Does it blow with the ignition key off? If so, the only other place it goes (assuming you didn't change or add wires to this line) is to the lower right fuse in the driver's kick panel which then goes to the sunroof ECU. Pull this fuse and see what happens. Rather than keep blowing fuses you can add a test light as described in http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998 to find the short.

Yeah, I saw that test light article and will definitely try that over blowing more fuses. I'll try pulling the fuse in the kick panel - thanks.

-G

hey i had that same problem i went threw 30 some odd fuses before i decided to take it to a shop. it took them 3 days to find the problem the had everything out but my motor.

now tell me is your power seat malfunctioning?

if u can find a way to unplug it do so thats what fixed my problem

the shop told me if i they didnt only charge 60 to diagnos the problem my bill would have been around 1000 bucks but it ended only costing 180dollars total since the they couldnt charge me more than 60 buck to find the problem

Wickedracer84 said:

now tell me is your power seat malfunctioning?

Click to expand...

The power seat is on a different 30A fusable link than the Ignition one he's talking about.

i know but a short in the power seat cause my ignition fuse to blow the same way. over and over again

I pulled the fuse for the sunroof (the one that's in the drivers footwell), and the car works okay now. I'm hoping to pull the sunroof relay/motor this weekend, but I assume that was the problem.

Thanks for all the help.

-George G.

I had the same problem last week. I went to shift into 2nd and the car just died. I pulled the sun roof fuse and it fixed my problem too. Thanks alot man.

I know this is an old thread but I'm posting my experience and fix to the problem since this left me on the road stranded today in traffic and this was the thread I read from my iPhone to point me in the right direction.

I was the first car at a stop light and my car was idling fine, as soon as the light turned green it bucked and hesitated and my WB went "---" and the car shut off. I turned the key trying to turn it over but not even my dash lights were coming up, NOTHING. Hit the hazards and checked the fuses and my Ignition Switch fuse was blown. I got the car off the road and into a parking lot to troubleshoot the problem...

I pulled up this thread with my phone and did what all of the above mentioned, pulled the sunroof fuse and unplugged my driverside seat. Took it for granted and plugged in the 30A I had for the power windows and it fried... Great. Well to make a long story short and get to the fix I unplugged damn near everything electronic in my car 3 hours later. I got fed up and made a blown 30A fuse into a unlimited amp fuse by twisting the guts of it together with a pair of needle nose. Then I plugged it in and with my DSM buddy Kris (banishedmunk) watching I turned the key to "ON" and waited for him to see something start smoking.

Apparently when I tightened down the Capacitor (Noice Reducer) the wires were being pinched on the IM and eventually wore through, shorting it to ground.

^^^ This is EXACTLY what happened to me yesterday. Took me only 15 mins to find the problem. I had a short with my headlights...so I knew it was something grounding out. The little guy broke off the capacitor and the exposed wire was touching some metal.

Happened right as I was turning into oncoming traffic...talk about scary. Same symptoms too...sputter like it was out of gas...then dead.

It had to happen on a Monday (Blues day for Air Force) at the end of Spring (might as well be summer with these 95 degree days). Luckily tho, I had some help getting my car quickly off the road.

i know this is a way old thread but im having the same problem with my 98 non turbo 4g64 convertable eclipse keeps poping my 30a ignition switch fuse, any help would be much appriciated

I am Having the same issue right now trying to figure out were my short is coming from. I have bad wiring all through the car and am trying to pin point this issue and it is becoming a nightmare. With regards to the capacitor that was stated above is that what this is I noticed this wire just dangeling near the pictures of the capacitor were but it looks a little different it is coming from the harness here wires

Hey guys sorry to revive this thread but I'm new to the site and it will not let me start a new thread. I have a 98 eclipse RS that keeps blowing the 30 amp engine fuse(top left fuse under the hood). I have read a few posts that say aftermarket head units and what not. I have completely removed my head unit, replaced the fuel pump relay(from the wiring diagram I have thought it may be that). Ran long enough to turn the car around and died again. Are there any main culprits to this problem or could something like a tail light short cause this? Ps I don't have a tail light short just using as example.

Brownv1 said:

Hey guys sorry to revive this thread but I'm new to the site and it will not let me start a new thread. I have a 98 eclipse RS that keeps blowing the 30 amp engine fuse(top left fuse under the hood). I have read a few posts that say aftermarket head units and what not. I have completely removed my head unit, replaced the fuel pump relay(from the wiring diagram I have thought it may be that). Ran long enough to turn the car around and died again. Are there any main culprits to this problem or could something like a tail light short cause this? Ps I don't have a tail light short just using as example.

Click to expand...

I had this issue on my tsi. I had a short behind the radio. Check twice! I had missed it the first time I checked.

Just to update this thread.

My car kept blowing the 30amp ignition fuse as well. The noise capacitor was the culprit, it was grounding out.

Fixed it, and no more blowing fuses.