You'll need dsmlink, wideband, and of course I would go with a few extra upgrades. If you keep the boost around 12 psi you'll be fine until you can get it tuned.

If you read what other people said, "He's got 450cc stock manual injectors in this thing with a wally 255, which the pump is way too powerful with those small injectors". running the car would be alright but not for long (depending on how far the drive), would recommend going back to stock fuel pump for now. Have you test drove the car yet? Remote tuned? I would say closes thing to a remote tune would be SAFC 2 .. Just be ready for putting money down into the car and don't rush things because that's how things break.

Thanks very helpfull. You guys rock, funny thing for you, the guy told me to use this forum for help and every one said don't buy his car that's kind of funny

Just to clear some things up a little.... will it damage the car to run it without having it tuned? Depends how far off the tune is and the condition of the motor. Nobody here could possibly know if it's running too lean to be able to answer your question with any accuracy. So the answer is, YES, it's extremely possible you could damage it. And at the same time, it could be just fine. You decide how much of a risk you want to take by not getting it tuned right away. That would be the first thing I do.

The fuel pump is more than you need but there is no reason to change it back to a stock pump. The worst that can happen is the the stock fuel pressure regulator is being over run, and even that isn't a terribly big deal except for at idle. Get an adjustable FPR and you're good - much easier than changing the pump. Chances are you're going to modify something soon enough to where you're going to want the 255 pump anyway.

And no, an SAFC-2 has nothing to do with remote tuning as mentioned above. In fact an SAFC-2 is impossible to use as a tool for remote tuning, and it's an older tuning tool that isn't used much anymore. Remote tuning is typically done on these cars using ECMlink (formerly known as DSMlink) and involves someone like @MY1GDSM logging into your laptop remotely via remote connection software while it's plugged into your ECU, as you're doing test pulls in the car on the street. That person will look at the data from your pulls and will make changes to the tune. It's like having someone sitting in the passenger seat next to you doing the tuning. You'll want to go through a pre-tuning check list first, which you can find here on the site somewhere with some keyword searches (I'd search the Tech Articles section).

As with any modded car, you're rolling the dice. But I don't see anything that would scare me away besides the fact that it's modded. And trying to find an untouched DSM is impossible. Luckily, fixing most things that go wrong on these cars is relatively cheap compared to most other options you have at this price point. But it still requires money, so plan on having extra money on hand because chances are you'll need it.

I can put my hands on a 91 AWD auto, completely stock, runs and drives great, less than 100k original miles and no rust. here in the memphis area for about $2500 maybe less by now. I wouldnt give them over $2k for the one your looking at, more likely I wouldnt give $1200 if its rusted bad in all the wrong spots. IE suspension pieces, rockers, fenders, struts and towers. definitely look it over good especially under the car. a little surface rust might not look bad until you try getting the struts, brakes and suspension bushings replaced and end up with a rusted up nightmare.

Thoughts on this? He's had it for a quite a while now, so probably can get it for $4000. Title has 6 owners on it, and he bought it at auction. Has no paperwork for the stuff hes done on it either, probably needs to be tuned. Also is 2 hours away. Any advice or info is helpful!
Gsx-t. 98 eclipse 4wd boosting 28psi

EVO3 16G TURBO--CX RACING FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER W MODIFIED
J-PIPE-- RRE STEALTH CATBACK EXHAUST W/ MAGNAFLOW 3" MUFFLER AND RRE 3" DOWNPIPE --PTE 1000cc INJECTORS--DEJON TOOL INTAKE AND MBC (MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER) WALBRO 225 LPH HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP-- MIZU 2G RADIATOR--DYNO TUNE W/COMPUTER REMAPPING (on 91 OCTANE)

17x7 OZ-racing 353's in ALL SATIN BLACK 5x100-- 5x114 BOLT PATTERN (LIFETIME STRUCTURE WARRANTY) and LEXANI LX-SEVEN's (225x45x17)

EVO8 CRANK-NEW CAM AND REAR MAIN SEALS--NEW MAIN AND ROAD BEARINGS--NEW PISTON RINGS-REBUILD OF SHORT BLOCK--BALANCE SHAFT ELIMATOR KIT-- NEW WATER AND OIL PUMPS--NEW HEAD, INTAKE MAKING. TRANNY PAN AND WATER PUMP GASKETS--ARP HEAD STUDS
Greedy profec-B spec 2 boost controller
Steptronic box for manual shifting
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/4562743671.html

So I am currently looking for an AWD 2g, and have found a couple cars. Just need to get some opinions from the veterans.
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4637241137.html
^ Not running, little information
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4601099978.html
^offered 4k, won't go below 5.
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4573886948.html
^ price opinion for gs-t?

the first one looks to be your best option as its clean, low mileage, unmolested and the best looking in my opinion. it also seems to have less wrong with it and things less likely to go wrong as no one has had there tooner hands in there yet.

I agree with RsAWD. Can probably get it for a lot less than the asking price. Any used car will have to be gone thru just to make sure it is mechanically sound. This one looks like a good platform to start with. I would offer 1k, leaves a lot of cash for a rebuild if necessary.

Tsi non running, won't take less than 2k. The gs-t is accepting 700. Thoughts?

Non running TSI, wait awhile and the price will come down. That engine is the one that had issues of crankwalk I believe. If the car was easily fixed he would have already done it himself. Personally I feel 2k is way to much for a non op DSM.

How do you know the tranny is good. Can't check anything out with it not running.

The 2nd one, hands down. Even from the one pic of the exhaust i can see the underside looks relatively rust free. Little things you might need to do and he better have some serious receipts to back it up.
Do a compression test and make sure its not making any noises out of the drivetrain. The suspension alone is worth a ton. 5k is a very good price and i dont imagine it lasting long
Edit: Im assuming the body and paint are as good as they look in the pics. If its dented up then he needs to back off a few hundred. Probably wont though and he will get 5k or damn close to it.

The gs-t? Sure its cheaper but you will want awd if you get into the 400+ power range. Im just telling you from experience and i think a lot of others would back me. If its fwd, automatic, and the suspension and tires are set up right then yea, it could be fun and actually hook. I just got tired of spinning the tires at up to 80mph. An awd wont do that.

OK sooo more info.
Non running tsi: Said he drove it as a daily, and one day he went out to start it and it just wouldn't start up. Cranks over but doesn't fire. I'm thinking about doing a compression test on it and offering him 1.3k if it fails. Only problem is he lives 2 hours away.

5k tsi: would buy it for 4.3k, that's what I offered him. He wont budge from the 5k. Been there for about a month now. Had it at 7k originally. I have no doubt its a great car, but 5k for a 15year old car seems quite a bit.

Gs-T: So the kid trying to sell it said he only had the car for about a week before he noticed it was not running right. The good:super cheap ($700), no rust, good body, clean title. The bad: needs rebuilt, said it runs but pretty poorly, blown head gasket, cheap eBay a turbo (he noticed after buying unfortunately), And it has 208k miles ( worried about that a bit).

Guess it comes down to whether you want a fwd or an awd. But factor in the paint job and mods and you're gonna easily run past 5 grand. Paint and body work is expensive. 3k went in to mine, then another (guesstimate) 10k in parts/labor. Look at the long term. There is certainly more sense of accomplishment in taking a beater and making it great but only if you have a lot of time and dont loose sight of the goal. Best of luck and let us know which is the lucky car!

boost97gst said:

Guess it comes down to whether you want a fwd or an awd. But factor in the paint job and mods and you're gonna easily run past 5 grand. Paint and body work is expensive. 3k went in to mine, then another (guesstimate) 10k in parts/labor. Look at the long term. There is certainly more sense of accomplishment in taking a beater and making it great but only if you have a lot of time and dont loose sight of the goal. Best of luck and let us know which is the lucky car!

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I was wondering why some people were saying it's not worth 5k, in fact I'm in the area and if I didn't already have two dsm's, I would own that right now for 5k and feel fine about the price. I love that paint job too. I'm with you 5k seems fair, the wife would kill me if I brought another one home... or would she

In all honesty, I would get it if I had the money, but I just can't seem to get 5k all at once, and then if I did, and spent it all, I'm in need of money for the rest of the year for school and jazz

Im about to jump in the expedition hook a trailer up and hit the road! Oh wait, my wife would f ing kill me too!
2 non running dsms already. But that IS a good deal and its clean as a whistle

http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4637241137.html
So he is accepting 1300 for it. I'm probably just gonna go pick it up. And pray it's a simple fix. If not, it's still awd, 90k original miles car haha
thoughts?

I say go for it. I got mine for 1300 in far worse shape. (Mine came in pieces)
I had no prior mechanical experience, and it is now running great, but I also dumped 3K into it.

I found this GST which was priced at around $1,500 in my currency. The car hasn't run in a year and has what I believe to be a poorly done 6 bolt conversion.

Looks rough, i would offer like 600 at the most for it.

Maybe more than 600 if everything else looks fine and your positive you can fix it. But not by much.

Does the engine look rebuildable?

Ben_Estrella said:

Does the engine look rebuildable?

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It is impossible to tell you if it is rebuildable by looking at it. From the engine bay it looks like the engine might be the least of your worries. There appears to be some wiring issues going on by the fuse box.

I wouldnt pay 1500 for it my gst was that much and ran when i bought it and has 90k on it and looks way better than that