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Cyclone Intake Setup, is this right?

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Nate355RS

Proven Member
446
50
Oct 25, 2012
Salem, Virginia
I have a cyclone intake manifold and I'm trying to set it up to be RPM activated by the FPRS. I found this diagram online and it seems pretty simple and I have all the parts but I'm not sure this is right, or if I'm reading this right.

Does the canister flow one way from B to A? It makes sense how I'm thinking about it, and that's with boost pressure causing the butterflies to actuate.

But if the canister flows A to B I'm not sure how the FPRS or the actuator would work. I guess I'm just confused at where the air travels in this diagram and how the FPRS shutting could make the butterflies open. From what I can tell intake is normally closed so it uses the long runners at low RPM, and air flow has to make it to the actuator to open the butterflies to the short runners. But I don't see how closing the FPRS at a set RPM can do this. Especially since I could be seeing either boost or vacuum at that RPM.

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I think the fprs and dsmlink is the way to go, anyway I'm going to try the t25 wg mod with my ciclone.

Why you think is better to operate it by Rpm??
I've been searching and reading a lot, and if you use a WG you are sure that runners will start open just when your turbo has spooled, you only have to choose the appropiate WG for your setup and you know when your turbo hits X psi runners are open, and you don't need the canister.
Excuse me for my english but is dificult to explain
 
After reading a lot of posts by people much smarter than I am, I think I'm going to go with the ECMLink RPM activation. From what I understand the intake is designed benefit from something called the Heholtz resonance, which is based on airflow at a specific RPM, and not dependant on boost. But that's a whole other discussion.

I'm still a little confused about how the this works. The link posted above said the actuator gets vacuum from the intake manifold, which means air flows from A to B in the picture above. The canister is one way, so as soon as I build boost I don't think it would matter if the FPRS is closed, because the canister has already stopped airflow? Sorry if I'm being dense, just don't see how the actuator can open and close by RPM and nut be based in boost or vacuum.
 
The cyclone actuator is vacuum actuated. The actuator that came with the cyclone IM that I'm running now originally had a blown diaphragm. -I can only guess that it was due to someone before me supplying boost & vacuum to it, rather than just vacuum only.

After replacing it, I used a one-way check valve on the vacuum line that goes between the IM & the vacuum canister. This way the canister and actuator will only see atmosphere & vacuum, thus holding the actuator open whenever the solenoid is allowing vacuum through it.

I am activating the solenoid that opens the cyclone via DSMLink and I would highly recommend doing the same for the sake of tuning.
 
i am curious to see if you guys notice a lean spike in you wideband at WOT when the cyclone activates.

happens to both my cyclone engine cars. i can't seem to tune it out...

Can't say that I have seen anything significant that couldn't be compensated for in DSMLink. -My tuner (TedSpec) would know more on the specifics, but I do believe that he was able to compensate for the cyclone activation within the SD table. How bad of a lean-out are you seeing?

How are you activating your cyclone 'secondaries'? I would imagine that if the AFPR & the cyclone actuator/solenoid/vacuum canister setup were all plumbed from the same nipple on the manifold, that this could possibly cause a ripple in way the AFPR behaves. Are these both MAF cars or are you also running SD?

Unrelated, but just thought I'd throw this out to my fellow cyclone users...
I do remember seeing some knock (1-2 count blips) once mine activated... turns out that the knock sensor was picking up the 'noise' of the flappers opening to the maximum point that the 'sound' of the lever arm bottoming out was being misinterpreted as knock. -I used some heat shrink tube on the swing arm to prevent the direct metal-on-metal contact and the knock was gone.
 
The cyclone actuator is vacuum actuated. The actuator that came with the cyclone IM that I'm running now originally had a blown diaphragm. -I can only guess that it was due to someone before me supplying boost & vacuum to it, rather than just vacuum only.

After replacing it, I used a one-way check valve on the vacuum line that goes between the IM & the vacuum canister. This way the canister and actuator will only see atmosphere & vacuum, thus holding the actuator open whenever the solenoid is allowing vacuum through it.

I am activating the solenoid that opens the cyclone via DSMLink and I would highly recommend doing the same for the sake of tuning.

How did you replace the diaphram? I've been looking for one.
 
FWIW if you're looking for a Cyclone vacuum actuator the 3G V6(and Spyder of the same gen V6) all have vacuum actuators and vacuum canisters stock on their IMs. The arm on the actuator is a little long, but nothing a tiny bit of fab work won't fix.
 
How did you replace the diaphram? I've been looking for one.

Not the diaphragm, per say, but rather the whole actuator assembly.

I've sourced my replacement actuator from a 95 Acura TL 5 cylinder. It's mounting bracket is similar enough so that you can widen one of the existing holes to make it fit the cyclone mounting points.
 
Found the part number for a 1995 Acura TL vacuum diaphram, it's 17129-PV1-A00. It's number 17 in this picture:

I'm going to check the junkyards first, if not I can order it online for $60.






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**EDIT** Junkyard only has a 1996 Acura TL. It should be the same, I'm going to go check it out.
 
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Yes, that's the same one that I found. -My apologies, the one in my pics earlier were of one that I had in there originally, until I found the one on the acura in the wrecking yard... I remember now, the acura actuator was physically the same size & travel as the OEM cyclone, but does have a slightly longer rod length. I had planned on cutting the rod down to size & tapping it for use with an old tie rod end from the RC car junk drawer, but never got around to doing it, as the other one (that's pictured above) has worked out so well. The one above was sourced from some Daewoo 4-cylinder 2-door(?) & had the correct rod length... keep in mind, all of this was around 4 years ago.

As EgleTawln pointed out earlier, the wrecking yards offer a plethora of parts for R&D use... I just kept looking around for some that were a close fit. I'd highly recommend doing the same (just bring your vacuum test pump with you, so you can make sure that you will get one that doesn't leak).
 
I swung by the junkyard and there were two right next to each other in a 1996 2.5 TL. I only had 5 minutes before they closed and could only get the smaller one out (didn't have a short enough screwdriver for the one on the left). Fortunately the one I grabbed was only $5.87 :thumb:, even though that was the wrong one. I'll go back in the morning and grab the other one.

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The 'wrong' one that you picked up is that same as the one that I ended up using... I vaguely remember bending those three tabs on the bottom that hold it onto the mounting bracket to remove it from the stock mount & fabbing up something to use with the cyclone... again this was several years ago that I did all of this. The rod length and travel of that actuator worked, so that's why I never revisited the idea of using the other one.
 
It is. So far, so good... Like I was saying, this was done a few years ago (that's why I'm sketchy on the specifics) & it's held up fine ever since... I'm running it still to this day.

...Wish I could say the same thing about these Holset turbos I've been blowing up lately :(
 
A couple quick questions.... Should I take it apart to clean it, or leave it assembled since I don't have gaskets? And is there supposed to be a spring connected to the lever? Video for reference:

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the spring screw is to fine tune how much the butterflies open.
the actuator does all the work. the lever is supposed to flop with nothing attached to it.
it is possible to make new gaskets out of felpro gasket paper. jnz tuning also sells the gasket.
if the gasket has a leak, it will suck to deal with in the engine bay.
i would clean it, maybe paint it and then new gaskets to ensure it's holding boost.
you could fill it with water and see if any leaks out at the existing gasket. if it will hold water, it should hold boost.
 
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