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(Video)engine knock or lifter sound

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Agll30

Proven Member
125
4
Aug 25, 2014
Beaverton, Oregon
Hi, I have 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST with 128k miles with new timing belt job and water pump. I changed the oil yesterday in the morning and then later took it out for a spin, when all of a sudden the car died and I tried to start it but it wouldn't start. It cranked over but didn't start until the 4th try. When i started the car, i heard this weird tapping sound like if it was a noisy lifter. But it sounds more like a rod knock or something banging in cylinder 3. I tried revving it a little and the knocking sound got louder and quicker, so I quickly turned it off and got it towed home, because i was afraid to damage it further. I plugged in my ob2 scanner and the code P1105 popped up, which means the fuel pressure solenoid is malfunctioning. The car was dying before and started back up before i changed the oil. I was reading online since my blitz bov is venting, that it could be the reason it's dying and running rich. I'm still waiting on the 1g bov i bought off the forums, and I'm going to recirculate it. I used Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic oil extended performance and made sure the oil was at level. I plan to do a compression test today after it stops raining. What do you guys think? I have added a video with the same noise i have.
 
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Check your oil for flakes. If your not tuned for bov venting don't run it like that. Recirculate the bov asap. Also make sure timing is dead on.
 
I haven't had time today but I will try tomorrow. The previous owner had it venting, I just bought the car 2 weeks ago.. I'm trying to upload video but it won't let me.
 
I would investigate the noise before even messing with the bov. Start by removing the plug wires one by one while the engine is running. If it quiets down than that cylinder has a bad bearing.
 
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I have the video here.[DOUBLEPOST=1411110022][/DOUBLEPOST]
I would investigate the noise before even messing with the bov. Start by removing the plug wires one by one while the engine is running. If it quiets down than that cylinder has a bad bearing.
Will it be safe to drive it to my garage. I parked it on the curb. I want to drop the oil pan but I can't on the street.
 
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Sounded like two different noises.Two engines, black rocker cover and then red rocker cover? The louder one in the first vid...MMM. Big end.
Did it change when you took off the plug lead.

Second vid. Lifters.
Did you remove 4 plug leads?
Cheers
Ross.
If you have an AFM you should recirc the BOV as the amount of air in the system has been measured by the AFM sensor. Map sensor does not have the same needs, you can vent with a MAP sensor and aftermarket computer.
Cheers
Ross
 
Sounded like two different noises.Two engines, black rocker cover and then red rocker cover? The louder one in the first vid...MMM. Big end.
Did it change when you took off the plug lead.

Second vid. Lifters.
Did you remove 4 plug leads?
Cheers
Ross.
If you have an AFM you should recirc the BOV as the amount of air in the system has been measured by the AFM sensor. Map sensor does not have the same needs, you can vent with a MAP sensor and aftermarket computer.
Cheers
Ross
In the first video with the red rocker cover, I found it on YouTube. It didn't sound like my engine at all thou. The second video with the black rocker cover is the one I uploaded. I used Mobil 5w30 full synthetic yesterday. Could it be I used too thin of an oil? Sounds like my engine is gonna blow up. I believe my car stalls due to the vented bov and fuel pressure solenoid.[DOUBLEPOST=1411174864][/DOUBLEPOST]Well I did a compression test today and cylinder #2 and #3 were low. I did both dry and wet test. The compression went up in cylinder #2 and #3 on the wet test. I also checked my timing, the timing marks were at the 12 o'clock position. I'm guessing i have bent valves. I plan to do a leak down test and power balance test tomorrow. I'll keep you guys updated!!
 

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This is was my 420a 2 years ago and I broke the rod bearing on cylinder 4 then junk that crap:beatentodeath:. Well I'm showing you how the major issue sound like.(Pay no mind on the video title, just need new rod bearing LOL.)
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My timing was off guys.. I can't believe how low compression I got in cylinder 2 and 3. I just drove it up in my garage after I heard that sound. I was about to replace the head.. Should I just trash the engine and get a built one?[DOUBLEPOST=1411363053][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm going to drop the oil pan tomorrow and check for metal shavings..
 
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How are you checking to see that timing is off because in that picture you post it isn't showing anything.

Put your dowels at 12oclock and line your timing marks up parallel with the top of the head in the center. Now look down to your dampener and see if the mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover. To me that kind of sounds like a collapsed lifter but cell phone video can be deceiving..
 
How are you checking to see that timing is off because in that picture you post it isn't showing anything.

Put your dowels at 12oclock and line your timing marks up parallel with the top of the head in the center. Now look down to your dampener and see if the mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover. To me that kind of sounds like a collapsed lifter but cell phone video can be deceiving..
The timing marks on the cam gear are off and dowel pins are pointing at the 9 o'clock position I'll take another pic and show you guys. How exactly would cause my timing to jump? I was gonna replace all the timing components and water pump next month. I guess it's gonna have to be sooner. I was gonna use this car for school and work, but now it will have to wait.
 
Put the dowel pins at 12 o clock and take a picture of your cam gear marks.[DOUBLEPOST=1411433538][/DOUBLEPOST]You cant just check timing in any old position. You turn the engine to line up marks in 2-3 places depending on if you have your balance shafts in phase..
 
Put the dowel pins at 12 o clock and take a picture of your cam gear marks.[DOUBLEPOST=1411433538][/DOUBLEPOST]You cant just check timing in any old position. You turn the engine to line up marks in 2-3 places depending on if you have your balance shafts in phase..
I turn the cam gear sprockets by using the crank clockwise right?[DOUBLEPOST=1411433749][/DOUBLEPOST]Thank you guys for helping out!!
 
Yes. Turn the crank clock wise until the cam gears are at 12 oclock'ish AND the dampener is in line with the mark or close to it. This will tell you you are in phase with the crank at TDC.. Then slowly keep turning the engine until the cam gear marks align in the middle of boths gears and is even with the top of the head/or bottom of the valve cover. You should then be able to look down at your crank pulley (dampener) and the mark on your dampener should line up with the TDC mark on the timing cover.

If this was in time before and you simply changed the oil, I wouldn't suspect mechanical timing to jump..especially like what you are describing
 
Yes. Turn the crank clock wise until the cam gears are at 12 oclock'ish AND the dampener is in line with the mark or close to it. This will tell you you are in phase with the crank at TDC.. Then slowly keep turning the engine until the cam gear marks align in the middle of boths gears and is even with the top of the head/or bottom of the valve cover. You should then be able to look down at your crank pulley (dampener) and the mark on your dampener should line up with the TDC mark on the timing cover.

If this was in time before and you simply changed the oil, I wouldn't suspect mechanical timing to jump..especially like what you are describing
Okay I rotated the engine by hand and my timing marks are dead on so it's lifters I'm guessing? Here's a pic
 

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As long as the crank pulley aka. Dampener is lined up with the timing cover TDC mark then yes you can rule out mechanical timing..

To check for a collapsed lifter, pull the valve cover off and try to depress all the lifters by hand. They should be solid and unable to be collapsed. if one is easily able to be pressed, that lifter is likely the culprit. Id also drain the oil just to check for flakes and glitter in case its not a lifter
 
As long as the crank pulley aka. Dampener is lined up with the timing cover TDC mark then yes you can rule out mechanical timing..

To check for a collapsed lifter, pull the valve cover off and try to depress all the lifters by hand. They should be solid and unable to be collapsed. if one is easily able to be pressed, that lifter is likely the culprit. Id also drain the oil just to check for flakes and glitter in case its not a lifter
okay I took the valve cover off, came off pretty easy.. Which are the lifters?[DOUBLEPOST=1411441563][/DOUBLEPOST]Nvm I found the lifters.. They all feel pretty solid. Am supposed to check them all by turning the engine over? I also found some scoring on my rocker arm I believe.
 

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To really check each individual lifter for collapse, you turn your motor by hand until the cam lobe is not putting pressure on the lifter if that makes sense. You want to allow as much movement as possible. It can be difficult to find a collapse lifter like this, but can be done.

I would focus on draining your oil next.
 
To really check each individual lifter for collapse, you turn your motor by hand until the cam lobe is not putting pressure on the lifter if that makes sense. You want to allow as much movement as possible. It can be difficult to find a collapse lifter like this, but can be done.

I would focus on draining your oil next.
Oh okay, yes I understand what you mean. I'll check the lifters later cause I'm at school.. But wouldn't the proper way to check for a bad lifter, be by removing them all and to check if they all compress? I drained my oil and didn't see any shiny particles or pieces of metal.
Or u can just get yourself new sets of lifter already and see if it still making noise if you want to gamble. At least you got brand new lifter if it doesn't solve the problem.
I was thinking of getting 3G revised lifters or should I go with oem, if I plan to replace them?
 
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