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2G Ran into a little fuel issue.

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ImJay

Proven Member
107
0
Feb 3, 2013
Richmond, Virginia
WELP. It finally happened, I knew it would as I was on borrowed time. When I bought the car I realized that somehow the last owner had managed to mess up and by mess up I mean completely snap a fuel line in two. So I decided to do a make shift fix to see how long it will run me time wise. I took a piece of tubing combed it over the broken Fuel line and attached the tubing to the other part of the fuel line leading to the fuel filter. Three clamps to tighten it and took it for a test drive and all was normal. I didn't explode! SO today i figured I'd take a drive to my buds place, as soon as I turned on the car I smelt fuel but paid no heed to it. It wasn't until I got to my buds house when I parked my firend told me to turn off the car cause there was a puddle of fuel leaking under me. We popped the hood and my worst fear came true, THe hose up and dry rotted it lasted a good year but it finally came to an end. The car was towed home and now sits in wait.

I have decided since im building a head in the process, to just get a whole new Fuel Feed Upgrade system. I would like some recommendations on to which way to go.
I know of Fuelab has a kit, and AEM has a kit, but I don't trust anythingI don't know about so I would like some opinions on what ya'll use. It makes me decide much easier.
 
I have (So far):
DSMlink v3 with MAPSensor input w/AEMWideband (narrowband sim.).
880PTE injectors
255Wallypro
FPmani
Big 16g.

That is all till the head is done being built ( i have two 7 bolt heads one is being builr , the other is used as a daily.
Once the head is done being ported & polished, machined, the 272's Kel's go in and with a new FPred and 1000FIC's.
 
Youre lucky the car didnt burn up. My guess is you also used any old piece of hose and not fuel hose. Please fix that the right way.
 
Lol as said it was supposed to be a temp fix and was to replace it much sooner but it got lost in the process of building.

The car is not going anywhere till I can get a new fuel kit, that which is pending depending on what is good kit to get.
 
Remember: its a 1:1 fpr. Base 43 psi PLUS whatever boost you're running. You could see as high as 70,80+psi from the tank to fpr. The return line obviously doesnt need to be as robust but for sure on the feed. Get ya some braided nylonz(or steel) and one of those hanger to -6AN adapter fittings, a new 6AN filter and a rail to 6AN adapter. Easy peasy and pretty cheap all said and done
 
Lol as said it was supposed to be a temp fix and was to replace it much sooner but it got lost in the process of building.

The car is not going anywhere till I can get a new fuel kit, that which is pending depending on what is good kit to get.

No biggie, we've all done jerry rigged work to get by and then ya get busy and next thing ya know it pops up and bites ya in the a$$. Lesson learned and all you had to do was tow it home. Not take a burned shell of a car to the scrap yard!
I had a hose break(crappy ebay fpr kit) in the engine bay and luckily i always carry a fire extinguisher with me. no fire but still. Spooky. And btw, I recommend anyone who has modified their fuel system in any way to ALWAYS pack a little portable Kiddie extinguisher in the back seat. Could save you the 20 grand you got wrapped up in your car. Shit happens and its a nice little safety net to have around.[DOUBLEPOST=1411007055][/DOUBLEPOST]
I will look into this one, I know this may seem silly but what is the Diff. between -6an vs -8an ?
6,8,10... ive read its based of the 16ths. So 6an is 6/16 or 3/8", 8an is 1/2 inch. Correct me if im wrong anyone, but thats what ive been told and read in several places.
 
No biggie, we've all done jerry rigged work to get by and then ya get busy and next thing ya know it pops up and bites ya in the a$$. Lesson learned and all you had to do was tow it home. Not take a burned shell of a car to the scrap yard!
I had a hose break(crappy ebay fpr kit) in the engine bay and luckily i always carry a fire extinguisher with me. no fire but still. Spooky. And btw, I recommend anyone who has modified their fuel system in any way to ALWAYS pack a little portable Kiddie extinguisher in the back seat. Could save you the 20 grand you got wrapped up in your car. sh** happens and its a nice little safety net to have around.[DOUBLEPOST=1411007055][/DOUBLEPOST]
6,8,10... ive read its based of the 16ths. So 6an is 6/16 or 3/8", 8an is 1/2 inch. Correct me if im wrong anyone, but thats what ive been told and read in several places.

I think I will get a mini-extinguisher now! good safety is good. as for the fittings i wouldn't know haha im clueless, I hear it's just a difference in how much fuel you can get...
 
Well, Keltalon made damn near 700 WHEEL hp on 6an. Surprised the shit outta me too! I've since decided that since ive already got the wally 450 im gonna run 6an as well. Its not that much bigger ID than stock lines though. Let me see if i can find a link on ebay for that adapter to 6an, makes it dirt simple. No welding or anything.[DOUBLEPOST=1411007750][/DOUBLEPOST]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsu-Eclip...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d5009e79e&vxp=mtr
Then get ya what i listed above and you're ready to rock
 
You could always just buy a flaring tool, a few pieces of steel tubing and a flare union and permanently fix this without spending big bucks. The stock fuel line is about the same size as -6 braided line. Steel line is safer and far more reliable in the long run. The biggest restriction in the stock fuel system is the banjo fitting on the fuel filter.
 
I havent individually pieced the kit and priced it but you can buy the full "kit" synthetek posted and be done with it or buy individual fittings and piece it together yourself. It SHOULD be cheaper to piece it but may not be worth the extra hassle. Thats really up to you to decide.
The return you can use a 6an braide on one end and clamp the hose to the stock steel hard return line if you want. The return really isnt an issue unless you are running a monster pump and can't get base pressure down. Thats not something you will need to worry about at all.
 
You could always just buy a flaring tool, a few pieces of steel tubing and a flare union and permanently fix this without spending big bucks. The stock fuel line is about the same size as -6 braided line. Steel line is safer and far more reliable in the long run. The biggest restriction in the stock fuel system is the banjo fitting on the fuel filter.

would this be considered fixing the damaged line or a DIY yourself 'upgrade'.
I would love to make this cost effective but I will spend money when I have too and if a kit is where I'm going to have to go then so be it, but if a few steel lines, some fitting and some tricky work is albeit the same as getting a fuel kit then to each his own. Ya know?
 
So I can flare that tube and adapt it to a screw type fitting instead? Just wondering.

You can get a 6AN to M12x1.25 adapter that fits on the stock filter and 6AN adapter for the fuel rail and run a 6AN line from the filter to the rail and it would eliminate the banjo bolt.
 
would this be considered fixing the damaged line or a DIY yourself 'upgrade'.
I would love to make this cost effective but I will spend money when I have too and if a kit is where I'm going to have to go then so be it, but if a few steel lines, some fitting and some tricky work is albeit the same as getting a fuel kit then to each his own. Ya know?

It would be the correct way to repair the stock line. If the flares are done right than it will be good as new. Basically you would just run a new line from the bottom of the filter under the body to meet up with the old line. Than you would make a clean cut with a tubing cutter and flare both ends. You would want to install a threaded fitting onto the line before flaring the end. You really will only need one piece of line for this, which can be had for like 10 bucks at the auto parts store. You need to make sure to get the line with metric fittings. The standard fittings will screw into the filter, but it will be loose. You will also need a flare union which is like 5 bucks. Something like this, but in a metric size.
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You can also rent a flaring tool from most parts stores for just a deposit. So for the piece of line, a tubing cutter and a union you are looking at like 20 bucks total.[DOUBLEPOST=1411029824][/DOUBLEPOST]
So I can flare that tube and adapt it to a screw type fitting instead? Just wondering.
As synthetik stated, you would probably want to just use a screw in fitting with a copper washer and -6 hose to replace that hose. You wouldn't want a solid line going from the filter to the engine because it needs to flex. If you could find the correct barbed fittings than you could use high pressure fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps, but you would likely never find anything to be able to do that correctly.
 
It would be the correct way to repair the stock line. If the flares are done right than it will be good as new. Basically you would just run a new line from the bottom of the filter under the body to meet up with the old line. Than you would make a clean cut with a tubing cutter and flare both ends. You would want to install a threaded fitting onto the line before flaring the end. You really will only need one piece of line for this, which can be had for like 10 bucks at the auto parts store. You need to make sure to get the line with metric fittings. The standard fittings will screw into the filter, but it will be loose. You will also need a flare union which is like 5 bucks. Something like this, but in a metric size.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You can also rent a flaring tool from most parts stores for just a deposit. So for the piece of line, a tubing cutter and a union you are looking at like 20 bucks total.[DOUBLEPOST=1411029824][/DOUBLEPOST]
As synthetik stated, you would probably want to just use a screw in fitting with a copper washer and -6 hose to replace that hose. You wouldn't want a solid line going from the filter to the engine because it needs to flex. If you could find the correct barbed fittings than you could use high pressure fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps, but you would likely never find anything to be able to do that correctly.

Would you consider this to be the equivalent of getting a kit? I know it's the correct way but I know somewhere along the very long line I will need to update the fuel system. Kill two birds with one stone I say but, but if a few steal lines and fitting do just the trick then I'm all game
 
As far as fuel flow goes, the stock line is about the same as a -6, so if you aren't planning on making over say 600 horsepower on gas than i would say that it would be just fine.
 
As far as fuel flow goes, the stock line is about the same as a -6, so if you aren't planning on making over say 600 horsepower on gas than i would say that it would be just fine.

haha! then this might be my answer then! I don't plan on going past 600, just staying underneath 600 in the 500-550 territory. Thank Bryan for this help!
 
I went with -6an push lock fuel house from tank to rail, bought the two stm fuel rail adapters (quality pieces) and a decent inline fuel filter and it was cheap.
 
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