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420A LOUD squeal when pushing clutch

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96talon420a

10+ Year Contributor
108
0
Mar 9, 2012
billings, Montana
I was driving one day and everything seemed fine up until about 5 miles in of city driving when I pushed the clutch, threw the car in N to come to a stop and the LOUDEST squel happend when the clutch was in about 1/4 to all the way no matter what I was doing
Then after trying to get home about half way it stopped and there was no noise, then it came back again and went away...etc. its been doing this for the last couple of drives ive needed to do..
Shifting is always easy and the clutch depression feels fine all the time but it is annoyingly loud
Any ideas?
 
Did you lubricate the new bearing? I don't know the procedure for installing a new TOB but I do know bearings need grease, just like the ones in the wheel hubs and I usually put a lot but the hub inself holds the grease inside, i dunno what would hold grease against the clutch TOB, but I would at LEAST thoroughly lubricate the bearing before install. really I don;t see how the slave cyclinder could even make a noise at all, its just a pump with fluid inside, the pump pushes the fork, that pushes the TOB, the forks pivots like a see saw. Also did you inspect the TOB spindle for excesive wear? usually the bearing surfaces are smooth, but maybe your old bearing ran dry and burnt up, and by consequence it also messed up the tranny side surface, so a new bearing would eventually wear out excessivly as well. The pic of your old TOB is harsh and I would expect damage on the other side also. Are you sure you didnt put the original TOB back on by mistake? jk
 
the pilot bearing is in the center of the flywheel there should have been one in the clutch kit. and what the pilot bearing does is house and hold the end of your output shaft. i doubt that is what is making it squeal to me it sounds like you might have a bad tob. some times you get them like that. i had a 96 jeep cheeroke and my tob went out. i replaced it and 2 hours later it did the same thing. only problem was i had no clutch the tob was sepperated in 3.( new to the site just trying to help. im a mechanic at a shop. messed with alot of cars and stuff. but im stuck please look at my post 420a running rough) thanks please. hard times called for me to get two jobs. and my car barley runs.
 
Did you lubricate the new bearing? I don't know the procedure for installing a new TOB but I do know bearings need grease, just like the ones in the wheel hubs and I usually put a lot but the hub inself holds the grease inside, i dunno what would hold grease against the clutch TOB, but I would at LEAST thoroughly lubricate the bearing before install. really I don;t see how the slave cyclinder could even make a noise at all, its just a pump with fluid inside, the pump pushes the fork, that pushes the TOB, the forks pivots like a see saw. Also did you inspect the TOB spindle for excesive wear? usually the bearing surfaces are smooth, but maybe your old bearing ran dry and burnt up, and by consequence it also messed up the tranny side surface, so a new bearing would eventually wear out excessivly as well. The pic of your old TOB is harsh and I would expect damage on the other side also. Are you sure you didnt put the original TOB back on by mistake? jk

I did not put any lube on anything besides just cleaning the input shaft
What is the tob spindle? the new tob seemed good to me and there was little wear on the pressure plate teeeth
The reason i thought it would be slave cylinder is cause i was told by a couple of people that the slave or master cylinders were not giving sufficiant pressure so the TOB was just barley riding on the pressure plate and scraping it making the noise.

the pilot bearing is in the center of the flywheel there should have been one in the clutch kit. and what the pilot bearing does is house and hold the end of your output shaft. i doubt that is what is making it squeal to me it sounds like you might have a bad tob. some times you get them like that. i had a 96 jeep cheeroke and my tob went out. i replaced it and 2 hours later it did the same thing. only problem was i had no clutch the tob was sepperated in 3.( new to the site just trying to help. im a mechanic at a shop. messed with alot of cars and stuff. but im stuck please look at my post 420a running rough) thanks please. hard times called for me to get two jobs. and my car barley runs.

dont you think that that would not be a problem because the 2g 420a manual has a clutch pack and a second flywheel with a weird surface on the flywheel side that just rubs on the main flywheel
heres a pic of it if you can see what i mean
 

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Here is an update that I found out:
I removed the clutch master cylinder and i can start the car without turning the key just by pushing the clutch and with the master cylinder off the car still squeals without the slave cylinder even moving (being that there is no master cylinder) so it is not about the clutch now obviously:
What i did notice is on my clutch pedal right next to where it attaches to the master cylinder inside the car there is a little push switch that gets pushed in right when the clutch squek point happens and all i have to do is push the little button that is on the clutch pedal area and the squeal happens

ok fixed it was the clutch saftey switch
 
I am having a similar problem with a 1g awd. Had a loud squealing when I push the clutch pedal down. Transmission was about a 1/3rd quart low. Refilled it and it went away except in reverse I still get it bad. What I'm wondering is how the clutch safety switch would remedy such a sound he was having which he believed to be a bad throw out bearing? Is it really possible? My switch is bad also still, I have to reach under dash and physically push the button n by hand and wiggle it while I turn the key to start it half the time. Could my squeal problem really just be the safety start switch?
 
IT isn't the master cylinder, it wasn't the slave as others have told you. It kind of sounds like you might have excessive crank end play or something like that. When the clutch is pushed the transmission is disengaged to it should have nothing to do with the transmission.[DOUBLEPOST=1409548412][/DOUBLEPOST]
I am having a similar problem with a 1g awd. Had a loud squealing when I push the clutch pedal down. Transmission was about a 1/3rd quart low. Refilled it and it went away except in reverse I still get it bad. What I'm wondering is how the clutch safety switch would remedy such a sound he was having which he believed to be a bad throw out bearing? Is it really possible? My switch is bad also still, I have to reach under dash and physically push the button n by hand and wiggle it while I turn the key to start it half the time. Could my squeal problem really just be the safety start switch?

Think about it, how would an electrical switch make the car squeal. The answer is that it won't. It is just a switch that activates the starter relay.
 
ok, thank you bryanwheat. That's exactly what I assumed about what the O.P. said about his switch. I actually did watch the crank pulley/damper while someone repeatedly worked the clutch, and luckily had no movement. The rubber in my rear motor mount is completely shot and needs replaced though, whole motor and tranny flexes bad. Thanks again for clearing that up.
 
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