The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

need help pls!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JDsM20

Proven Member
41
1
Jun 11, 2014
San diego, California
Im giving up on my dsm :( cant seem to find a way to fix this... I missd two weeks of my work because of this car :( I dont have enough money to go to a shop to have them fix and also I dont know any shop here in san diego that knows dsm :( at least help me guys or I am forced to quit my job and sell the car :(

Here is the problem:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also my boost gauge were different
And while driving I can hear like a a vibrating sound coming from the passenger side when I press the brake when I slow down ?

I know this is a probably a boost leak but I dont have any tester or any tool that can provide it I just want my car to get fixed or I am going to sell her :( then after I drove the car rhe fan turn on then the video happens car rpm drops to 200 then died need help plsss I dont want to sell her
 
Well for starters maybe tell is what happen leading up to this? Have you searched the forums for similar problems?

A boost leak tester is very easy to make and very cheap to make as well. You can buy everything from your local hardware store.

I would also invest in a multiple meter and check the throttle position sensor and the idle air control.

I would also check to see if your BISS is out of wack or maybe leaking threw the o ring, my TB had that problem and my car idled low too. It's a simple o ring less than a buck at any hardware store.

It can be something very very simple, don't give up.

Anthony B.
 
Last edited:
Yeah ive been searching for 2 months now and i dont have the tools to make it and do the test as i am new here

Thanks for the feedback will check the BISS screw since i dont have the rubber piece anymore last owner took it off i guess

The thing is i dont have money to buy any multi meter or any other tools because i am going to a vocational school an need money fpr it :(
 
Vibrating while braking could be warped rotors, if one side is worse than I suspect that a caliper is possibly hanging up. Hard braking or a hanging caliper will heat up the rotor and warp it. If your in an emergency mess with the biss until you get 1000rpm idle. Rpm will drop with the use of electrical accessories (fan, wipers, speaker system). Info can be found on how to properly set your idle but until you boostleak test that's pointless.
 
Well its not vibrating at all it sounds like its coming from the intake or bov ?
 
Bov should only blow off once since its activate by vacuum when the throttle plate closes. Is the bov still recirculating? if so and it failed it wouldn't cause your idle problem, if its vented it will. To my knowledge the 2g bov sux and are prone to failure, you can find 1g bov in the classifieds pretty cheap.

As far as boost leaks aside from loose clamps or obvious holes in your ic piping or vacuum tubing its going to next to impossible to pinpoint a boost leak. Biss oring, throttle body shaft seals, vacuum lines, gaskets? Boost leak tester is cheap just find a friend with an air compressor and you can get a basic multimeter at harbor freight for under 10$. Best I can say.. maybe some of the wisemen will have better answers.
 
Yeah bov is recirculated so probably the bov it self is bad probably changed it after this money crisis im having :( i probably have leak on my throttle or my biss o ring do i still need a BLT for that too ? Thanks for helping bro i appriciate you taking the time to help out!
 
Before anything you need to do a boost leak test. If you can't affort a boost leak tester than sell it and buy a honda. I hate to sound blunt, but these cars can be pricey to maintain and require a lot more maintenance than other cars.
 
I can afford to fix it but not right now you know im starting school on september and i need the money for tuition thats why i cant afford to spend money on it right now
 
The only reasons Ive stuck with dsm's is because I have access to all the tools I need to fix um, aside from being a blast to drive. Working maintenance and having a father who worked maintenance helps :)

Daily driven awd 1g for 11years this month!
 
Before anything you need to do a boost leak test. If you can't affort a boost leak tester than sell it and buy a honda. I hate to sound blunt, but these cars can be pricey to maintain and require a lot more maintenance than other cars.
What Bryan said... if you don't have a little bit of money to buy the proper tools for diagnosis and maintenance (like a BLT) or the time to research and actually do the work, you're just going to have more headaches in the future. These are older turbocharged cars, and like any other old turbocharged car they are finicky and quirky. You'll come to realize you cannot depend on mechanics too much with these cars, as mechanics just don't have the experience with them. A boost leak test is something you do regularly as leaks cause a lot of problems, which means you need access to an air compressor. You'll want more tools.

Honestly, I'm not sure a boost leak is to blame for this issue. But it's good to make sure you're not battling a few separate issues. I would try keyword searches for "very low idle". Or do a search with "set idle" or "idle adjustment" and limit it to username "steve" and you'll get tons of great info, like this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-test-readings-need-help.79304/#post-660531

As for your vibration sound while braking, if it only happens under braking that should pretty much tell you it's the braking system you need to inspect. Maybe something stuck in between the pad and rotor. I would do a thorough inspection of the brake components on that side. If you can reproduce the problem outside of braking that opens up the possibilities quite a bit.
 
looks like it's idling way too low, did you check if the cars engine light is on? cause pep boys will check the codes for free.
I noticed in the video you sent one of the lights flickers as the shuddering/vibrating occurs at 015-018 video time line could be a snapped balance shaft belt if I had an issue like this out of nowhere thats where I'd be checking first just to stay on the safe side of things.
 
Kind of seems like the shaking is caused by the engine idling so low and almost dying. My process to fix this would be check for boost leaks, than set the base idle properly. Than if a problem still persists pull the iacv and test it with a multimeter. Than as stated above check to make sure that the timing and balance shaft belts are in good shape and everything is set properly. If you have never done it than a timing job would be a good idea at this point, as well as a compression test, new plugs and so on.
 
I had a check engine light code.. I have a scan tool and the code was p0340 camshaft postioned sensor missing.. I have a 1g cas on the car right now will that be a problem ? Also my boost gauge read different first it was on 15 now its on 20?

Last owner said he rebuild the head so timing belt was replaced and all that and it looks new when i checked for CAS

I had a compression test before i bought the car and it was like 140 something across

Planning to change the spark plugs, wire, pcv when i finish my school and get a real job this upcoming months

I wanted to know more about thisncar because i was planning to get an evo 8 or 9

Will a throttle body being bad can cause this? I might just buy a boost leak tester on the vendors here or some site just gunna ask for money LOL
 
btw is the video you posted of the car wormed up, or is it just started?

you could do some basic stuff like check the operation of the isc, It would also be a good idea to clean it and its chamber on the throttle body too [if it needs it].
also the coolant temp sensor might be bad,but all the other stuff suggested would also be worth investigating first, especially the boost leak test, you can make a good boost leak tester via parts from HDR [home depot racing LOL] and then go to a friends house that has an air compressor and test it all in an afternoon or less.[tip: keep the air compressor regulator adjusted on a psi settings close to what your cars boost setting is or lower... about 10-15 psi stock 2g]
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Has the car always idled like this or did it just start? How long have you owned it? Has it run normal in the past? What other things are not normal? You're providing a lot of little pieces of info in each reply. Give a full history of the car, all things that have been done, and all relevant info up front. Everyone here is just going to be guessing with very little to go on. The possible issues can change drastically with each new piece of information you provide.
 
Sounds like the cas isn't wired up properly if you have a code like that. That would of been very important in the first post.
 
btw is the video you posted of the car wormed up, or is it just started?

you could do some basic stuff like check the operation of the isc, It would also be a good idea to clean it and its chamber on the throttle body too [if it needs it].
also the coolant temp sensor might be bad,but all the other stuff suggested would also be worth investigating first, especially the boost leak test, you can make a good boost leak tester via parts from HDR [home depot racing LOL] and then go to a friends house that has an air compressor and test it all in an afternoon or less.[tip: keep the air compressor regulator adjusted on a psi settings close to what your cars boost setting is or lower... about 10-15 psi stock 2g]
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

thats when after i drove the car like 10 to 20 minutes right when the fan came on i let it coold down then that happened[DOUBLEPOST=1409336188][/DOUBLEPOST]
Has the car always idled like this or did it just start? How long have you owned it? Has it run normal in the past? What other things are not normal? You're providing a lot of little pieces of info in each reply. Give a full history of the car, all things that have been done, and all relevant info up front. Everyone here is just going to be guessing with very little to go on. The possible issues can change drastically with each new piece of information you provide.

well i got the car on june. everything was good running okay. then i went back to stock parts, exhaust and bov. had a minor leak on flex pipe the guy on exhuast shop said and then after smogging it >< after couple weeks car started to run poorly. Started the car one day with a check engine, turned off the car before i went home CEL still there then i turned it off again then thats when everything downhill. tried to turn it on but i can only start for a few secs then dies.[DOUBLEPOST=1409336270][/DOUBLEPOST]
Sounds like the cas isn't wired up properly if you have a code like that. That would of been very important in the first post.

how do i know if its not wired up correctly? would it be just a misfire or no?
 
Last edited:
how do i know if its not wired up correctly? would it be just a misfire or no?

Look over the harness with the r.r.e instructions see link below.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96M2.htm[DOUBLEPOST=1409345185][/DOUBLEPOST]I think you should inspect the cas if you feel it was done wrong see if it is installed correctly if it is 180* off it might cause this also check the wire connectors on every sensor under the hood thats a free test you can do, if any one of them is damaged or disconnected fix it.
 
Last edited:
I started the car today and this happened

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Then after awhile

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top