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2G Symptom of a bad water pump

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99bluegst

10+ Year Contributor
200
1
Mar 10, 2010
houston, Texas
ok just wanter to share some experience here,

I just build my motor and changed everything except the water pump
300 miles later my radiator gave up on me but before that my coolant temperature never saw 213 F*. So I got new oem style radiator from oreilly and put it all back together with a new thermostat and filled up with 50/50 water.

So I start driving the car on highway and after 20 minutes driving at 60/70 mph
I see 219, i was WFT what is going on here, LOL. Since then every time I get out the highway my car starts to heat up and my a/c fan will kick on at 223F then just keep on going high. So by then I already replaced my sequent thermostat and still don't open cause the lower rad hose still so cold even at 223F.
:confused:
So then I went to home depot to get some shit to make my FMIC ducting for better cooling, so i finish all up and went for a test drive on the highway and now i see 213 while driving and slowly raising but then again i get out the freeway and start heating up again. :banghead:

I got to my friends house and change another thermostat with no luck.
By then I already start thinking that the water is slipping at idle so i let the car warm up till 210 when the fan kicks in and still my lower hose still cold and the upper hot like normal so hurry up and shut off the car and drain the coolant and take off the thermostat and i notice my thermostat was fully open then i realize that the water pump was not doing what it suppose too. :ohdamn:

Tomorrow ill be doing the water pump and keep you guys updated for the results
 
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Your system might have partially plugged up if you put a flush additive in your system. When u rev the engine it allows what little the passage is to get through.

I've seen it happen before,make sure nothing got in your new rad. When they packaged it n you might not have seen it when u installed it
 
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Your system might have partially plugged up if you put a flush additive in your system. When u rev the engine it allows what little the passage is to get through.

I've seen it happen before,make sure nothing got in your new rad. When they packaged it n you might not have seen it when u installed it

I did man, I flush the new rad and water is flowing nice but is a little duty though
 
Are you losing any coolant, like even a tiny amount after driving?

I would pressure test your system.

GL
 
The most obvious thing going on here is the replacement radiator is simply not transferring heat off as efficiently as the OEM unit, maybe its core isnt as thick? the materials used are not of the same quality, the flow isnt the same. if your really looking to figure out if coolant is flowing get a section of the clear hose they sell with the wire reinforcement, put it on the top hose, turn the car on and view it ad idle, verify coolant is flowing, then pressure test the system, after all these checks the you will definitively know if the radiator is not a good thermal exchanger. depending on your fan setup a shroud will make a big difference, but is a band aid to an ineffective radiator.
 
Take ## heater core hoses off leavin g rubber hooked to core and put funnel on one end and fill with water to see if it flows through it. First thing that will clog in your system
 
I reasently bought a 95 awd talon and had resently thought my water pump was goin bad it over heated and started leaking coolant wich appeared to be comming from oil filter area so I though it was the water pump but I then figured out there is a coolant line that runs to or near the oil filter casing as I was looking the engine over I saw there was a small leak comming from the thermostat area I opened it up and there was no f***ing thermostat I bought one put it in and it no longer over heated I drove it in the highway to make sure and no over heating I drove it around and it was fine it still dripped a lil bit of coolant from around the oil filter but only when its off and sitting for a while and its only a small amount ..ok so now my question is my water pump ok ? New to the dsm world so any help is good help
 
I had same issue thaught motor was toast my last attempt was buying at orileys the no spill funnel cost around 40$ has all kinds of caps u put on the fill hole and funnel goes in it (has a hole in the cap and ruber oring under to seal it) fill car up via funnel and when full fill funnel about half with water start and let hit operating temp air is going to take path of least resistance so out the funnel after hits operating temp watch bubbles will stop and pull funnel kit off and good to go at least in my case expensive but better than a headgasket job and it comes in handy
 
Only other thing to do is jack the front end up higher than back, so all the air the air gets purged. Also turn the heat on to get circulation thru the heater core. If you buy a cheap laser thermometer and take readings of the rad, inlet/outlet hoses, water pump outlet,etc you'll get a better idea of what's happening.
 
if you think there could be more air in system hit up a lube shop..most lube shops have a rad flush machine that runs off vacuum...it hooks up at fill hole and sucks coolant out and any trapped air while motor is running. The vacuum it creates sucks new coolant back into motor..it will not work if you have a leak in your cooling system..just something to think about as a last resort
 
Just get a new pump. Very cheap. A new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner will run you 157 bucks total at autozone. I was surprised how cheap the water pumps are for my gsx. Only 38 dollars.
 
Let the motor get up to operating temp, and rev that puppy by hand at the motor, watch your in and out hoses from the radiator and make sure they are not sucking together stopping flow! I had an over heating problem on the freeway and that was the problem, once I got up in rpm's, the hose would suck together stopping flow causing it to over heat, i'd let off the gas and baby it, id be fine, any amount of gas would make it over heat. I facepalmed myself once I figured it out.
 
Depends what you buy from autozone some stuff I have bought from them I have had no issues with [like their water pumps], and sometimes the opposite, it's like a gamble so if it's something for my dsm I won't go there... unless it is a basic thing like a tool or a hose or a battery etc. but in most cases I'll go oem or proven parts source.

As for the ops issue: if the coolant is dirty pour it all out and
fill the system with a cleaning additive and distilled water drive the car with it in the system a short distance, come home park the car let it cool off for a while, then come back drain the system and refill it with distilled water alone, drive a short distance return let it cool pour it out and see if it's clean once it comes out clean your good to use a 40/60 mix of coolant and distilled water.
 
you have to work by process of elimination . start by doing a leak down test . you might have a warped head or a crack . what you do is take the coolant cap off and make sure there is coolant right up to the top . then with the leak tester you put pressure in the cylinder and watch for the coolant to rise . if it does then you have a crack or a warped head cause you already changed the gasket . once that is eliminated then you can go on the next step . let us know how you make out . this is speaking from over 40 years as a mechanic .
 
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