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Clutch Fork too far over on the driver side(right)...

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NOMIEZVR4

20+ Year Contributor
327
1
Nov 5, 2002
Chicago, Illinois
I was going to bump up an old thread but I decided against it because this is for a different car...same family different platform. :) I'm really hoping you guys can help...haven't gotten much of a response from the 3/s boards...

So here is the issue...95 3000GT VR-4...after adjusting other peoples clutches and pedals I decided to do mine today as its been on my to-do list for a while. I noticed something strange. Looking at the clutch fork, from the front of the car its facing 1:00...i looked at another VR4 i had at the shop and his fork was at 12:00...meaning perfectly centered in the bellhousing(like it should be for DSM's and our cars). Well the issue is with the fork at 1:00 I can't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder is completely pushed IN. BTW I'm making references to the Jack's transmission clutch adjustment video on youtube if anyone is confused.

Although at the moment I don't have any issues, I'm fearing that its just a matter of time before the clutch fails or starts slipping. The setup on my car is a Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch with a new Fidanza Flywheel and OEM TOB. Clutch probably has 8-10k on it over the past 4 years... No shims on the pivot ball. Never had/have any shifting/lockout issues though my trans grinds the 2/3 gears...which I think has been the residual effect of the misaligned fork which put stress on the syncros. Anyone have an idea why the fork is facing the way it is instead of otherwise?

I have a buddies car at the shop as well... car is a 99 3000GT VR4...this car has had a problem eating clutches. Last year this car ate up a brand new in 10k miles..down to the rivets...just a bolt-on car, ~300whp and daily driving it. Prior to me installing the last clutch, it had gone thru 3 clutches in under 90k miles..So fast forward to ~ 3 months ago. I installed a new ball, fork, new flywheel(IPS motorsports) and OEM TOB. No shimming . Recently I just installed a new SB 4 FE clutch in this car about 1k miles ago and this is how the Fork is sitting...NOT good..if it keeps up like this it will eat this clutch up as well...anyone have any insight to why the fork is sitting the way it is?
 

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Here is a picture of my fork on my car and you can see what I mean with the Slave being pushed all the way in...I should also mention (and this is a few years old)...I distinctly remember the second time around when installing my transmission that the slave cylinder was much harder to install because obviously the space between the fork where the cylinder sits was much tighter. I'm not sure what happened between the first time and second time (I had to pull the trans to fix output shaft seal leak) but something did..the very first time I installed the motor/trans into the car, I don't recall the slave being such a itch to put into place..
 

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I know for a fact that my clutch will need to be replaced when I pull my trans to rebuild 2/3...but I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again...
 
I don't think anything else would fit in there...line up with the TOB, line up with the slave...can't be that big of a coincidence...I ordered the parts straight from Mitsu for the exact year/model..
 
It could be an issue with the clutch/flywheel. Maybe, the pivot ball isn't screwed done all the way?

When you do the trans, compare the distance from the crank mounting surface on the back of the flywheel, to the pressure plate fingers, with the pressure plate torqued down, to a stock setup.

Also, by chance do you not have a plate between the engine and transmission?
 
No plate between the trans/engine on both cars. Stock setups on both cars...

I really doubt the pivot ball isn't screwed in but its a possibility which I will look into. Haven't separated the motor/trans yet but when I do will be sure to take some measurements. Thanks for the insight. BTW I have another VR4 at the shop on which I installed a XTD clutch last year...and his fork sits right at 12:00
 
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When you are in the process of mounting up trans to block, can you remove the dust cover and see inside where the fork before torquing everything to spec. There is something off in the geometry of the clutch pack and or flywheel. Has the flywheel been step properly? Clutch disk measured? Is the clutch fully disengaging when pedal pressed? It seems by the looks of it that it wouldn't and maybe over extend the pressure plate fingers as it looks like it's putting pressure on it without and pedal movement.
 
Thankfully the motor trans in the 99 are out of the car...so I will be taking a close up look at everything and posting pictures for you guys...as you may have guessed, the way it sits right now, the TOB is continuously touching the fingers of the PP. The Flywheel and Clutch combo on the 99 are brand new...on my car as well when I put it together 4 years ago, I got a new friction plate for the fidanza flywheel and new clutch kit.

On both cars, I did the test to see if the clutch drags by putting them into 1st gear on a flat level surface and revving the motor to 7k...the cars don't move. Stay tuned for pictures.
 
ohh...LOL

Yeah I have the plate on my car..im certain the 99 has it as well but I'll have to make sure. I'll be able to get my hands on it this week.
 
Well after getting a new fork and ball...this is the result...no bueno. :( Trans and motor are mated together in the video and picture...

EDIT: Its a video

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[DOUBLEPOST=1409672665][/DOUBLEPOST]More pictures...just disassembled the whole thing..

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[DOUBLEPOST=1409672698][/DOUBLEPOST]
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WIth no disc in the middle...
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Its a stock trans, IPS light Flywheel, SB stage 4 clutch...OEM TOB, OEM Fork and Ball...any ideas?
 
Can you also post a picture of the position of your fork? I've been told by some that its fine and nothing is wrong..
 
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