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South Bend Clutch Users Questionairre- looking for updates on everyone's setups!

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I have some mixed reviews on my Southbend SS-TZ Clutch. It had been working great for the last 4 months until last Friday night at the track. It started slipping really bad in 3rd and 4th gears. I think it is because I had 3 drag passes in 1/2 an hour. I am using the stock flywheel. I have read that I can deglaze the clutch by breaking it in again for 1000 miles. Has anyone experienced this before? Hopefully that works or I'll be doing my auto swap early...
Anyway, here's my info...
Specific model used
---Pressure plate type:

-->SS Series
---Disk type:
-->TZ series - Kevlar

*Specific model flywheel used
--> Stock

*Duration of usage AND mileage on clutch
4 months, 4000 miles

*Power levels and Drag ET's/MPH if available
362 awhp, 353 tq
12.12 @ 117.71 mph

*Usage Type
-->Street/Strip

*Short personal evaluation of the clutch you chose
-->Would you buy the same one again?
Probably not because I'm always wanting more power to go faster
-->Would you choose a different pressure plate next time (higher or lower clamp force)?
no, the pressure is great
-->Would you choose a different clutch disk friction material next time?
Yes, to handle more power
 
You are at the limits of a full Kevlar disk on a 2200# pressure plate at the track. Either change to a full ceramic disk (yes, your clutch disk can be sent to SBC and get relined for like $100), or you go to the higher pressure plate clamp load and then break the glaze on your disk and run it back in. Overall, the clutch did exactly it's job, you overheated it because of not enough cool down, and you were at its rated torque limits (they are rated for 400-450tq at the crank) on a prepped track. That is the lowest stage clutch I sell and it is a perfect street daily driver clutch with stock pedal feel and super smooth. It is not a clutch that can handle hot lapping with your power levels, you should have gone with an O/FE disk, or a TZ/B disk or preferably a B series full ceramic if you want to get the most out of the clutch while keeping your soft pedal feel.

So, I would suggest you get your clutch disk relined by SBC.
 
Thanks for the reply. Nowhere on the website says the clutch is only rated for 400-450 tq. It specifically says that it "conservatively rated for 500 tq." if I new it was only rated for 400-450, I would have bought a different clutch.
The website also states that back to back passes with a stock flywheel is ok, but to not do this with an aluminum flywheel. I thought I would be ok and didn't bother letting it cool down between runs.
It looks like the advertisement on the website is very misleading. If I new all this in the beginning, I still would have bought a Southbend clutch, but would have gotten one rated for more power.
 
I apologize for the description on the website, I will update it when I have time to include the statement that if you intend on hot-lapping a Kevlar material, to go use a Ceramic material disk instead.

Traction on the street vs. on a prepared track at your power levels, the clutch should have easily held on the street. When you put it on a prepared track and reduce the potential for wheelspin, you shockload the clutch with a significantly higher torque value. In your circumstance, I still think your disk was overheated more than exceeding the torque capacity.

The clutch should be fine still, but it will need to be broken back in to break through the glaze. If it doesn't recover let me know and I will work with you to get a proper friction material on your disk that will be actually fitting your application better.
 
*Specific model used
---Pressure plate type:

-->Custom SS-X Series
---Disk type:
-->B-Series full Ceramic (unsprung)

*Specific model flywheel used
-->ACT Streetlite Chromoly

*Duration of usage AND mileage on clutch
Around 1-2k city miles.

*Power levels and Drag ET's/MPH if available
524.5whp
(ET and MPH coming soon)

*Usage Type
-->Street/Strip

*Short personal evaluation of the clutch you chose
-->Would you buy the same one again?
HELL YES, I love this clutch!
-->Would you choose a different pressure plate next time (higher or lower clamp force)?
nope
-->Would you choose a different clutch disk friction material next time?
no, it's perfect

I'm very happy with this clutch. You rock Tim!
I am using the same set up on my race car but a race sprung center. I have found the right out of the box .609 ACT flywheel works best. I have tryed alot of clutch and flywheel set ups as in diffrent step heights etc and after years of testing finally found a system that works and holds any power that I have ~480 HP. I can drive this clutch on the street no problem as well. I would highly recomend to anyone that does any kind of drag racing with 400+ HP to go right to the full ceramic SSX. I would not change anything on this clutch as I pull my car to 7800 shifts all day at the track and shifting is no problem,. Got to thank TMZ for a solid transmission and clutch.
 
And it's a fun ass car to drive Kris! Shifts damn good with it on the street and at the track!
 
Thank you, twick69. I will try to break the clutch back in and see what happens. I appreciate your understanding of my situation and I agree that the writeup on the website should be changed. I have been recommending the Southbend clutch to people even before I had used one based on the rave reviews about the quality of the product and the customer service that you provide. I will continue to do so in the future.
 
From experience, if you want your transmission to survive, no 6-puck. If you like breaking things, go for the 6-puck.
What's wrong with a 6 puck sprung disk that can cause damage?
 
Shockload.

If you want to discuss this further, please start your own thread, this is a specific topic thread, keep it on track.
 
Initial review of my SS-TZ currently have 30 miles on it.
The pedal feel is defiantly the softest I have used so far. It is all most OEM civic soft. Engagement is smooth. I am using an OEM flywheel with correct step height Media blasted. I will update after break in period. So far so good.
 
Initial review of my SS-TZ currently have 30 miles on it.
The pedal feel is defiantly the softest I have used so far. It is all most OEM civic soft. Engagement is smooth. I am using an OEM flywheel with correct step height Media blasted. I will update after break in period. So far so good.
Give it a good long break in period of street city driving. You will feel when it ready as it starts to grab a little more on engaguement.
 
Give it a good long break in period of street city driving. You will feel when it ready as it starts to grab a little more on engaguement.

Thanks you TSIfreek.
 
I don't wanna get off topic much in this post being that it's for reviews but since it's already been mentioned, wondering about the sprung/unsprung hubs (and sure any info regarding it would help others to make a more educated purchase). Being that I just sold my QM so I can pick one of these up, my only last debate is sprung and unsprung. I've had a few ACT disc puke out the springs so nervous about going with anything else that's sprung. Obviously the sprung hub would be better for softer engagements and less stress on the drivetrain because of the shockload, but would there be anything else to consider? Chatter for example? Figure a solid hub would save weight, help with shifts, and no worries of puking out a spring. Thanks, and love the thread. Some good info in it.
 
UPDATE:

I was utilizing the TZ/FE disk with an ACT 2900 PP. See post 76 for more details. This clutch propelled me to an 11.2 at 126mph. I have been very happy with this combination and plan to use another southbend setup. It was abused on a every outing basses and went through hundreds of drag passes. In the end, it was not the product that failed but user error.

I did not fully engage the clutch causing it to slip. This created a massive amount of heat that no disk should withstand.



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That is the drawback to the Feramic material and why I recommend the Ceramic material as an alternative for very high temperatures as it will certainly degrade over time, but it will not friction weld itself to the flywheel. Overall, looks like the disk just got way too hot; the glazed Kevlar side is a dead giveaway that you weren't fully disengaging the clutch.
 
unsprung disc does shift faster and there are no springs to fail. but it is less reliable at the splines. splines often strip out or worse ruin input spline on trans. this virtually never happens with a sprung disc. there is also far more noise . usually very loud drive shaft vibration on decel. can chatter more on takeoff which makes it less enjoyable as a daily.

every new car on the planet has springs on clutch or flywheel. they serve an important purpose or they wouldnt be there.
 
It's been a while since I've been here, so I never saw this post. But if you're still interested...

*Specific model used

---Pressure plate type:

South Bend SS-Series Pressure Plate

---Disk type:

TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Disk


*Specific model flywheel used

Stock, will be going to an ACT Chromoly

*Duration of usage AND mileage on clutch

About 1500-2000 miles

*Power levels and Drag ET's/MPH if available

DSMLink Estimate: 444hp/340tq

*Usage Type

Weekend Warrior Abuse

*Short personal evaluation of the clutch you chose
-->Would you buy the same one again? YES

-->Would you choose a different pressure plate next time (higher or lower clamp force)?

NO PERFECT.

-->Would you choose a different clutch disk friction material next time? Maybe, I plan to make more power.


My personal evaluation is, I really really really like this clutch setup. Unfortunately mine lived a short life do to a leaking rear main seal contaminating the disk, causing it to slip during third gear pulls. I love the pressure plate feel, and I love the smooth engagement of the Kevlar disk. Once I get my car back on the road, I will be putting another Southbend disk in (not sure which one yet) with my existing pressure plate.
 
Nice I'll be grabbing one on my list need one anyway to replace the act which held up great for over ten years now.
 
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Had a failure on my ss TZ/B clutch, but I know it is due to increase torque on my car.

At the shootout a few weeks ago, I launched the car to my best 60' Yet (1.58) However just past the 1/8th mile it started to slip.

The car is now at 36psi through the 3065 and on slicks, couple this with great track prep at Norwalk- the disc was not having it.

Here is a picture of the disc

I think I am going to go with your ss-x with the full face ceramic disc next tym

VD dyno numbers are 520hp 410Tq , quarter mile times are 11.07 @129
 
Yeah that's definitely at the limits of a SS pressure plate with a Kevlar lining. On the street maybe, but on the track it's gonna annihilate the disk material.
 
You should have 3/4"-1" of overall slave travel at the slave rod to fork in an OEM pedal/hydraulic situation.

Ha! On a 1g .75 is the theoretical maximum. And that's only if everything is perfect and adjusted for max throw. Your real effective travel is "less than .5". I'd wager you loose up to .125" of slave travel just from the 1g relay shaft twisting....
 
That is the drawback to the Feramic material and why I recommend the Ceramic material as an alternative for very high temperatures as it will certainly degrade over time, but it will not friction weld itself to the flywheel. Overall, looks like the disk just got way too hot; the glazed Kevlar side is a dead giveaway that you weren't fully disengaging the clutch.
Is the SS B kit still available or does it not really make sense to pair those two and most people who would be looking at it might just be better off with either SS TZ/B or SS-X B depending on power level?
 
The petal is light on the SSX plate I see no reason to use a SS plate. Tim might want to add to this as well.
 
I can have it made, it's the same price as the SS TZ/B kit and works fine. Typically for drag racing I would recommend the SS-X pressure plate with this clutch disk.
 
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