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1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

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9/11/04:
Machine shop called and said he measured the bores at ~85.559. I really want to keep this block, since its the car's original block, and since I'll be street use, I think I'll be ok doing .040 over. Waiting for another call back from the shop to see if he thinks a true 86mm bore is feasible due to the bore tapers, etc.
 
Where did you find the new front hub assemblies? Or did you rebuild your originals?
 
Sub'd, awesome work my man. It's amazing what that HF sandblaster can do. Do you plan on painting the wheel wells? A couple coats of black in there might give it a nice subtle clean look.
 
Nate,
Yea they'll come later when I can get the car rolling and over to my buddy's shop up on the lift. I'll be doing some quick spot sanding of the unibody, and I figure I'll undercoat the whole unibody, including the wheel wells for a nice black durable finish underneath. That will be one of the very last things to be done, aside from interior alterations.

9/13/14:
Found some Wiseco 1400HD pistons .040 over so they're on their way, ARP main studs came in, ordered kiggly main girdle as well. Started cleaning up the front subframe crossmember:
3YezpY9l.jpg


Cleaned it with the mineral spirits then hit the rusty spots with the wire wheel while priming previously worked on areas to alleviate any flash rust:
cC546Kml.jpg


Fully primed and then sanded with ~400 grit sponge:
YnWe8K1l.jpg


Got a few more cans of the duplicolor black caliper paint and hit up the crossmember and my front spindles (also did my rear engine mount arm, not pictured):
RayMFHEl.jpg


Popped in the poly bushings I found in my shed from who knows how long ago, and pressed the hubs back into the spindles:
r0dp8nCl.jpg


I screwed up the other hub, so I have to order a new inner seal for it this week, then that'll be done.

Next up, remove the engine wiring harness and clean the engine bay!
 
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9/14/14:
Earlier this week I ripped out the dash, wife helped me and it took about 1 hour start to finish:
mr9jr1Sl.jpg


I followed one of the how-to's on here or dsmtalk, i forget, but the pictures from the how-to were long gone, so I had to guess at a couple bolts and screws here or there, luckily when it came down to pulling the dash out, I had only missed 1 screw I had to unfasten. After the dash it out, and you want to do a wire tuck, this is a great time to do it. The wire harness from this car is a little chopped up, because when the previous owner had it, when he installed the s-afc and maf-t, etc, this was before there were plug-n-play harnesses, so he hard wired everything. This means I have some soldering to do since I'll be doing DSMLink v3 with speed density.

So If you want to consolidate a bunch of projects on your list, taking out the dash is only an hour, and then removing the blower fan box and evaporator coil box is only another 15 minutes or so...
hulu22Fl.jpg


Unfasten all the 10mm bolts along the firewall, unhook all the connectors/grounds, there's a couple phillips-head screw-down tabs under the floormat and near the shifter cables, and she pulls thru pretty easily into the engine bay...
lHQYL4yl.jpg


This week will be engine bay cleaning! Who knows what else...huehuehue
 
A pic from sunday, and while I was taking all this wire loom and tape off the ecu harness, I was wondering, is the poor guy/gal that sat in the factory all day and just taped these looms together still alive ? I mean, this is what that ONE PERSON did, ALL DAY EVERY DAY. Just tape wires together....and would they be mad that, 22 years later, I ripped it all apart ?
PdzrAiml.jpg


The other day I saw someone had their woman in the engine bay cleaning, so I wanted to duplicate that, LOL:
3K9fj8Il.jpg


1400HD 40-over's came in, kiggly girdle is in, and some other stuff is here and/or on the way. But now that the girdle/pistons/main studs are in, I can drop that off to the machine shop so they can bore the cylinders and align-hone the mains:
L4JUuHal.jpg


And if you want to clean up plastic parts, even the no-name metal soap pads (like brillo pads) work like a charm, 22 years old and 222k miles of oil and grease, t-belt chunks, and whatever else came off nicely:

Say8oSll.jpg
 
9/22/14:
Not too much went on this past weekend. Friday took off work and dropped the pistons/girdle/main rods off at the machine shop. Then spent saturday in cape may/wildwood running my dad's 1962 powertop corvette thru the wildwood classic car auction:
J4qEcqUl.jpg


Only got up to $50k, it's more like entertainment than actually trying to sell the thing.

So anyway, got the headliner out and scrubbed off all the old foam:
4UBJQPvl.jpg


Arc-2 setup with mitsu wiring harness came in:
6IeD7V0l.jpg


And engine bay cleaning some more tonight, with the lightspot near the driver's side engine mount being a test-spot for a little brush on rustoleum primer after I hit the weld with some wire brush action:
tBTrkWsl.jpg


I ordered a "pen" and a 2oz brush bottle of the touch-up paint for the car, which should have come today but we missed the mail man. I'm not convinced I want to keep the engine bay the Tennessee Blue, but then there'd be even more work to take the rest of the crap out and paint it some other color.
 
9/23: More engine bay prep, wire brushed all around the welds for the engine mount, plus a couple bolt holes that had rusted and the paint was bubbling around them:
72zv8WBl.jpg


Hit Home Depot today for some Plasti-Dip in black, which is only $6 a can there, so I grabbed 3 cans. Never used this stuff before, and I figured that if I didn't like the results, I could just peel it off. But at least there'd be some sort of coat over the primer above.

The way I taped it off, kind of makes the unibody look like it has a frame rail, like a classic car (tell me the 1g isn't a classic LOL )

So here's how it looks after 3 coats of plasti-dip:
dJ6GXY1l.jpg


Yay or Nay ? What do you guys think ?
 
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No, the rest of the bay isn't terrible, I'd like to keep it as original as possible without having to spray whole areas with Tennessee Blue, so I thought this could give it a sort of classic look, like it was a framed car and not a unibody.

That front lower rad support being black wasn't from me, it was like that when I got it. Not sure if that's supposed to be the blue or if it was repainted or what... doesn't appear to have any previously fixed damage from a front end hit or anything, plus that black lower half looks like its original. Beats me on that one, but it'll be covered up by radiator, condenser, and fmic anyway.
 
9/24:
Taped off and prepped the passenger "frame rail":
tVEiDLWl.jpg


Here's the finished product:
6umQnaVl.jpg


And in preparation for doing stuff this weekend, I drilled out the rubber from the stock 3 motor mounts (plan on doing the tubular 3-piece kit which comes with a new front bushing). Just have to sawzall out the pressed-in ring, sandblast and paint all of them, then install the new poly bushings I've had for like a year now.
YiJTHr5l.jpg


Also have my to-do pile over here, soldering the wires on the ecu harness back up, full disassembly of the driveshaft and all new joints, etc...
p4TB2HLl.jpg


Transmission, probably original 222k mile trans, maybe it'll take a trip to TRE?
 
9/27:
Don't ask, LOL:
OhRT8JEl.jpg


Got the pedal assembly out for inspection, the clutch plate isn't bad, almost looks like new. But it turns out I was about to order the new bushings for the pedal assembly and new plate, and for some reason, I happen to have these parts (Except the new brass bushing for the clutch pedal), in a DHL box from Josh from I don't know how long ago:
bR6wwjyl.jpg


Everyone on the internet is right, its not a project you want to do again!

So on to the actual work I had planned for myself, which was get all 3 motor mount sleeves out, as well as rebuild the driver's front half-shaft "carrier" bearing/seals. Let's start with the mounts:
Since I drilled out the rubber the other night, just had to sawzall a slit in the sleeve:
JtPoa72l.jpg


Then grab a hammer and chisel and work the sleeve out:
JjR4etFl.jpg


** Important note on these, the first one I tried, I cut the sleeve in 2 places, and punched out the smaller piece, then the bigger piece just fell out. I decided to try it with just 1 cut on the 2nd sleeve, which also worked. Had to do a little more work with the hammer/chisel, but less work sawing. The 3rd one, I didn't even saw all the way thru the sleeve, and decided to work it out even tho it didn't have a slit. So you can get these sleeves out with just a hammer and chisel.

After doing all 3 (2 sides and rear, since I'll be ordering the Kbar 3pc kit) wire brushed/sandblasted and a coat of primer:
VEpuHBrl.jpg


Finished product:
Kx2JCZxl.jpg


Turns out I'm an idiot. And that one on top there, with the bolt in it, is the FRONT. I pressed the rear poly bushing into it, but at least it's a 2 piece bushing and I'll figure out how to get it out so it can go in the correct place.

--Also disassembled the half-shaft, wire-wheeled it with the grooves, and repainted it with the caliper paint, came out really nice. Did the same with the axle-half of it too:
isuAlNyl.jpg


Oh yea, also used a can of the dupli-color black fabric paint and touched up the firewall insulator:
gVUFCegl.jpg


Obviously it looks better in person, and hopefully it'll look real nice in the cleaned up engine bay.

Here are the parts I found, so it looks like I have everything but the upgraded Brass bushing:
QnZ8IN4l.jpg
 
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9/30:
Cleaned up the rest of the firewall that was behind the insulator:
Zf9SmSnl.jpg


Threw the insulator on to see how she looks:
YzNZ7sAl.jpg


And this came in, apparently the last known 1g timing cover gasket in the US, which I found at Quality Mitsu in Colorado:
hPVJ3bDl.jpg


Also ordered 1 of 3 known US dust seals for the front driver's side half-shaft carrier, so I can finish and re-assemble my front driver's axle. Passenger side boots are toast, so I'll just get a new axle for that side. (RE this link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/aw...er-seal-out-sourcing-s.429386/#post-153466922)
 
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10/3: Currently working on this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/aw...er-seal-out-sourcing-s.429386/#post-153467483

And I'll clean up the nuts/studs/fasteners for the main front subframe and get that installed. Been throwing around what to do with steering, de-power my rack, or leave power steering in just without the cooler loop.... still havent' decided.

Up this weekend, sandblasting/paiting fo various parts... off the top of my head, shifter assembly, brake fluid bracket, pulley mounts on the block, whatever else I have time for. Also have to un-install that poly motor mount I put in the wrong bracket, duh.[DOUBLEPOST=1412386552][/DOUBLEPOST]10/4: installed front subframe! torqued her down to 90ft-lbs and she's sitting in there nice.
NSS77Wsl.jpg


Unrelated, I want to figure out a way to use the OEM dash speaker, only as a mount for an aftermarket tweeter. So I cut out the speaker internals, and I can't really tell how the magnet is attached to the basket. I'll tinker with it more tomorrow:
omAbqYel.jpg


This would be perfect for an aftermarket speaker mount, instead of having to make something. Figure I'll do a component set, so the woofer in the door, and the tweeter in the dash.
 
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