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Resolved Need help identifying awful sound

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GSXWot

Probationary Member
7
0
Jun 19, 2014
London, ON_Canada
Hey folks, I need some suggestions as to where to start trouble shooting. I'll make this brief.
Started with clutch replacement. Notice power steering rack was bad. Ordered and replaced. Noticed exhaust manifold leak, as well as burning oil. Head job followed. Can't do all this and leave timing untouched. Did that. All put back together. All new fluids. All flushed. Crank it over yesterday, fixed small leaks, runs better then before. Run it for about 30mins - now it doesn't sound so good. I'm going to post a vid because it's too hard to explain.
Also it has been sitting for 8 months. Last 2 months I've gotten the time to rip it apart and do my list of repairs. I hope it's not the bottom end! :pray:
Also just finished compression test. On avg of 4 test's: cycl 1:161.25 cycl 2:161.75 cycl 3: 159 cycl 4: 163
Done after warmup.
Might pop the valve cover and check lifters. That's what I'm hoping for.
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Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Geeze. Id start with poping the covers and verifying the timing marks. No noise for the first half hr? I wonder if something was left loose. CEL on?
 
That kinda sounds like the idle noise when you switch to a lightweight flywheel in a car that originally had a dual mass flywheel to me. Rods and pistons typically sound more high pitched than that so I think you're safe there. It seems to go away when you rev it too which is the case when a dual mass gets swapped out for a lightweight single piece flywheel. At idle it'll sound like rocks in a can but after a certain rpm it goes away. Definitely check your clutch and flywheel.
 
Thanks guys. I'll double check the timing but I don't think there's issues their. I did notice after the video that when I press the clutch the notice dies down quite a bit. Almost non existent. But the noise sounds like on the block side. Maybe something in the transfer case. Flywheel is the same one just resurfaced. I did throw on a 6puck sprung disc. I wonder if that was to much force for the old girl.[DOUBLEPOST=1407713676][/DOUBLEPOST]Sounds like its right above the oil pan. What could this be? I don't want to rip more apart then I have too since I just finished :banghead:
 
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Have you tested for the noise with the clutch pushed in?
 
Yea I used the tool. If it wasn't aligned I'd assume I would have noticed right away. But like I said I can hear the noise diminish as I push in the clutch. So as the flywheel slows the noise quiets. Almost completely. But I don't fully understand the mechanics involved in that relationship. If someone could shed some light on that - I think it could narrow it down a bit.[DOUBLEPOST=1407887735][/DOUBLEPOST]I torqued to spec also- with thread locker. 14lbs I think. I've got oil pressure and great compression. Think I'll just keep googling for someone with a similar sound. :heystupid:
 
But like I said I can hear the noise diminish as I push in the clutch. So as the flywheel slows the noise quiets

Based on that I'd say the throwout bearing is suspect then. I know its hard to pinpoint a specific sound, but seeing as thats an item you replaced that may be worth looking into. I've heard of them being bad out of the box before.
 
throwout bearing or the pressure plate could be damaged/broken. could also be broken flywheel bolts.

had a chevy (yea i know) come into the shop, drove fine just puttering around, under load it bucked, clunked and didnt wanna haul a load. always made that dual mass flywheel sound, clunking around etc. tore it apart, turned out the crank had broke at the last journal and was spinning under load, and with some thrust on it with the clutch actuating, it was banging around.

but it could be anything!
 
Well, finally got a day to rip it apart. Again. After getting my bell houseing off I didn't notice any damage or signs of it. I almost didn't take my pressure plate off but I talked myself into it. I found a flywheel bolt backed out half way, and two others finger tight. Wth. On the install I Torqued to spec with red locetite. After 15km of driving at most I find this hard to believe.
Couple questions for ya'll. are the flywheel bolts torque to yield? Because I didn't replace them. I'm going to now but just curious. May explain that.
Now, I've got damage to my flywheel - the mateing surface to the crank. It appears I can have it machined. But would like to know if it's do able. And yes, I did have the clutch side machine first. Crank Surface has some smelting going on so I'll have clean that up somehow.
Anyways thought I'd give an update for anyone else that similar sound. Can't stand open treads.

thanks for everyone's input.

:hellyeah:
Crank side of flywheel:
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You can see the gouge at the top. I'd say at most 1/8 in depth
 
i had to replace my throw out bearing before and that was a squeaking sound until u pressed in your clutch.

glad you got it resolved.
 
I reused the original flywheel bolts. That's why I was curious if they were torque to yield.


Also wondering if there could be damage to crank? I don't think I drove it long enough for this to happen or even if it could.
 
Check the thickness of that flywheel where it meets the crank. Is it thinner than stock?

What's the thickness? I didn't check it before I put it in. But I just dropped it off to have the back(crank side) resurfaced due to damage. I've also ordered oem flywheel bolts for the install. I liked to know if this isn't going to work before I reinstall! Lol.
 
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