Clutch adjustment

Justin_l_ · Aug 19, 2014

I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm having an issue adjusting my clutch how the jacks trans video says to do it. New OEM master cylinder, slave cylinder and a ss braided line from master to the slave. Bled the system multiple times without any trace of air.

I have turned the adjustment rod till it comes out of the U shaped piece it threads into and the slave never stopped compressing. I'm not sure if there is just air in the system or if I am turning the rod the wrong direction.

crimsondragon · Aug 20, 2014

Where's the fork end sitting in the bell housing right now? Take a picture of it.

Justin_l_ · Aug 20, 2014

I believe it is in the center of the opening, I will double check and take a pic. The pivot ball, fork, and 2600 all have about 3k miles on them. The step on the flywheel is .609. The flywheel is a act streetlite.[DOUBLEPOST=1408565604][/DOUBLEPOST]

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Picture added

crimsondragon · Aug 20, 2014

Looks decent to me. So your issue is that the clutch is not disengaging properly? Have you checked for leaks? Most notably would be fittings. If you have a full stainless braided line, I'd double check the master cylinder port. What's the history of this? Did you changed out something and then it happened or was it gradual?

Justin_l_ · Aug 20, 2014

Last year the clutch was not holding power. I tried to adjust the clutch master, but found it was leaking so I parked it for the year. This year I changed the trans for a shep stage 3, checked the clutch, and replaced all hydraulics. Now I'm trying to properly adjust the clutch before the initial startup. I can't seem to get it to the point that the internal bleeder in the master gets closed off like jacks trans video explains. No matter how much I adjust the rod I can still move the clutch fork towards the engine. I am trying to get the master adjusted for max travel to reduce the chance of clutch drag.

There are no leaks at any of the fittings. They are 100% dry. The car does have a welded clutch pedal.

crimsondragon · Aug 21, 2014

Forget that video. All you're adjusting when you do that is how far the master rod goes into the cylinder. To get that, you need to have zero upper freeplay so that the pedal is pushing into the rod which is what you don't want. This is the way I adjusted mine. I have an extended slave rod from the previous owner so my disengagement window was way high but have still managed to adjust it to the point that it is near the floor and won't overshoot to reengagement. With the engine running and the master rod barely hooked up, apply moderate pressure to shifter to 1st gear. Push the clutch pedal down until the shifter slides into gear. That's the beginning of your disengagement window. Adjust the rod a quarter at a time, slowly lowering your disengagement window till it's near the floor. Preference of how high off the floor is up to you but what you don't want isovershooting it to the point of reengagement with the pedal all the way to the floor. With a stock rod you probably will never encounter that. After you get it where you want, adjust the upper stop so that the clutch switch is engaged but barely. There should be enough freeplay for the pedal to move up a little.

You can also reference RRE's way: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Justin_l_ · Aug 21, 2014

I will try adjusting it when I get home this afternoon. Is the upper switch where the pedal rests for cruise control?

Zufelt · Aug 21, 2014

crimsondragon said:
Forget that video. All you're adjusting when you do that is how far the master rod goes into the cylinder. To get that, you need to have zero upper freeplay so that the pedal is pushing into the rod which is what you don't want. This is the way I adjusted mine. I have an extended slave rod from the previous owner so my disengagement window was way high but have still managed to adjust it to the point that it is near the floor and won't overshoot to reengagement. With the engine running and the master rod barely hooked up, apply moderate pressure to shifter to 1st gear. Push the clutch pedal down until the shifter slides into gear. That's the beginning of your disengagement window. Adjust the rod a quarter at a time, slowly lowering your disengagement window till it's near the floor. Preference of how high off the floor is up to you but what you don't want isovershooting it to the point of reengagement with the pedal all the way to the floor. With a stock rod you probably will never encounter that. After you get it where you want, adjust the upper stop so that the clutch switch is engaged but barely. There should be enough freeplay for the pedal to move up a little.

You can also reference RRE's way: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Perhaps your right, and I'm wrong but I wouldn't just "forget" that video. He does build transmissions on a DAILY basis. I'm sure he knows what works and doesn't work. I read the RRE adjustment and don't really understand how that will help anything. What happens when you need to adjust your clutch as you stated above and the bleeder valve is closed. Like I said, I could be wrong but I wouldn't just disregard what the he says as he has done more transmissions than almost everyone on this forum.

crimsondragon · Aug 21, 2014

Justin_l_ said:
I will try adjusting it when I get home this afternoon. Is the upper switch where the pedal rests for cruise control?

It's not specifically just for cruise control. It does give input to it, however. It's main use is to engage the starter relay when the clutch pedal is pushed down. There is also a pedal stop that I actually mean to refer to instead. That switch is adjusted afterwards.

Zufelt said:
Perhaps your right, and I'm wrong but I wouldn't just "forget" that video. He does build transmissions on a DAILY basis. I'm sure he knows what works and doesn't work. I read the RRE adjustment and don't really understand how that will help anything. What happens when you need to adjust your clutch as you stated above and the bleeder valve is closed. Like I said, I could be wrong but I wouldn't just disregard what the he says as he has done more transmissions than almost everyone on this forum.

Take it with a grain of salt. I was in the same position as him fiddling with the rod and had it all the way out. It was only when I started looking up at the pedal stop did I realize how it all works. The manual states to adjust for the pedal height first. Being that I've eliminated the carpet backing and the sound deadener, it didn't make sense to use the floor as a point of reference. I decided to adjust by way of finding the disengagement point instead and put it exactly where I want it. After that it was just putting the correct amount of space between the pedal stop and clutch switch. It worked for me and if it works for him, great. If not, we'll go back to the drawing board. I'm not trying to discredit Jack's or anything but it's just my experience with it. I've thrown my fair share of that same video to other people when it came to them adjusting their clutch as well.

Here's another excellent link about clutch pedal adjustment.
http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclipse-clutch-adjustment.html

Zufelt · Aug 22, 2014

crimsondragon said:
It's not specifically just for cruise control. It does give input to it, however. It's main use is to engage the starter relay when the clutch pedal is pushed down. There is also a pedal stop that I actually mean to refer to instead. That switch is adjusted afterwards.

Take it with a grain of salt. I was in the same position as him fiddling with the rod and had it all the way out. It was only when I started looking up at the pedal stop did I realize how it all works. The manual states to adjust for the pedal height first. Being that I've eliminated the carpet backing and the sound deadener, it didn't make sense to use the floor as a point of reference. I decided to adjust by way of finding the disengagement point instead and put it exactly where I want it. After that it was just putting the correct amount of space between the pedal stop and clutch switch. It worked for me and if it works for him, great. If not, we'll go back to the drawing board. I'm not trying to discredit Jack's or anything but it's just my experience with it. I've thrown my fair share of that same video to other people when it came to them adjusting their clutch as well.

Here's another excellent link about clutch pedal adjustment.
http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclipse-clutch-adjustment.html

Different folks have different strokes, I've used the Jacks for the cars that i've adjusted and seems to work great, I suppose if your method works then to each his own. There can always be two methods to the madness.

Nuzzi · Aug 22, 2014

I just went through all this recently, I replaced the master and slave at the same time along with a ss line. Watched all the videos etc...seems the master I received had a slightly shorter than oem rod even though it was supposed to be an oem replacement. I ended up adjusting the rod all the way out, and then adjusted the cruise switch to stop the pedal just past the bleed-back port on the master, also adjust the clutch switch on the floor all the way in/up. This is just what worked for me since my mc rod was short. Using stock length slave rod, fork is centered and I can push it back easily, engages a couple inches off the floor and doesnt drag.

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