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2G Running really rich and No power

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Pablobtown

Proven Member
108
3
Sep 16, 2013
Bloomington, Indiana
So I have been trying to tackle this issue for well over 6 months now... But it recently has gotten so bad I almost don't want to drive the car anymore. I have taken it to my mechanic (who used to be the master mechanic at a Mitsubishi dealership until recently. He knows these things inside and out too well), anyway I had him replace all of my intake gaskets and injector seals and whatnot. Numerous BLTs done and it is absolutely positively not leaking anywhere. But my main problem still exists. It has gotten a lot better since he worked on it. But I am still running very rich into boost, and the car gives up every drop of power its got in it. But only occasionally now. I'd say 70% of the time its perfectly fine. AFR is perfect most the time. But from 12-17 psi my AEM UEGO is reading 10-10.1. Both me and my mechanic are at a lost as to what to do next. I'm 17 with no job so I really hate to start throwing parts at it, and I am currently saving for ECMLink. I am going to replace my Bosche o2 with my old stock one tomorrow to see if that fixes things. Any ideas??? Im completely lost. :confused:
 
what about the firing if its not burning it off in the cylinders what kind of plugs are u using and what is your voltage to the wires might be getting low voltage to 1 plug and that might be where your getting your rich burn at just a thought.
 
hmm well if voltage and ignition fine on them and fuel pressure is constant then its got me on why it would be running rich especialy if u have a FPR and stuff. well if u figure it out let me know LOL
 
Bad base ignition timing? Something to at least look look at. I do belive base idle is 5 degrees before top dead sensor. Could be a ecu issue? Blow capacitors in the ecu posibbly. I would just start by testing sensors that control fuel delivery
 
dsm199994 might be right....I just finished a mini rebuild on my 90 talon, went thru everything, ignition, wires, fuel delivery, MAS, boost leak test, ect.....finally pulled the ECM out, checked the board, had a few blown capacitors. Picked up some new capacitors (CHEAP!!!!), had my brother get the old ones out, cleaned the board, and soddered them back in and magic....she roared to life and is running lean and mean. Could be an easy cheap fix if you know what to look for and know someone who has some old school geek skills of working of computer boards.
 
Dont forget to let us know when you find out what the problem is. I am having almost identical problems and it is driving me nuts. I think it could be one thing and get excited to replace a part, only to be let down once again.
 
I'll check the caps today, I probably have a few identical caps laying around somewhere, if not, super cheap to buy some. May just replace them whether they're bad or not. Good idea haven't thought of that one yet. I'll keep everyone updated if I find out anything. Thanks guys.[DOUBLEPOST=1412111606][/DOUBLEPOST]All capacitors are fine. The board has a little bit of bubbling but that just the protective coating I've been told. It seems to be all be fine...Which I guess is a good thing. :thumb: So what else is going through all you peoples minds?[DOUBLEPOST=1412111759][/DOUBLEPOST]@luv2rallye I have considered the ECT but I do not know how to test it.
 
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Still doesn't mean you ecm isn't bad do y9u have any local dsmers that will allow you to swap in a know working ecu and see if that helps. If not you can rule that out. I would slap in a new ect sensor and see what happens there pretty cheap
 
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