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Which longblock would you buy?

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Derail20T

Proven Member
179
21
Apr 21, 2013
Sarnia, ON_Canada
I have been looking for a built short block close to me but I have found 2 built longblocks. I already have a built 1g head with upgraded Springs and 1mm oversized valves. I am trying to decide which one of these longblocks to get. Each of the engines are 6 Bolt blocks Eagle rods and wiseco 9.0:1 Pistons. The similarities end here though.
Engine #1 has 25k mi on it, and a lightly ported otherwise stock 2g head. It also comes with a 2g intake manifold. I can see it run and check it out before I buy it. This engine is $300 more than #2.
Engine #2 was rebuilt a few years ago, but never installed or ran. It has a stock rebuilt 1g head. Essentially it is a 0 mile engine.
So the question is, do I choose the engine that I can see run for more money, or buy the fresh, 4 year old, 0 mile engine?
 
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Find it hard to belive #2 was built and not used after 4 years there is a reason i would say but i dont know does he have paperwork who did the rebuild was it done right at least engine 1 you know was done right it lasted 25k miles but whos to say it will last i bought my 1st built engine with 17k miles on it and put roughly 3k miles on it and sold the car guy ran car maybe 100miles and tensioner failed and bye bye head it had ferra +1 valves init too ran so strong for me but you never know
 
Seeing as engine #1 is one of ours I have a bias ;).

But I would also question why a "built" engine has sat unused and who built it.

It doesn't matter to me which one you buy as you are buying from our customer, but there is a lot to be said for seeing an engine run prior to buying and knowing the builder has a proven track record.

As for parts like tensioners, they can go anytime, seen them fail within a week of being new. That's why we use our solid tensioners on serious builds.
 
Thanks for the responses guys... I do agree with forcepower about the tensioner, and whichever engine I get i would likely change the Tbelt and the other timing components.[DOUBLEPOST=1410380456][/DOUBLEPOST]I have come to a decision... I am going with option #2! The seller even sweetened the deal by including delivery of the engine to my house! Thanks for all the input!
 
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I would consider both engines to be used, or second hand. Being able to actually see one of them run and know for certain the quality of workmanship can prove to be invaluable. If it were me, I would choose engine #1. After engine #2 has been sitting for 4 years there could be rust on the cylinder walls and any valve springs which have been compressed for that long are dead and will need to be replaced. Not to mention dust and dirt could have found it's way in, plus any assembly lube applied during assembly has deteriorated or run off of critical areas. At the very least this engine would have to be disassembled, cleaned, evalauated, reassembled and have the valve springs replaced.
 
I would consider both engines to be used, or second hand. Being able to actually see one of them run and know for certain the quality of workmanship can prove to be invaluable. If it were me, I would choose engine #1. After engine #2 has been sitting for 4 years there could be rust on the cylinder walls and any valve springs which have been compressed for that long are dead and will need to be replaced. Not to mention dust and dirt could have found it's way in, plus any assembly lube applied during assembly has deteriorated or run off of critical areas. At the very least this engine would have to be disassembled, cleaned, evalauated, reassembled and have the valve springs replaced.

Very valid comments and sound advise. You guys are lucky to have someone like "JacksonAuto" on this site.
 
I just took delivery of my new engine. Thank you Anubis for the delivery and the help getting it on the engine stand! I'll be tearing it down and inspecting it. I've taken the oil pan and valve cover off so far and everything looks really clean.
 
Here is a picture of a rod bearing from a supposedly " good" short block I bought from Craigslist. All the bearings were ruined from contamination of some kind metal or dirt or who knows. Even the crank ended up being toast. I did get a new cylinder head with it, thank gosh that was never installed it still had the assembly lubricant on it. I would go with #1, if the owner is really cool, he would let u do a oil change on it to make sure there is no treats in the pan, do a compression test ad let you pick his brain for all the answers you need. But then again why is he selling a good running engine??
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I finally got around to tearing apart the new longblock and everything looks really good! I don't know why there were arrows drawn with marker on the Pistons, but this engine was definitely never run, any ideas? I checked the main bearing clearances and they were all at .002, I'll be checking the rod bearings tomorrow when get a socket to fit the Eagle rod arp bolts...
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As for the head, it looks really good. It was definitely rebuilt but not ported, just a stock rebuild. I am planning on using my built 1g head with Cyclone Intake and will probably sell this other head. I'll also be eliminating the balance shafts and putting on a new timing belt and tensioner... I'll keep updating on my progress, hopefully I made the right choice!
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They draw arrows on the pistons so they know which way they go, as they are actually made to go in only one way. The head looks ok although i'd check to make sure your valves are all tight and that the seats look good.
That makes sense about the Pistons, considering the valve reliefs... Thanks!
 
I checked the rod clearances the other day and they were all at .002, so I am very happy with that. Tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to remove my built head that's in my car right now. I'm hoping it's still in good shape, but won't know until it's off.
 
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