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Battle_Born

Probationary Member
21
2
Aug 23, 2014
Reno, Nevada
Hello! I have been lucky enough to have a come upon a 1995 GS-t Eclipse, I have never owned a Mitsu before or anything turbo for that matter!! A friends neighbor had the car, at some point swapped over another engine into it (the junkyard writing on it says a 1996 GSX engine, I THINK) apparently they did the whole swap got a 30 day moving permit on the car and one day it just stopped working, not wanting to work on it anymore and thinking it was worth nothing they just gave it to us! WIN!

So a year after receiving the car and just letting it sit (Didn't have the title, Long story, Now we do!) we looked into the problem and the car would turn over but produce no spark, checked every option and noticed A LOT of things aren't bolted down or plugged in. I notice that the Oil Position Sensor wasn't plugged in, get that taken care of and BAM car starts right up, runs great and I really enjoy driving it. (The one block drive I did! Ha)

So I have a few questions, (I looked through the searches and archives and hit quite a few dead links and what I found seemed a little dated.) First things: with a car that has newly swapped motor that may have things that aren't connected what should I ensure is set up or things they may have easily missed that I can repair? What are the major things I should do maintenance on and check before I start driving the car daily? I have only been able too find two "Free Mods" to start with are there more? The car came with a Aftermarket BOV and it seems to be dumping into the "Atmosphere" and I keep getting linked to the same post on what that means, I feel like a dummy but I really don't understand fully, Do I just need to route the open spot back into the intake?

Finally, is it worth it? I am in college making college student wages and this has been a bit of a godsend because my other car just broke down (Clutch and Water Pump) that I didn't want to fix anyways because it was boring as hell to drive, This car RUNS:thumb: but the car obviously needs work which is okay with me I have wanted a project and don't mind throwing my money into something fast and fun BUT I have been reading that the FWD cars are basically as bad as a non-turbo car in terms of performance, is it really that drastic? I am looking for a DD that I really want to get to the MID 13's someday, Should I just sell the thing and make my 100% profit and try and find a AWD?:confused:

Thanks for reading! Just a guy that is new to DSM's looking for a good place to start tinkering with it at.

(I promise I tried to use the search function the best I could! Just seemed to loop me around.)
 
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The first thing we did was check the compression in each cylinder which was between 125-135, checked fluids as well as the timing belt which seems brand new, I assume it was changed with the swap. I'm not some dumb kid turning the boost and expecting "tens" I'm asking what modifications to my vehicle I can do for free to make it run better. I appreciate your advice to make sure the car is in proper running order but I'm not the reason these cars have a "bad name"
 
I'd look into getting some decent wire and terminals and redo your grounds. Our cars have crappy stock grounds. Later cars seem to be better, but they still arent the best.


Yeah, I noticed that. Seems to be a bit of wiring issues, for example my left turn single is stuck always on
 
The first thing we did was check the compression in each cylinder which was between 125-135, checked fluids as well as the timing belt which seems brand new, I assume it was changed with the swap. I'm not some dumb kid turning the boost and expecting "tens" I'm asking what modifications to my vehicle I can do for free to make it run better. I appreciate your advice to make sure the car is in proper running order but I'm not the reason these cars have a "bad name"
Not saying you were the kind of guy giving a bad name but them compression numbers are low mine are around 165ish on all 4 with 90k miles i think your numbers are out of service limit (correct me if im wrong but think limit is 135)
 
I'd start by changing all fluids, any soft coolant hoses, making sure all vacuum lines have no leaks. Check for any oil leaks. Look at suspension and check for worn items and replace. Looks can always come later, I kept my GSX looking like a pile of crap but running great till I had sometime to paint it and focus on looks. The key to a great dd is the drive train, associated items, and maintenance.
 
I Re-checked compression myself this time after actually letting the car warm up and doing it correctly and it was still a little low but better which all were around 155. Thanks for all the help guys! I have been trying to track down all the vacuum leaks and it has been a challenge but every little thing I do gets the car running better and better!
 
I think you're off to a great start.

You: "Hey guys, what should I check?"

And after being offered some wisdom on these DSMS...

You: " Ok. I did it. "

Now... I've read a lot of...

"Wat can I do to make it a better? "

And after being offered a wealth of information, wiseman/proven member wisdom and web links to make the person's life easier and the car more reliable..

" Gawd you guys are useless i told u i want to make it faster. the carz fine!!! the last owner said.... "

So a lot of good advice has already been offered. I'm no Wiseman, and I wouldn't even consider myself a Proven Member yet. But I can tell you'll be just fine. This forum
is a gold mine of information and the combined wisdom from all the members is simply amazing. Welcome to the DSM community. <3 Oh wait! Here's something I use... since I live
in a ghetto area and I'm afraid of my car being stolen.. furthermore my alarm is also not working properly... I pull the engine fuse each night I have to park it on the street. Sorry if this is poorly written. I've been working 12 hours a day for the last few weeks trying to save up some money for some parts and to pay back a certain member on here that I am greatly indebted to. <3 <3
 
When a BOV releases to the atmosphere it means that the excess boost pressure is vented into the atmosphere as opposed to being recirculated back into the intake
 
Agree with poster about maintenance and up keep first then mods. Nothing worse then dumping in a bunch of money into upgrades into a car that needs alot of expensive repairs.
 
I Re-checked compression myself this time after actually letting the car warm up and doing it correctly and it was still a little low but better which all were around 155. Thanks for all the help guys! I have been trying to track down all the vacuum leaks and it has been a challenge but every little thing I do gets the car running better and better!


How is everything coming along?
 
Stop with the word mod please not trying to be a jurk but dont do anything mpre until you put a new oem timing belt or better like a gates blue greddy hks also do same for balance shaft belt change the timing tensioner both the pully and the hydrolic tensioner do the waterpump while you are there change the oil and coolant too at this time do all this and you will have a strong running car if it was all good before hand and if i were you before doing anything at all rent a compression tester or buy one you honna want one in the dsm world check the engine see what its doing same for a leakdown test because if it fails either no sense in moving forward with mods because your engine needs a rebuild and that is why these cars have a bad name kids get them mod them zero up keep and boom not worth blowing up a free car you could put a few hundred into and not have anything to worry about while you mod it

Holy crap. That was the longest sentence I have ever seen. And you didn't use a single period. Well done my friend.
 
nice find bro, deff keep it. nothing like free. and from first hand experience anyone saying fwd blah blah blah needs to stop. just because you had one and couldn't drive doesn't mean its slow. plus most that say that only know how to dump the clutch on a AWD. I have beat countless rwd, awd etc cars with higher hp with both my fwd dsms. It all comes down to driving it bro. Look at the 14b record, a fwd car. Kiggly running 8.2 fwd. Im not saying any car is better or worse, just that it isn't slow by any means than an awd car. I mean from the facrory the gst and gsx was off by .1 of a second in the 1/4 mile.

Anyways, what are your goals for the car? if your just trying to make it run right and be reliable, it shouldn't be too hard with all the information on here.

again, great find bro, its a blessing.

God Bless,

Anthony B.

155 is better. I would do a leak down test next and see what you come up with. The vac lines aren't that hard to figure out, theres many diagrams on here that you can go off. I will try to link one for you. Keep up the good work.
 
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So update time was having a issue for a bit with the car running like absolute garbage after going WOT, and throwing a random misfire code turned out to be a crap ground, up by the fuel rail. Fixed that car was running ok, decided that I should clean the intercooler and run a boost leak test since the people who owned it before obviously neglected it.

Went to the hardware store and picked up the proper things to make a boost leak tool, went to start to check the manifold for leaks when we noticed a good amount of oil in the pipes and decided just to take the inter cooler off and do the boost leak test after we get everything together....low and behold the imtercooler is dinged up to hell and dumped out a TON of oil but doesn't leak! Wheeweww, we celebrated the "win" of it not being toast. I go to check the turbo for shaft play and not only is it side to side like mad but in and out like a teenager losing his virginity!


So sooner than I hope I shall be replacing the turbo was hoping to upgrade to a 16g but due to budget restraints since I just started work again this week might be stuck replacing it with a stocky or rebuilding(haven't looked into that option at all.)
 

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If it's the stock T-25 you can probably find one for about $50 - $75 without in/out/side-side. If you're on the stock set-up.. and want to go the 14b/16G route you'll need the turbo itself... $100 - $150 14B, $200 - $400 16G.
 
Battle_Born you lucky sob :) Think 99% of us here are jealous!

First thing you will learn about the dsm community, if you don't have a GSX people will always tell you to sell your car and go GSX! Just ignore them :)

Second, The car is in nice shape!! No rust on the towers, that's hard to come by! Have you run the block numbers to see if the kids did something smart "besides give you the car :)" and put a 6 bolt block in?

Third, Your turn signal that always stays on, it's not wiring, that's just a defective turn signal lever/switch box. I hate em, but autozone sells em new for like 50-60$.

4th.. Since your turbo is bad, you can put the stock T-25 on it, or upgrade to the T-28. Keep in mind upgrading the turbo means you will have to upgrade other parts as well to not blow your load to early.

If you decide on the upgrade, which I'd say do it, the T-25 leaves you wanting sooo much more pick up this stuff, I've been researching for a while as I'm doing the same, figured I'd share with you!. Posting below.[DOUBLEPOST=1410803515][/DOUBLEPOST]To start First pick up a
Do all required maintenance first.
Timing Belt is a must.

Boost Gauge - Good Quality
Manual Boost Controller. "Voodoo - Ebay works fine, Hallman is a good name brand, make sure it's got a ball in it.
FMIC - Intercooler
Recirculated blow off valve - name brand or 1g blow off valve "you can crush it later for a few extra psi" - also do the reducer removal "mod"
Proper sized oil return line for the T-28
Run at lowest boost setting and slowly work up to what the stock psi 12-14.

Anything much more and you will run into fuel cut, blow off valve leakage "unless you go aftermarket", need a Wideband, tuning of some sort, ect.

I'm sure i'm forgetting something, or missing something, as I"m not a pro, just an avid reader and DIY'r DSM'r :D

GSX's are top notch for stop light and slow roll launches!
GST's Kill GSX's on the Freeway, or from a roll supporting traction mods.
 
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Thank you all so much for your help! Just a little annoyed by the guy still commenting about compression when I already stated I did the test again and all cylinders were within ~5 give or take of 155 psi. Other than that been working on the car a lot here and there, We had some issues with the throttle position sensor, Idle Biss, and a few other things we fixed, Tested for boost leaks and have them like mad and the intercooler had a hole in it! So we are just going front mount when we replace the turbo(Which is also toast) and fix the rest of the lines, Doing this all on virtually no budget but no reason to replace broken parts with OEM stuff..

Also, We have been doing a lot of body work just sanding and fixing body panels since that is free! Got the car mostly primered and ready for proper paint. Slowly but surely she is being revived.
 
It doesn't matter. I was just thoroughly impressed.


Ray? Scott air force base back a few yrs ago? Just curious cause your usrname is similar. The last name is just unique, thought id ask... If not, nvm[DOUBLEPOST=1411869602][/DOUBLEPOST]
nice find bro, deff keep it. nothing like free. and from first hand experience anyone saying fwd blah blah blah needs to stop. just because you had one and couldn't drive doesn't mean its slow. plus most that say that only know how to dump the clutch on a AWD. I have beat countless rwd, awd etc cars with higher hp with both my fwd dsms. It all comes down to driving it bro. Look at the 14b record, a fwd car. Kiggly running 8.2 fwd. Im not saying any car is better or worse, just that it isn't slow by any means than an awd car. I mean from the facrory the gst and gsx was off by .1 of a second in the 1/4 mile.

Anyways, what are your goals for the car? if your just trying to make it run right and be reliable, it shouldn't be too hard with all the information on here.

again, great find bro, its a blessing.

God Bless,

Anthony B.

155 is better. I would do a leak down test next and see what you come up with. The vac lines aren't that hard to figure out, theres many diagrams on here that you can go off. I will try to link one for you. Keep up the good work.


True, true. Fwd can and are actually faster. But the tranny must surely be an AT and the front may need custom work to fit tires so big. There's a whole thread on here with thousands of posts from fwd guys. Nothing wrong with a lighter car, look at it that way. Personally I have never owned an awd and want to feel what a true launch is like without spending a fortune to make it hook as well as an awd. But any dsm for free? you cant beat it!
 
Not trying to start a debate, but it doesn't cost a fortune to launch the fwd hard. You can OM me if you'd like to talk more about it. For me to pull better 60' then guys with more HP then me and being AWD shows I can do it, but like I said, it is in the driver. It may take more practice, but I can tell you from first hand experience with my fwd and me driving many others (friends ask me to drive at the track) that it can be done and not spending no where near a fortune.

Anthony B.
 
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