Can you explain a little better,
How is shorting, just by adding ground to the manifold?, head,???

Tell us what current you add to the engine, is it ground or positive?.
Sorry Im just confused.

If you complete a path from the chassis anywhere to the head or intake Mani, it sparks and shorts like there is power on the motor. The throttle cable if you try to hook it up to the throttle body it sparks and shit, anything metal that completes a path from it to the chassis sparks.

There might be a positive cable touching the chassis, you need to look for it, it is not easy when comes to electrical UUUFFFF

Yea you've somehow(???) got 12v on your intake. Also head and block. They all are connected. You've got a ground wire hooked up to the positive.

Only does it when alternator has main 12v wire on it.

Check the fuse box, the line might be touching a ground.
I would suggest to unbolt the line at the fuse box and connect it directly to the battery with a fuse and see what it does.
Also the same line could be grounding somewhere.

Your talking the main power line from the fuse box to the alternator?

Yes the 2 white lines running together,.

Those white wires go to the positive terminal on the alt - not to the alt body. If they are, then your alt has an internal short (possibly that terminal itself).

Yea I was thinking it could be the alternator itself?

Unhook the power wire from the alternator and the battery. Now do a continuity to ground test on the wire. If there is no continuity than like stated above you probably have an internal short to ground in the alternator.

Continuity to ground would consist of the multimeter positive on the alternator wire while off alt, then the negative on multi to the chassis?

Im more than positive you don't have the boot that covers the positive wire going to the starter and when you tightened it you made the wire hit the solenoid thus shorting out thru there. I had the same issue back then and same thing anything I would ground on the motor would short.

I think that's it I tore that boot, but it doesn't seem to be touching anything, I'll throw another boot on and try that! Makes sense as to why there's so much power on head and intake mani, the alternator was good when I pulled the motor out so I figure its Still good , I'll check all this this afternoon.

It should fix your problem bro. So did you ever find out why you had problems when installing the 6bolt? I remember your Instagram post

Yep had 2G intake gasket , held zero vacuum/ boost, easy to get stuff mixed up when there is 9000 parts and gaskets for 1 and 2Gs everywhere.

DSM Chase said:

Continuity to ground would consist of the multimeter positive on the alternator wire while off alt, then the negative on multi to the chassis?

Click to expand...

Yes with the multimeter set to continuity or just resistance (ohms) if there is no continuity setting.

"You must have the small plastic piece which separates the alternator casing from the internal bolt to prevent grounding out the system and blowing the fuse"...

Does the plastic separate the stud nut that screws into the alternator, or is the plastic to separate the 12V wire terminal that goes on it from the alternator body? Confusing

It separates the bolt (+) from the alternator housing but it also avoids the nut to touch the housing, so when you tight the nut it will touch the plastic instead the housing.

None of that worked, starter wire is good. Still only does it when alternator 12V terminal is on.N[DOUBLEPOST=1409691670][/DOUBLEPOST] Tried to spin it over with the battery charger on charge for the hell of it with alt disconnected, now the starter clicks really fast and loud and doesn't spin over, Everything still shorting out if it touches motor if the alternator 12v is on. I don't understand all these electrical components worked a week ago.

So you didn't have continuity to ground with the alternator wire, but you are grounding out with the wire hooked to the alternator. IF that is the case than the alternator is grounding internally. It would need to be replaced if this is the case. Go have it tested.

Would putting one lead on the 12v post on alt and one on the body give me continuity? That would mean its grounded right? Which you wouldn't want?

Yes, you are testing to see if that wire is grounded at some point, which it shouldn't be.

If I do it on the wire end itself to the body its not I haven't done it from the alternator post bolt yet to body....testing the alternator today.