ok I will look tomorrow and take lots of pics to show what I have and what im looking at thanks for the help on what part I had laying around was driving me nuts about what it went too

bryanwheat said:

Those are just the rear mount, there are 3 different ones in that pic because one is for awd auto, one for awd 5 speed, and one for fwd. You have to make sure that you have the right one. This mount will bolt to the back of the block below the starter.

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I can see your absoutly right something is terribly wrong with this set up... I fount the rear mount its the 194 its the long one theirs a really short on on their now not sure if its soposto be their or not im gonna up load the pics when I get a chance I tried looking for where it mounts to but couldn't really see because the mount was kinda blocking it ive been searching for some kind of picture t go off of but haven't found much to compare too.. but I cant argue at all I don't like it also in the ft mount the holes utilized don't look strong enough.. the other mount holes have bosses to the block its part of the casting these are just reg holes not sure if they would be up for the task being this car is probly gonna produce some decent power... opinions? the rear mount will defiantly be getting some kind of attention. what about the ft? do you think I could weld bosses to the holds to strengthen them? the other mount hols are still their just 1 is broke would I be better off using that? and trying to fix the broken hole? can anyone supply pics of the rear tranaxel mount for comparison ? thanks

You were given realistically the only option. Get another block. I know you dont like it, I wouldn't either but it really is the only way.

bryanwheat said:

Those are just the rear mount, there are 3 different ones in that pic because one is for awd auto, one for awd 5 speed, and one for fwd. You have to make sure that you have the right one. This mount will bolt to the back of the block below the starter.

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pauleyman said:

You were given realistically the only option. Get another block. I know you dont like it, I wouldn't either but it really is the only way.

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okay guys I have figured this puppy out.. I found the rear motor mount and decided to take the failed welding class project of a mount out of the rear thank god I did just look at this thing!!! stick welded and what a piece of crap!!! no idea why he did it because the original mount fit perfectly with no problems just realized he didn't have any bolts to support the mount he had used smaller bolts and used this other mount in which I have pictured.. not sure what its for? he probably didn't have the right bolts for anything and just made this to work.. stupidly at its best!!!! this would of most defiantly failed!!! and it was mounted to the bell housing of the transmission not the motor!!!! ?!?!?!?!? so I got the original one in place and fits great just need to get some new grade 8 bolts for it and the back will be done.. on that note anyone know the sizes of these bolts and thread sizes in the block??



to continue i have devised a geinus plan for the front mount!!! after a lot of hard thinking on what to do i figured nothing was going to work especially given the fact the bosses on the block are not supported at all and most likely will break given this motor is capable of 800hp i am in constant fear it will do exactly what you guys say and i can see now understanding where things are soposto go and how its soposto be and why i have no doubt im in for trouble being taking the motor out and ripping apart and getting another block was the last thing i wanted to do i had a brilliant idea!! 1 hole is still intact and look fine and not damaged.. the lower hole on the ft mount for the block is obviously broken off but looking closely the hole is broken on 1 side and their still is some threads deep inside, enough to get 4-6 threads (2-3 turns of a bolt) in.. so my idea is to put the mount back where its soposto be use the upper bolt that still intake and for the bottom use a stud and weld the area that's broken off... ideally not a good idea being it would be permanent but it would work and be strong enough to support a good bit of power.. keep in mind this car probably wont have 800 hp but it will let me still use the block and it would be strong studs are known to be stronger then bolts and what a great way to keep the block i would have to re fab the bottom part of the mount and weld it back in after i find one or make one wither way i am confident it will work great and i was wondering what you guys think.. i know you probably never seen this done but i cant think of any reason it wouldn't and that would solve all my ft mount problems leave me some impute guys opinions are important in decision making and i like all imputes its what helped spark a lot of ideas around the world.. thanks for the previous input and questions about the mess of mounts i had because at first i would have just put together and most likely broke everything and now I'm gearing up to make it the way its soposto no matter what.

Are you using a 2g tranny?

pauleyman said:

Are you using a 2g tranny?

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i don't believe so i don't know forsure though my guess its a 1g tranny but this guy also said a lot of things that were NOT true weather he knew it or not how can i tell what tranny i have?

Are there mounting bosses on the tranny. Was that rear abomination mounted to the tranny?

pauleyman said:

Are there mounting bosses on the tranny. Was that rear abomination mounted to the tranny?

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yes the abomination was bolted to the bell housing the last 2 bolt holes on the back side of the trans not sure what goes their but you raising that question made me wonder and worrie so I researched the tanny numbers are kw5m332npxv which its hard to find info on this but I did find a fourm on dsm talk that says it came from a 91-94 1g eclipse so it sould be the right tranny I also have another spare tans that came with car but I cant find its numbers anywhere.. u have any idea what goes their?

Nevermind. I was thinking you had a 2g tranny which bolts the mount front and rear instead of the motor.