Yes I made sure I checked the part number. And I'm using my 98 cas. Wen I plug it in it reads the ecu and I can activate the fuel pump and fans, also when I deselect the injectors it just cranks but wen I select them it starts then shuts off

eclipto98 said:

Yes I made sure I checked the part number. And I'm using my 98 cas. Wen I plug it in it reads the ecu and I can activate the fuel pump and fans, also when I deselect the injectors it just cranks but wen I select them it starts then shuts off

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Can you post a log to so we can see the settings you have?

How do I make a log that shows the settings I will try in the morning when I'm off of work

Start a stream/capture, stop it, then save it and upload the file here.[DOUBLEPOST=1410156971][/DOUBLEPOST]How does your car die.? In other words, does the car idle too low and dies or the car completely turns off as if the battery disconnected?

Il do it in the morning,[DOUBLEPOST=1410165429][/DOUBLEPOST]I pulled the eprom apart and nothing looks burnt so I'm guessing and hoping it's software related[DOUBLEPOST=1410185608][/DOUBLEPOST]Got it to work today when i got home i guess the gm maf was selected, but still my car is running rougher then sandpaper i made a log anyway, what do you think?

eclipto98 said:

Il do it in the morning,[DOUBLEPOST=1410165429][/DOUBLEPOST]I pulled the eprom apart and nothing looks burnt so I'm guessing and hoping it's software related[DOUBLEPOST=1410185608][/DOUBLEPOST]Got it to work today when i got home i guess the gm maf was selected, but still my car is running rougher then sandpaper i made a log anyway, what do you think?

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I just opened the log and noticed your deadtime is set wrong. You need to zero that since your on stock injectors. That's why its idling rough and running rich. Once you do that, start another log and you should see your front 02 cycling up and down now too.

so i need to set my global dead time to zero?

eclipto98 said:

so i need to set my global dead time to zero?

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Yes, if you're running stock injectors. The deadtime you have set now is causing a rich air fuel ratio. Once you zero that out you should be fine. Make sure your front 02 cycles up and down like it's supposed to.

SNAKE_15 said:

Yes, if you're running stock injectors. The deadtime you have set now is causing a rich air fuel ratio. Once you zero that out you should be fine. Make sure your front 02 cycles up and down like it's supposed to.

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ok il do that when i go to my car another problem im having is the stalling whenever i push in the clutch it happens if im over 900 rpms. i cant drive in traffic like this its horrible whats the options to fix this. i have a log for it too.

eclipto98 said:

ok il do that when i go to my car another problem im having is the stalling whenever i push in the clutch it happens if im over 900 rpms. i cant drive in traffic like this its horrible whats the options to fix this. i have a log for it too.

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I'll have to see when I'm home. I'm on my cellphone right now. For now set your deadtime to zero and test drive your car and see if the clutch issue continues.

To start with, I'm new to DSM's but not new to being a wrench monkey. I have to say, I wasn't expecting all of these electrical issues with these cars, not my style tbh.

Anyway, I picked up a '94 TSi awd/turbo for $700 and change a few days ago. PO practically owned his own junk yard with how many vehicles he had. Not his DD, claimed it was running for a while but quit when he went to drive it one day. I've been reading through here, DSMtalk, and a bunch of others via google. I'll layout everything I've been through:

1. Fuel
Fuel pump is working (can hear it), relay is working. Wasn't sure about the gas but considering the ad was up only a month and he updated it just this Sunday with the no start, I'm inclined to think it isn't bad gas. Either way, I drained some from the tank and it look/smelled fine. Haven't checked FPR or injectors yet (not sure quite how on the latter). I sprayed starting fluid in the TB and it didn't even attempt to fire.

2. Spark
After giving it a new battery, I hit the key to ON with no CEL light. Pulled the ECU and inspected, looked fine surprisingly (EPROM, looks like new caps, no leakage, no burn marks, etc). Reinstalled and simultaneously bypassed MPI fuse (temporarily) while checking spark via grounding on valve cover. No CEL light, no spark. Checked the IGN relay, wasn't moving. I held the contacts together and cranked it, no CEL light but lo and behold, I have spark (tach needle pulses now too). Again tried with starting fluid, no start.

3. Timing
Cam gears are AEM and the timing belt looks brand new, as if it were changed VERY recently. However I'll be honest, I have no clue how to set timing and aside from looking at timing marks, I can't tell if it's in time either. I attempted to rotate the crank by hand but it would NOT budge. It looks like someone messed with the CAS at some point, as there is a nut missing. I set cylinder 1 to TDC (via screwdriver in spark plug hole) and removed it for inspection, looked fine. Reinstalled verifying it was not 180* backwards.

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I'm gonna add new gas and do a compression test tomorrow just for kicks. I'll keep reading, but if anyone has any suggestions or input, I'd appreciate it.

Check for compression.

Huh your post is confusing in that you said you tried to rotate the crank by hand and it would NOT budge. But then you say you set cylinder #1 to tdc? Was it cause the plugs were in( though that should make it harder not impossible) or was it seized? Do have a crank/no start our, is it a no crank/no start?

pull the cas on the passanger side of the block with it plugged in and key on turn it with your hand; you should here the fuel pump and injector spray. also you should be able to get spark doing this if you dont get any of this unplug it and inspect the connection. i had a very similar problem on my 1g and this solved the problem by messing with the cas. if not try looking at the coil pack and the ptu (power transistor unit). these will control the spark of the car obviously. another thing you can try is to clean the connection on the battery posts and the terminals themselves, my car was just not starting and it was a new battery and i cleaned terminals and fired first try!

is there even a bulb in where the check engine light is? more times than not ill get one of these cars and no check engine light but yet it wont run like it should and i look and no bulb.

Sorry for the confusion. The crank would not move by hand with or without the spark plugs in. I turned it over using ignition to ensure cyl 1 was at TDC.

I have crank but no start.

Compression read fine, 170 psi in cyl 1 2 and 3, but only 95 in cyl 4. Something to address after I can get it to start.

I pulled the cluster and the bulb for CEL looks fine but still no CEL. I tested the CEL light output pin on the ECU and it says it's working and outputting a signal to it, so it's prolly something with the cluster.

I further narrowed it down yesterday: my injectors are not being grounded to fire. I inspected every part of the fuel system and everything up to the injectors is working fine (including themselves). However, when I go to crank it has a steady 12v coming from both pins (aka ECU side and the resistor pack side). I know this because I had a friend quickly ground out the injectors as I was cranking and it started to ignite and stumble every time it came to that cylinder (aka it was working).

So, I think it's either the ECU (which again, looks to be in good condition) the CAS, or the wiring inbetween. I'm going to follow up with that today if it stops raining.

Check the cas like i stated above sound like thats your problem. You would know if the ecu was dead it would stink pretty bad!

ECU smells and looks fine. Checked voltages to the CAS, everything came back normal. Took it out and spun it by hand, I could hear the spark plugs going but didn't hear any fuel injectors kick in. I'm thinking it's the ECU at this point.

Also found my ECU was only putting out 2.75 volts to the CTS and wasn't receiving any volts from the pigtail going into the CTS. Could this single handedly cause the car not to start? I was under the assumption it would flood the engine with gas, whereas it isn't at all right now).

I dont know the answer aboit the cts but with the cas you should get a injector to fire. Have someone wiggle the cas plug while you try to start the car if it fires or trys tighten up the pins on the plug. I was stumped for a good 2 weeks with that issue. Hope it helps nothing like putting tons of time into a car and nothing happens when trying to start i was furious.

I've checked all my fuses, my timing is correct. It has spark and fuel. It just won't start. My brother and I redid the timing last night and dropped the engine back in today. It started right up. Then we put the suspension all back together just to find out that it won't start now.

There was also white smoke coming from the oil fill cap and the oil dip stick.

No go. I pulled the fuel rail as well, rotated the CAS and still didn't fire. I think I'm gonna pick up a spare ECU and go from there.

If there is smoke coming from oil fill and dip stick that means there is back pressure coming from somewhere as its not exiting when the exhaust valves are open.

double check your timing. Sometimes the motor is not at true TDC when timing marks line up.

Line up the marks, check TDC. Repeat up to 6 times to make sure its at TDC when marks line up.

In theory if you have spark and fuel and the engine turns it will start if timed properly.

make sure the pcv is working. could have built up to much crank case pressure and caused damage

I would, when I had a crank/no start I went thru all the other possibilities and narrowed it down to ecu. I pulled the cover off and found very little damage, nothing like most pics I saw. Also no real fishy smell I could detect, but swapping it out with a known good ecu did the trick.

had same problem when i first replaced my motor even swapped ecu come to find out mine was a bad MAF if the ecu doesnt turn out check that