I can't open those logs from my work computer but the MAFComp sliders look great so far. Once you start doing WOT pulls you'll be working with the high Hz sliders (500Hz +) to tune AFR's in open loop.

Everyone's setup is different and so are injectors even when they're rated for the same flow at the same psi, their flow characteristics can't be perfectly matched because it isn't a perfect world. The expected result of a good idle tune is AirflowPerRev at .25 and CombinedFT's around 0%.

Now that you've got the correct boxes checked/unchecked and your idle logs look good follow the last portion of that video to tune cruise FT's in closedloop.

Awsome. So far so good.

Is it me or for having a built motor you sure are removing a lot of fuel. I am wondering if that is masking a problem? I had that same issue where the MAF slider was removing fuel before getting rid of my old stock intercooler piping (boost leaks. After my installing my ETS street kit I now have my maf sliders up to increase fuel, which makes sense by having no boost leaks and a better VE engine (built). You might want to double check for any vacuum leaks or boost leaks.

lil corb said:

Is it me or for having a built motor you sure are removing a lot of fuel. I am wondering if that is masking a problem? I had that same issue where the MAF slider was removing fuel before getting rid of my old stock intercooler piping (boost leaks. After my installing my ETS street kit I now have my maf sliders up to increase fuel, which makes sense by having no boost leaks and a better VE engine (built). You might want to double check for any vacuum leaks or boost leaks.

Click to expand...

You know what !
I feel the same way, about this only ""masking"" the problem,
But i had to do a complete overhaul, a few months back after bending some valves.
Since then, i have had the opportunity to check and re-check all of my work, i have not cut any corners anywhere, and have been very strict with my
(PMC'S) Pre-Maintance-Checks. I have ZERO leaks in any of my charge pipping/FrontMount/Compressor housing, Injectors,Rail,Vacumm lines,ECT.

So perhaps you are right, but if so i dought its due to loss of air/pressure, maybe something else ?

well regardless of my idle tune being " MASKED"

I achieved, a combined fuel trim of ZERO (o%). All while keeping everything else in spec.
I just messed a lill more with fuel, and BAM !

Also i received my 2X tuning books, and am i happy to have them.
Next, everything else.

I want to thank you guys again, The DSM community, Gofer, Snow and everyone else who pitched in their .02

[RESOLVED/Setting idle tune]

until next time. there will be a next time.

Glad to hear you've finally got it dialed in! Post up the latest log with everything dialed in. I'm curious to see the settings.

will do, it will be up hear tomorrow.

Learning to tune EcmLink for boost/Wot.


I never did upload that log.

To much came up, but now i have caught up with alot and i'm ready to start tuning again soon. Im reaching out to you guys again for advice, As of now my boost controller is set at (o) Zero. And i also understand that i should have no Knock, and a AFR of 11-12 at boost.

So how should i start ? Should i just turn the boost controller a little at a time? or should i turn it all the way? Or somewhere in the middle ?

Am i looking for a "standard"/"common" PSI to start dialing for WOT?

-thanks!

If you're going for a normal boost level (something below 30psi), you can just turn the controller up until you hit it, pending that you don't see anything go really crazy in the log (lots of knock, really lean, really high IDC% etc.). If you don't see any of that and hit your target boost level, then just tune from there. If you do see some of those issues as you turn it up, address them along the way as they'll only get worse. Then finish the rest of the tuning once you hit your target.

If you're going for a really high boost level, turn it up and tune in steps. You'll most likely encounter issues with really high boost and you don't just want to jump in head first.

cool ! ill start posting soon, if it ever stops raining in FL.

Finally the rain let down!! i have a log.
Questions: 1. How do i get my AEMWB to show up of displayed values? (it's hooked up too my ECU).

2. My AEM Gauge shows an AFR of 10:1 on WOT, but my stream values shows an AFR of about 12:1. I know i'm suppose to use my (WBfactor) to get both my AEM and AFR to show the same numbers. So how do i get my (WBfactor) to show up on my displayed values.

I know how to add and remove certain values except i cant find/ locate those too values above.

Thanks dudes


GEzuz !!! how do i find the log to upload ???? AHH!!!!! i have no idea how to find it.[DOUBLEPOST=1407876000][/DOUBLEPOST]found it.[DOUBLEPOST=1407876064][/DOUBLEPOST][DOUBLEPOST=1407876201][/DOUBLEPOST]p.s i get to about 3000 Rpms and its starts to bog and bog some more. ?why is that? also why am i not seeing any boost building ?

If the wideband is already input and saved into the ECU Inputs tab (which in the above log it is not), go to Edit > Captured Values and look for the wideband in the left box and add it to the right box. Then go to Edit > Displayed Values and again, look for the value in the left and add it to the right box. Once you do this, either WBFactor should show up or you can again add it.

Something in your fuel settings are off if you need -30% to -40% MAF Comp adjustments at idle. Have you gone through this before starting to tune?

Happen to have an idle log you can post with the car up to temp?

Keep an eye on your coolant and intake temps. They're high enough to pull timing.

ill post a most recent log of idle, allowing it to warm up next time.
yikes, you are right intake temp is hot, florida fun . And coolent temp oh man, theirs nothing left to do!! i already wrapped my headers make a heat shield, made a duct to force air into radiator, sealed the thing !!! and used an oil cooler to help drop temps!

snowborder714 said:

Something in your fuel settings are off if you need -30% to -40% MAF Comp adjustments at idle. Have you gone through this before starting to tune?

.

Click to expand...

as in the sliders are way low right? thats what i thought, on all the other examples iv seen they are much higher than that.

have you seen my fuel setting? GlobalFuel is -36.7 and Deadtime is 430.
Thats is the only way i was able to achieve constant idle with no surging at 14:7.


Lastly this is the video i used as reference :

Keep in mind that the video I made is just for wot. You need to get idle dialed in. Is there any way you can post an idle log? I can guarantee your airflowperrev and fuel trims are gonna be off. Make sure you log LTFT Lo and if you have a wideband, you should log that as well as WBFactor. You should also lower your knock settings to around 3000-3500 rpm at a maximum. You also need a firmware update as well. Go into the rpm tab and change the CoastingFC Offset to 0. In your DTC's tab, you unchecked every box. You should probably check them all except for the egr crap and the cat efficiency/O2 boxes.[DOUBLEPOST=1407984956][/DOUBLEPOST]P.S. And although these videos I made might screw up in the audio department and might lag, hopefully there's enough info in it that you can figure out what I'm trying to tell ya.

snow, thanks for that info on the inputs ! and V8's thanks for making those videos. And i checked the boxes you mentioned any other im missing ?. hears the log. Can i say that long ago when i was trying to dial idle all i understood then was just CombinedFt and Airperrev. i had no idea there was so many other factors at hand. And my AEM gauge does not reflect my aemAFR displayed. on my gauge it bounces but mostly sits at 14:7 so perhaps i have been focused on the wrong measurements.

Lastly i deleted the question on the support group.

nO bump?

First and foremost, you need to make sure the software and firmware is updated. You're using an older firmware version.

To try and get the wideband to match, you might need to go into the ecu inputs and change the wideband from AEM to Linear Wideband. Then on the log screen, right click on the log and click "Unit Preferences" and change a/f mixture to "Lambda". Then punch in the minimum and maximum voltages and Lambda readings. To get those readings, follow this link.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showpost.php?p=568940&postcount=18

After you do that, go back into "Unit Preferences" and change it back from Lambda to A/F Ratio. Your readings should then match.

Next, go into your mafcomp tab, click on "Change", to the right of Global Scalar, then click on Auto Adj, then OK. Then Copy to Ecu. That will basically center the mafcomp sliders.

Next, go to your Dash tab and next to Coolant Offset, try and raise that to maybe 30 or 40 to get your coolant temps down to around 190 or so.

You're so cool thanks man, this is gold. Ill follow and report back.

Just one thing, were do I get the lates firmware? ? Ecm site? Cause thats were I went ? So im wodering why its not updated and how you can you even tell?. Oh and I dont have acces to ecm and im not allowed to register ?? Da fudge?

Go to this link and download the latest software version first under "Early Access".
http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads.php

Second, go to this link for the firmware. Notice on this page there's an instruction link if you don't know how to do it.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/apps/firmwareupgrade

And the reason I can tell you're using an older version is because of the missing upgrades, and because I've been doing this awhile. Lol.

v8s_are_slow said:

Keep in mind that the video I made is just for wot. You need to get idle dialed in. Is there any way you can post an idle log? I can guarantee your airflowperrev and fuel trims are gonna be off. Make sure you log LTFT Lo and if you have a wideband, you should log that as well as WBFactor. You should also lower your knock settings to around 3000-3500 rpm at a maximum. You also need a firmware update as well. Go into the rpm tab and change the CoastingFC Offset to 0. In your DTC's tab, you unchecked every box. You should probably check them all except for the egr crap and the cat efficiency/O2 boxes.[DOUBLEPOST=1407984956][/DOUBLEPOST]P.S. And although these videos I made might screw up in the audio department and might lag, hopefully there's enough info in it that you can figure out what I'm trying to tell ya.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Seems like the video is "out of sync". Or maybe it's just my slow computer. Seems like the voice is faster than the video. Otherwise, i think it's a great video.

Yeah, I dunno what the problem was/is. Oh well. I need to do another, but I've been so busy tuning everyone's cars here lately that I just haven't had the time to mess with. So for now, it'll have to do. Sorry.

v8s_are_slow said:

To try and get the wideband to match, you might need to go into the ecu inputs and change the wideband from AEM to Linear Wideband. Then on the log screen, right click on the log and click "Unit Preferences" and change a/f mixture to "Lambda". Then punch in the minimum and maximum voltages and Lambda readings. To get those readings, follow this link.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showpost.php?p=568940&postcount=18

Click to expand...

Since i have no access to Ecm, am i safe to use this video to guide me to calibrate the WB.
[DOUBLEPOST=1408228874][/DOUBLEPOST]ok here is my list :
1. I upgraded soft and firm ware.
2. i was able to get LTFT low and STFL around the 0 mark.
3. i selected linear WB and made adjustments on the max/min volts and lamba. which got me pretty close to matching the AFR
4.i raised my coolent offset to 40 (didnt see any change).


combinedFt is around 0 but AirFlowPerRev is around .33


Questions: on my displayed values i have mafComp and MafRaw are those two the same? what is ( oldAfR) and should i be monitoring that ?
And is it common for the Linear/aemWB to bounce so much, compared to the AFR display?
What else am i missing here ?

Thanks alot guys.[DOUBLEPOST=1408289075][/DOUBLEPOST]Thanks to gofer for this vid.
I found this on the manual for the aem, we don't normally change the settings on the gauge correct. Also found this on the ecmwiki. I imagine with po/p1 aem settings.[DOUBLEPOST=1408302609][/DOUBLEPOST] ok, i dont know which AF mixture i should be trusting!!

my gauge doesnt macth my WB value, and that same WB value doesnt macth my AFR Est. What am i suppose to trust ?
even if i use linear WB and set the parameters it still bounces like crazy!!! at a few points they will macth butt the WB display shoots up and down like the andes mountains. the only info on how to calibrate the WB is the video above but thats only for SD and im lost as to how to do it for the Maft.

I get it. I get a little frustated when someone ask too many question that they should all ready know. But this isnt a bolt on their is no SET concrete way since every car is unique, so bare with me.

update: hears the deal if you open up the install instructions on AEM EUGO WB it says blue wire ( data-logging). Im not the only one who though that was the way you wire up to the ECU, my previous tuner also thought the same.





I found a image that gofer posted up on this site before; basically its the white wire 0-5V you connect to ECU as many as you know, and are probably shaking their heads .Honest mistake as the install guide is misleading.

So under displayed values : AEMWBGauge R1 reflects perfectly my actual gauge PERFECTLY! no need to calibrate.