sounds like the ignition switch to me. My old talon would only crank if you turned the key with just the right pressure/angle. Otherwise, it'd do nothing. I never bothered replacing it because it just more or less made my car impossible to drive unless you knew how to turn the key right.

Click to expand...

That actually seems semi-likely, I'll fudge around with angles and pressure tonight![DOUBLEPOST=1412299472][/DOUBLEPOST]

iugrad92turbo said:

How is the ecu, is it for sure good, sounds like the culprit is there.

Click to expand...

Have no idea the condition of the ecu. Its behind the stereo correct? Also how do I tell if its bad, just pop it open and visually inspect for corrosion/bad caps? Any points for resistance I can check?
Thanks!

William000 said:

That actually seems semi-likely, I'll fudge around with angles and pressure tonight![DOUBLEPOST=1412299472][/DOUBLEPOST]
Have no idea the condition of the ecu. Its behind the stereo correct? Also how do I tell if its bad, just pop it open and visually inspect for corrosion/bad caps? Any points for resistance I can check?
Thanks!

Click to expand...

For the ecu take off the side panels of the center console and it should have bolts that hold it in. When out take the cover off and look for blown/leaking capacitors, burn marks, corrosion, or bad drivers (long black things sticking up that usually look burnt/melted when bad.)

Those are the obvious things to look for. It still may be bad without visual damage but that's rare for an ECU

Today is my day off so I'm working diligently on my dsm and I was about to take the ecu out to inspect it when I thought of a decent idea-
@bmxfelon420
I jacked the car up, put it in the 'On' position then crawled underneath and touched the positive and negative terminals on the starter. It sparked a couple times with nothing happening and after about the 5th spark went 'WHIZZZZ' (which kinda spooked me).
***I then got out from underneath the car and attempted to start it regularly, and it started no problem.***
How come it didn't start went it went 'whized'? Is the solenoid only engaged when key is turned fully?

What does this tell me?

(I'm continuing to take the ecu out at the moment)[DOUBLEPOST=1412370016][/DOUBLEPOST]**update** I tried the "hotwire" method again (going under the car and touching the terminals on the starter together) and this time it just went 'clung'- like the starter tried to crank it but it wouldn't budge. Tried it several times and same thing...

in that case either the starter or starter solenoid are suspect

Changed starter and we're golden now, starts up everytime.... Still weird that that p0141 code is still there, the O2 sensor is probably due to be changed anyways. From what I was reading the O2 sensor has a 'built-in' heater that seems to have failed. So replacing O2 sensor replaces the heater too correct??

@bmxfelon420 Thanks for being awesome!

William000 said:

Changed starter and we're golden now, starts up everytime.... Still weird that that p0141 code is still there, the O2 sensor is probably due to be changed anyways. From what I was reading the O2 sensor has a 'built-in' heater that seems to have failed. So replacing O2 sensor replaces the heater too correct??

@bmxfelon420 Thanks for being awesome!

Click to expand...

No problem! Yeah the O2 has a circuit in it that heats it up to temperature. If that goes out, your car will run terribly until the sensor warms up. That is included in the sensor itself so replacing it would fix you right up unless there's a wiring issue causing the issue. 95% of the time it's just the sensor though.

Oh and make SURE you get the right sensor. Parts store people are idiots and like to give you the wrong stuff. Memorize what the plug looks like and look at it before you leave the store.

Also, you have two options when removing the o2 sensor. You can either:

- Buy an o2 sensor socket with a cutout for the wire and use that to remove it. The only problem is they're a lot weaker than a regular socket. What you can do is get some beefy hose clamps and put them around the outside once it's on the sensor. Crank them down as tight as you can, and then try to take it out. Make sure they're beefy clamps.

OR

- Cut the wire off of the old one and use a regular deepwell socket of that size. This works awesome if you dont plan on reusing the old sensor for anything. I did this and used a really big long ratchet to get the one out of my Talon.

Either way will work, if you know for sure you have the right sensor and everything the cutting method is the easiest. You dont need the o2 socket to put the new sensor on, you can just use a wrench. I'd put high temp antisieze on it to make it less of a pain in the ass next time.

When I removed my o2 sensor the other day it was really easy with the o2 socket I bought at autozone. I suggest jacking the car up and taking the o2 out from underneath the car. Way more room to move my breaker bar.

awesome said:

When I removed my o2 sensor the other day it was really easy with the o2 socket I bought at autozone. I suggest jacking the car up and taking the o2 out from underneath the car. Way more room to move my breaker bar.

Click to expand...

They can work well as long as your car isnt old/neglected, mine was stuck in there pretty good and took a 5ft breaker bar with an impact socket to get off. If you feel the socket start to flex on you, put the hoseclamps over it. They can just snap if you arent careful with that.

awesome said:

When I removed my o2 sensor the other day it was really easy with the o2 socket I bought at autozone. I suggest jacking the car up and taking the o2 out from underneath the car. Way more room to move my breaker bar.

Click to expand...

How much is that socket? Im putting in a new o2 sensor tomorrow. I figure its due for a new one.

Ok so i've just finished installing a full 6 bolt swap in my 96 talon, but all she will does is crank and not start. Im using a blacktop cas with a rre harness adapter. I've swapped plug wires around on the coil pack and injector clips as I've read you have to do so for these swaps. My issue is I've done this and still cranks and no start i have compression,fuel,and spark but it still wont fire up. I drove the car the motor came out of so i know timing is on right because it ran smooth in its last car. hopefully someone can shed some light onto what im not seeing or maybe forgetting to do??