As good of an explanation that is, you've left out the air that pushes the heated air around the engine bay. Which this all comes back to how to cool the engine bay and why we want to. Lol at least the person who started the thread learned some things.

I don't think you get the point of a heat shield, the point is to keep the heat in an area where heat is supposed to be. I didn't leave anything out, simply explaining how it works. I'm sure the OP is well aware of how a heat shield works.

I do. I just don't think its very effient. Plus I'm not only talking about heat shielding. I mean there's a lot you can learn from this thread whether it changes one's opinion or not.

RamenPride said:

the area between the hood and windshield is a low pressure area, which means air will be drawn into the engine bay if you raise/space the back of the hood and/or remove the weatherstripping

Click to expand...

I think you mean high pressure (at least on the outside). It is relatively low pressure under the hood there. And you are overall correct. It will draw (suck whatever) air INTO the engine bay and you want to get rid of the hot air in the bay. More engine bay pressure means less flow through the radiator means higher temps. A ricer/drifter mod for sure. I honestly think it looks ok, or at least intriguing. Certainly NOT functional at all for us.

You want a scoop that draws air out, not in.

That and good fans like everyone else said. Water Wetter also. And the scoop under the car to ram air up and through the radiator REALLY helps. It allowed me to chuck my AC fan entirely on long high mph highway cruises.

Grey Forrest Mod...and cut some of the crash beam underneath to direct airflow if u still have the crash beam.

Wolf the heat shields do an amazing job at keeping temps in the exh and out the tail pipe instead of under the hood. Why do you think all new cars have heat shields on just about every inch of the exh now a days . Ceramic coating, shields and blankets heck even wraping the intake track with the proper stuff pays off a lot!!

^^^

I am running a 2g manifold with stock upper heat sheild. Since I have a bolt on bep on hx35 and recirc o2 housing I can't fit a sheild on there. Another idea I thought of is a turbo blanket but I have no idea what will fit the housing. I fabbed up a heat sheild out of aluminum to help keep some heat off the radiator from the turbo. My derale h.o. fan you can hear a mile away and really moves good amount of air compared to the eBay fan I'm using for ac purposes.

My other car is a 85 trans am so I am familiar with the chin spoilers. I think the one you are talking about specifically is from third gen camaros because the firebird ones are a lot longer. I think I'm gonna try a chin spoiler before I end up with too much carbon fiber add ons. I know at one point I had my temps down around 195 but that was with a lightweight big greddy fmic. This ets street one is dense and air just doesn't flow through it very well.

I do still have crash beam how should it be cut? The fmic is mounted to the underside of it.

wolf alchemy said:

So my thoughts on fmic have been correct. So if the fmic does restrict air flow to the radiator. So. This may sound crazy, but let's say I get an intercooler. And its the kind with the gaps between the air pipes running from side to side. I decide to cut out the thin metal in between some of the rows in the middle. That would allow air to easily pass though the fmic to then get to the radiator. But since the radiator is untouched it would slightly make a pocket of air. So cold air would be getting to the radiator and it would still cool the compressed air. At least in theory it works so long as you don't cut into the air piping and make a boost leak.

Click to expand...

So how many people read this because I feel it was over looked for its daring ridiculousness

To green I got a blanket from ptp for my hx35 I think it was a t3 or subaru blanket. I'll check in the morning its in my daughters closet, fits mine perfect!

To wolf, that sounds like a good way to waste a fmic. You can't cut into it without damaging it. The main thing is how its setup. You should seal every side you can make ducts where you can. Have fans that actually work and run them always on high thru link or a jumper wire on the relay.

The main blockage for the fmic on a 2g is the position. If you notice about a 1/4 of the fmic isn't flowing with the radiator but getting blocked by the radiator support. I noticed this the most setting up my galant which was even worse. And then if you don't open up the mouth in the bumper and trim the crash beam back, you really block off the radiator.

So the best things you can do is get the right fmic, the right fans and shrouding, ducting, adding 2 ducts on either side of Mitsu symbol is a great great idea.

On my galant I removed the a/c and was able to mount my fmic right on the radiator support with the radiator. Straight flow with the radiator and a absolutely perfect fit! If you could somehow do that on a 2g it would really help with flow and cooling!

Just cut the hood and show us. Heat wrap, heat shields, sealing of rad to cooler, and ducking are only part of it the other end of the equation is venting the hood. Oo I know members are just trying to help but don't get caught up on just fans, they can only take you so far even at the highest cfms.

Agreed. You need a way to get air out of the bay just as much. Besides fans lose CFM as pressure into them increases. Any reputable fan manufacturer can show you this. Graph below is from my fan.

So having huge CFM fans will really only help if your parked or moving slow. The right thing to do is help the air enter, pass through the intercooler, radiator and then have a clear path to exit. That's why ducting is so important.

Here is a great thread on it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-ducted-radiator-setup-road-racing.386716/

Thank you dsmkauai.

2 things that will possibly fix your problem.
1. get a heat shield for the manifold and 02 housing so that heat will not build in front of the radiator.
2. if you no longer have a condenser, put a pusher fan in front of the radiator on the a/c side along with a puller on the opposite side to help with the flow. This works well when combined with the first option.

I did this to my race car with no shroud for the manifold and a 180 thermostat. If you are still running hot, option 3 would be to put a 4th fan in front so that you have 2 on each side.

Use 12 awg wire (make wire for a living) and wire with switch in the cockpit as you do not want to overload your stock fuse. I would wire directly to the battery and turn on fans only when temps start going up.

by compounding your fans, the front fans will help pull the air through the front mount and the pullers will be more efficient as the air will not be static and as restricted coming through the radiator. My race car never goes above 190 now, even on a hot day in the southeast.

Dsmkauai please let me know which turbo blanket it is I'd really like to get one.

As for hood vents is there anything similar to the rre one that's a little cheaper. It's $159 on there website.

Cliff I am trying to do the impossible and keep the ac so I still have my condenser. I could try and add another pusher in front of my puller on passenger side. I already have a pusher squeezed in there on driver side for the ac it's a very tight fit. Even going down highway temps still creep up to 220 before I start shutting off ac.

This week I'll try to get as much done as I can and update as soon as I can. I'm going to start with chin spoiler and heat wrap the down pipe. Where's the best place to get heat wrap?

If you have the ETS street kit, you have a little space on the crash beam you can trim to allow more airflow to the upper part of the radiator. You might have to trim some of the bumper cover too. I was able to cut out a slit about 2-3 inches wide and the length of the space between the 2 mounting holes on the crash beam. So, when the cars moving, air flow is "permitted" to the upper radiator area and the fans can suck fresh air. My temps had a significant drop and especially compounded with the Grey Forrest Mod hood vents.

Op, hears a link to reference from
.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-cooler-used-to-lower-water-temps.481334/page-2

green97gstspyder said:

Dsmkauai please let me know which turbo blanket it is I'd really like to get one.

As for hood vents is there anything similar to the rre one that's a little cheaper. It's $159 on there website.

Cliff I am trying to do the impossible and keep the ac so I still have my condenser. I could try and add another pusher in front of my puller on passenger side. I already have a pusher squeezed in there on driver side for the ac it's a very tight fit. Even going down highway temps still creep up to 220 before I start shutting off ac.

This week I'll try to get as much done as I can and update as soon as I can. I'm going to start with chin spoiler and heat wrap the down pipe. Where's the best place to get heat wrap?

Click to expand...

You can call rre as they used to have fiberglass vents. (Mine is fiberglass). Not sure if they still make them that way but I am sure they could get you one.

This is a medium density metal. I test drove the car with it and the car hit normal temp and I drove home. So it is folded over the left side blocking heat from getting to the compressor side. I've taken it off since I wanted your guys opinions on a slightly custom heat shield.

I'll have to see if I can trim the crash beam somehow a little different since my fmic mounts to the lower part not the upper as shown in the link above.

As far as hood vents go what does everyone think of this hood?
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=191159242509