So last season I changed my clutch out with a southbend clutch and act street light flywheel. Once I finished the install I noticed I had to adjust the rod under the clutch pedal due to me not having a easy time getting it into gear. After the adjustment everything was good. I did the clutch drag test in my garage and made sure I had no movement all the way to redline. So when I started driving I noticed the clutch pedals sweet spot kept moving around on me. So when I would set it perfect to start to grab about a inch or so off the floor, the inch would turn into about 2-1/2" after doing a 20min drive. I did notice a little dribble of fluid around the rubber seal on my master cylinder that I wiped and it never came back. But this season I've been trying to get it properly and now that it's adjusted to where I am happy with I have high rpms sitting at around 1400 and I am finding I got clutch drag when I did the test again. I replaced the pivot ball and clutch fork with new oem parts when I did the clutch. The clutch fork sits in the middle of the fork hole in the tranny, and I can push the fork back by my fingers. Any suggestions?

Thanks

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At first glance this sounds like a case of worn hydraulics or air in the lines. I would first inspect the master and slave to see if they are leaking at the boot, if not, try to bleed the system and see if the issue improves.

P.S. How's Alberta right now? I'm heading up to BC next week and they've had temps of 37C for over a week straight!

Hey, Sorry I had a profile that was filled out before. Maybe I had to re-create one since the site update? Anyways yeah Its been Hot as shit here. I was just in BC last week. Get ready to sweat your balls off. I just did a full flush and bled my clutch line the other day so that rules that out. I tried to figure it out again today. I had a very little bit of clutch fluid on my clutch master cylinder before but I doubt it even dripped once. I wiped it and checked it again today and its still completely dry. Checked my slave cylinder and its not leaking. I can set my clutch pedal so it starts to engage about a inch off the floor and get it perfect but after about 10 minutes of driving it keeps engaging closer to the top of the pedal. Another question is when I loosen the 12mm bolt off the threaded rod to adjust the rod I can't really spin it by hand all too freely. I have to use vice grips or something to get it started and then it will loosen up, and then I can turn it by hand. I'm kinda leaning on the master cylinder is dead? For another update I did get my clutch adjusted decent at one point yesterday, and tried a clutch drag test and I had no clutch drag. But after a short drive I tried again and had clutch drag at about 6- 6500 rpm. Also where the clutch engaged moved again . Man this sucks, I just want to figure this out so I can break in the new clutch a bit more and put my fuel pressure reg. and fuel pump, injectors in and start tuning. I did all this work last summer to my car and I'm still trying to figure this shit out this summer haha. I did figure out that my high idle is from my throttle body sticking a bit. I pushed it a bit back when I was idling at 1100 and what do you know it moved like 2mm and my cars idle went back down to 800. So that was a good thing

"after about 10 minutes of driving it keeps engaging closer to the top of the pedal" this stood out to me. It's possible you're experiencing 2g pedal pump-up.
Just something else to cross off the list. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm - near the bottom.

so I adjusted the upper adjustment all the way out for most pedal travel possible. I then re adjusted my rod on my master cylinder like on jackstransmisions video so that I was preloaded and another half turn and now I can push the slave cylinder in with my finger. These both should allow most pedal travel (fluid transfer) possible. The clutch engages about 3/4" off the floor and am getting clutch drag at about 6 to 6500 rpm. I also moved the rubber boot on the clutch fork part of the tranny and had a friend push the clutch down all the way, and the fork doesn't seem to be hitting the transmission as its got about a 1/8" gap between the fork and the bell housing. So assuming that's good.

so today I changed the clutch master cylinder with a brand new oem. I bled the system probably around 20 times. I even pushed the slave cylinder rod in all the way and cracked open the bleed screw then closed it and re-bled the system another 5 times. re-adjusted the push rod on the new slave cylinder all the way out that I can so that that the valve in the clutch master cylinder is still open. Clutch feels way better and doesn't seem to be engaging further up each time no more. But I still have clutch drag at around 6-7 rpm. I backed out (raised pedal height) the top adjustment to the point its not going to move no more cause the pedal assembly is now slightly compressing on the bushing. So that is backed out completely. Went back and double checked to rod adjustment on the clutch master cylinder that I still have the most fluid transfer possible with the valve still being open. Still getting a very slight clutch drag at around 6500rpm. double checked the clutch fork and its still sitting just slightly over towards the driver side. I don't really know what else to do at this point. I fell like burning my car. Anyone have any other idea's?[DOUBLEPOST=1408670757][/DOUBLEPOST]anyone?