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98 Spyder GST (AWD swap)

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At the track again today, did a careful test run at 14.521, then on my next run the (real TiAL) wastegate blew apart into pieces at 30 PSI @8k RPM.
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Yes. It's a real Tial, given its an older version, but the entire top part blew.

In under 24 hours I got a replacement and it's already in.

I've currently got a eBay clutch that came with the car that spun down my entire last pass. I'll be turning the boost down and trying to get a 13.9 at least.
 
Big thanks to the guys over at JMF for making a manifold for this thing that fit without needing any cutting or grinding. Couldn't be happier with the quality of their work!

With parts coming in every day and being busy with other cars, its tough to choose a day of when to upload an update, but here's the new heart of the beast. Can't wait for the warmer weather!

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Suppose theres no reason for me to chase the awd spyder record on a holset any more!

It's gonna be a long while for me to work out all the bugs. Plus, competition always makes things more fun!
 
Going to the track in a couple weeks, shooting for 130s!

Fingers crossed! :) Picked up a set of slicks yet? I found that my twin disc would either launch too soft, or too hard on street tires. Too soft and it would wheel hop, too hard and it would light up the tires.
 
No slicks, I wanted to stay away from radials because I like keeping my drivetrain in tact. Suppose slicks wouldnt hurt much, but I was able to muster up some 1.6 60s last year on street tires.. However it was on a regular clutch. I guess Ill just have to see, and if I have too, Ill just pussyfoot it out of the hole!
 
Got the beast started today. Drives amazingly. So far no regrets going auto.

Here's a video. Burnt off the header wrap, so it doesnt smoke any more. Now to see if it can last a 6 hour drive to the shootout!

 
Ended up having what I now believe to be an injector issue while at the shootout and couldn't run the car unfortunately. But, I suppose thats what happens when you start a car the day before the shootout, then drive it around the block and then take it on what ended up being a 7.5h journey down to Ohio.

Due to the brakes running solely off of the vacuum pump, it was a little sketchy to drive at first, but after an hour of cruising and heavy traffic, I became accustomed to it. Apart from that, it's not as bad as I thought it would be to drive. Without a silencer in the exhaust however, the car is very loud.
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Thanks man! And I seen that time slip. I think I did comment on your thread, but that's very, very impressive!

Me too. I'll probably make it out to the track for next weekend. Still have to weld in the nitrous bung. But either way, I'll be on street tires so I don't think mine will be too impressive.

I did manage to squeeze in one street pull though. The log corrupted though, but if I recall correctly, it was reading 30psi below 6krpm. Once that BW builds past 10psi, it rockets right up to peak boost and moves!
 
Zeroed out the cam gears as it was spooling much too quick, then I worked out most of the bugs. Still have lots of tuning to do, but now with the injectors dialed in, she's a blast to drive. Even at just 30 PSI on pump gas, this thing hauls. During her first pull, that I drove down to Mexico to do, I let off early as both how hard it pulled and the shear sound it makes up top is absolutely surreal.

 
Went to the track, about 20 min away, my alternator decided it didn't want to make power, so I boosted the car from my friends car. Terrible idea? Yes. But I was dead set on logging one pass. Made 2 passes(after the first, my computer overheated and didn't save the log), both were trash, but here's some in car footage of the second. Voltage was at around 9-10v and the pumps wont make pressure at low 9v, which I found out when the gauge read 8.7v, at which point I shut it off to prevent damaging anything and towed it home, with a terrible 12.6. Going to swap in a GM alternator, better brake pads and will be back for more this year.

At the end of the video, you can hear the water pump computer going haywire, telling me my car was over 220*F (which was false) and the stereo reset itself.

 
So I've started working on the changes for the winter, seem's like when I set the CAS at the shootout, I never put loctite on bolts, because one of them was missing and the other was very loose! It would explain why I was having issues suddenly at the track on the last day.

The engine wiring harness was pulled, and now, I've started the tubular rad support, cutting it wasn't as bad as I thought. I covered the area with a fire blanket so the engine didn't get hit with any sparks and went to town.
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