(Video)engine knock or lifter sound

Agll30 · Sep 18, 2014

Hi, I have 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST with 128k miles with new timing belt job and water pump. I changed the oil yesterday in the morning and then later took it out for a spin, when all of a sudden the car died and I tried to start it but it wouldn't start. It cranked over but didn't start until the 4th try. When i started the car, i heard this weird tapping sound like if it was a noisy lifter. But it sounds more like a rod knock or something banging in cylinder 3. I tried revving it a little and the knocking sound got louder and quicker, so I quickly turned it off and got it towed home, because i was afraid to damage it further. I plugged in my ob2 scanner and the code P1105 popped up, which means the fuel pressure solenoid is malfunctioning. The car was dying before and started back up before i changed the oil. I was reading online since my blitz bov is venting, that it could be the reason it's dying and running rich. I'm still waiting on the 1g bov i bought off the forums, and I'm going to recirculate it. I used Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic oil extended performance and made sure the oil was at level. I plan to do a compression test today after it stops raining. What do you guys think? I have added a video with the same noise i have.

bryanwheat · Sep 28, 2014

Agll30 said:
I couldn't find a part number but here's a link. http://www.toolsource.com/dohc-hydra...r-p-93449.html
I have tried prying against the head but it won't even move up,my fingers are numb from fumbling with the rockers.. I will try at a different angle tomorrow. Here's how it looks now.

Go to vfaq.com and click on engine. Than scroll down until you see lifter cleaning/replacement. Look at the pics and see the angle and how it shows to pry, that has always worked good for me on all 16 of them.

miliman13 · Sep 28, 2014

Did I miss something? Op why are you delaying the inevitable? Lifters aren't going to solve the sound of metal to metal vibrating.

Agll30 · Sep 28, 2014

bryanwheat said:
Go to vfaq.com and click on engine. Than scroll down until you see lifter cleaning/replacement. Look at the pics and see the angle and how it shows to pry, that has always worked good for me on all 16 of them.

I got the car running after lifter install and it quieted down a little bit. But the sound is still there. It quiets down under load around 2k and idle it taps like mad. I'm loosing oil pressure as well. What do you guys suggest? I'm pretty certain I need a engine rebuild..

miliman13 said:
Did I miss something? Op why are you delaying the inevitable? Lifters aren't going to solve the sound of metal to metal vibrating.

you're right, unfortunately it didn't stop, it got worst. What do you suggest I do? Wrist pin failure?

miliman13 · Sep 28, 2014

I know you were just being hopeful, i too am guilty of it that's why i stressed that you just face it head on, and tear down; learn, witness first had and then you can tell us exactly what went wrong, then you can rebuild with confidence.[DOUBLEPOST=1411944849][/DOUBLEPOST]we help those, who help themselves, i've learned the ways of the site a.k.a "the double edge sword."

Agll30 · Sep 28, 2014

miliman13 said:
I know you were just being hopeful, i too am guilty of it that's why i stressed that you just face it head on, and tear down; learn, witness first had and then you can tell us exactly what went wrong, then you can rebuild with confidence.[DOUBLEPOST=1411944849][/DOUBLEPOST]we help those, who help themselves, i've learned the ways of the site a.k.a "the double edge sword."

Thanks for being understanding man. I'm a student in college and have limited time/money so I was hoping it Would work but oh well. Do you recommend a used engine or a rebuild? I want do a leak down test before tearing it apart but I don't have a compressor.. I want to rebuild but I need car for college/work. What do you suggest?

miliman13 · Sep 28, 2014

I suggest, finding another long block, (junker)disassembling that, drop it of at machined shop rebuild and in one swoop you can pull out the old one out, and put in the new one "rebuilt". this way you always have a back up engine, if you decide to build the damaged one.
i would not recommend just throwing an unknown engine in there and hope for the best, you already know that don't work.
I too am in school i know its not easy but these cars aint easy, and are not for those who want an easy life.[DOUBLEPOST=1411945544][/DOUBLEPOST]and harbor freight is your friend.

Agll30 · Sep 28, 2014

Alright should I get a used 7 bolt or 6 bolt with 2g pistons for better compression ratio or just a stock one? Also is the cylinder I have on trash or can it be saved? Thanks for advice. I knew dsm were going to be rough but they are fun and good learning experience. I will build it right. So maybe this is a good thing. @miliman13

bryanwheat · Sep 28, 2014

I would drop the pan and find out what the problem is first. You said that you had transmission work done, so it is still possible that the flywheel bolts are just loose. I would diagnose the problem before buying anything. If you have a spun bearing i wouldn't but another engine, i would just rebuild the one that you have back to stock with some arp rod and head studs.

Agll30 · Sep 28, 2014

bryanwheat said:
I would drop the pan and find out what the problem is first. You said that you had transmission work done, so it is still possible that the flywheel bolts are just loose. I would diagnose the problem before buying anything. If you have a spun bearing i wouldn't but another engine, i would just rebuild the one that you have back to stock with some arp rod and head studs.

Yeah that would be a good idea first before dismantling it. I'm going to try dropping the oil pan tomorrow after school. What should i check for in the bottom end? Or should i take the car to the shop where i had the transmission work done?

bryanwheat · Sep 28, 2014

You will be looking for play in the rods on the crank, and also pieces of metal in the bottom of the pan.

Agll30 · Sep 28, 2014

bryanwheat said:
You will be looking for play in the rods on the crank, and also pieces of metal in the bottom of the pan.

Okay i'll take it down tomorrow and i'll let you guys know.. I'll also post pictures as well. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, its a learning process.

Agll30 · Oct 1, 2014

Alright so I haven't space in the garage and it's raining to check the oil pan but now it's blowing white smoke. I hear the sound coming from where the pistons are. My guess is piston slap. Maybe that's why I got low compression on cylinder 2 and 3. I'm still going to take oil pan off to inspect.

Agll30 · Oct 3, 2014

Rod knock confirmed. Gonna get my engin rebuilt. Should I get a 6 bolt? Or keep the 7 bolt?

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