The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Head to NAPA and get you a Gates belt.

They're not that all expensive and have a real good duration to the service installed.

If you want cheap, cheap and horribly cheap and on wanting to sell the vehicle in a short amount of time, then head to the competitors.

(EDIT: I removed the store's name)
 
Last edited:
Head to NAPA and get you a Gates belt.

They're not that all expensive and have a real good duration to the service installed.

If you want cheap, cheap and horribly cheap and on wanting to sell the vehicle in a short amount of time, then head to Autozone

+1 on the gates belt. -1 on the cheap belt. That is probably why the op is in the position he is in. Some @ss going cheap because they were selling it soon.
 
+1 on the gates belt. -1 on the cheap belt. That is probably why the op is in the position he is in. Some @ss going cheap because they were selling it soon.

I ordered a Gates kit off of Rock Auto, should be here Friday. Honestly the belt breaking was my own fault, I should have known better. The last owner neglected the whole car, it's been an adventure with what I've had to replace. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original belt.
 
when I mentioned cheep belt, I indeed did not mean an Autozone T belt I meant a good stock after-market belt
[that is cheaper then the oem in price] like the aforementioned gates ones, but more importantly something that will let the op cheaply confirm his valves did not crash into the piston crowns, [since he does not want to waste lots of money on a badly damaged motor].

If it is indeed still a good motor and all after swapping the t belt I'd say get something really good, like the whole oem timing kit that vendors sell on here if you intend to keep the car for a while [and want it to be reliable] this is a must, and don't forget to buy [or lend from a friend] the proper tools to do the t belt job right.
 
I normally ride a motorcycle everywhere, but that blew a head gasket and has been out of commission for a while. My Eagle was just my winter car, but I was planning on using it for rally or auto cross once I get a few more things fixed. Even if the valves are bent, I think I'd pull the head and rebuild it. If it needs a new motor, then I would have to let it go. It's been a good learning experience though, I've always been a BMW guy before this.
 
it goes into the hole on the driver side motor mount bracket, and it forces the tensioner in a closed position so you can wrap the belt around the cams, and then tension the tensioner pulley via bolting it on, then remove the bolt tool and rotate the engine three times and see if it all lines up again.
you can watch this video to see the whole procedure...I know you likely have a 7 bolt motor but the procedure should be similar
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I need some help again. I got the whole thing back together, and she runs. But she runs really bad. The idle is way high, and it's super rough. I think my timing is off, just wanted to check with you guys. Here's the lower timing mark with the top timing marks aligned:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Does that look right, or is it too high? When I put the timing cover and crankshaft pulley back on, the lower timing mark is aligned with the blue arrow. Shouldn't it be aligned to the red arrow?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[DOUBLEPOST=1409416695][/DOUBLEPOST]So I changed the crankshaft timing to match the red arrow in the above photo. She runs better, but I'm pretty sure I have bent valves. I need to figure out what to do next, if I want to just get rid of it or pull the head and have new valves put in. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
Last edited:
No, the big thing is if the cam sprocket marks were set straight across with the dowel pins at the 12:00 position when the belt was laid over the sprockets and clipped down.

Then, you lace up the belt to ensure all marks are where they need to be - and that's both BS sprocket marks, and the important thing is the oil pump BS being in phase.
 
No, the big thing is if the cam sprocket marks were set straight across with the dowel pins at the 12:00 position when the belt was laid over the sprockets and clipped down.

Then, you lace up the belt to ensure all marks are where they need to be - and that's both BS sprocket marks, and the important thing is the oil pump BS being in phase.
The camshaft marks are aligned with the pins at 12:00. I removed the plug from the rear of the block and made sure I could insert a screwdriver 3 inches so the oil sprocket in the the correct position. My only doubt was when the lower timing cover was put back on, it wasn't pointing to TDC. Right now I'm waiting on a friend to get me his compression tester, but I'll likely be pulling the head for some valve work.
 
After i put my eprom i cant get the car to start, i rearranged the spark plugs and selected the non 95 cas option, but still nothing. i reset the setting to stock because everything is stock as in maf and injectors.. my ecu is working properly and the board looks good i dont know what the problem could be. im also running firmware 3.17.142 i dont know if that has anything to do with it
 
Do you have a 96 to 99? 95 was the only year that can be turned into a link ecu, and that 1 year had a different firing order. 1342 I believe. hope this helps.
 
I would verify that the ecu is actually working, and that the plugs are sparking and the injectors are firing.
 
I would verify that the ecu is actually working, and that the plugs are sparking and the injectors are firing.
it works it connects and it starts for maybe 3 seconds. its a 95 i believe part numbers match up[DOUBLEPOST=1410146448][/DOUBLEPOST]
Do you have a 96 to 99? 95 was the only year that can be turned into a link ecu, and that 1 year had a different firing order. 1342 I believe. hope this helps.
can u clearify the spark plug orders its a little confusing LOL
 
Last edited:
it works it connects and it starts for maybe 3 seconds. its a 95 i believe part numbers match up[DOUBLEPOST=1410146448][/DOUBLEPOST]can u clearify the spark plug orders its a little confusing LOL

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
If you have two separate coil packs like I do on my 1g GVR4 its wasted spark so doesnt matter how you put your plug leads as long as 2&3 are on the same coil and 1&4 on the other. Each set must be on the correct coil however.
Im just saying say you have 1&3 on a coil it doesnt matter which way they are around.
 
Last edited:
it works it connects and it starts for maybe 3 seconds. its a 95 i believe part numbers match up[DOUBLEPOST=1410146448][/DOUBLEPOST]can u clearify the spark plug orders its a little confusing LOL

So it starts for 3 seconds than dies? Why are you concerned about firing order if it starts at all. you can still have an ecu issue even though you can connect with your lap top.[DOUBLEPOST=1410148463][/DOUBLEPOST]
If you have two separate coil packs like I do on my 1g GVR4 its wasted spark so doesnt matter how you put your plug leads as long as 1&3 are on the same coil and 2&4 on the other. Each set must be on the correct coil however.
Im just saying say you have 1&3 on a coil it doesnt matter which way they are around.

It is actually 1 and 4 than 2 and 3.
 
Oh it is. 1&4
2&3.
Opps. My cars been sitting for 3 years. Just getting back into forum whoring and researching. Ill edit the post.
 
i had it wired up right, and i hope its nothing with my ecu but iv taken it apart and the caps and everything looks clean and new. it starts and shuts off the same way it does with a bad cam sensor.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top