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2G low oil pressure and car smokes alot

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lee98talon

10+ Year Contributor
204
4
Sep 16, 2012
Green Bay, Wisconsin
Need help getting frustrated. :banghead:

1)Engine oil light comes on when idling after warm up (idle ~750rpm) ? I have no mechanical oil pressue gauage.

2) my car smokes a lot. Smokes Grayish to white. Not when starting up to operating temp.. Starts to smoke after driving a couple(2or3) miles and then it keeps smoking.

Recap:
1998 talon awd with 6bolt motor and dsmlink. Evo 16g turbo. Stock injectors.

New engine short block, 30miles on the rebuild(new pistons with rings, rods, bearings, etc). The short block was assemble by the machine shop. Head was re-seal by the same machine shop, and pressure tested, Head came out fine. My current evo 16g Turbo was bought used(looks new and was told it was good), but I also try like two other used turbo before this evo 16g I have on the car and still same results. Brand new oem oil pump with straight cut gears.
 
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try another turbo.

You post so much on this site and most of what you post is useless. I wish a mod would regulate your spam.

Need help getting frustrated. :banghead:

1)Engine oil light comes on when idling after warm up (idle ~750rpm) ? I have no mechanical oil pressue gauage.

2) my car smokes a lot. Smokes Grayish to white. Not when starting up to operating temp.. Starts to smoke after driving a couple(2or3) miles and then it keeps smoking.

Recap:
1998 talon awd with 6bolt motor and dsmlink. Evo 16g turbo. Stock injectors.

New engine short block(new pistons with rings, rods, bearings, etc). The short block was assemble by the machine shop. Head was re-seal by the same machine shop, and pressure tested, Head came out fine. My current evo 16g Turbo was bought used(looks new and was told it was good), but I also try like two other used turbo before this evo 16g I have on the car and still same results. Brand new oem 6bolt oil pump with straight cut gears.

You need to find out what is burning and why. Grey smoke is usually oil, white is usually coolant.

Pull your intake off. Does the turbo have shaft play? If you are on your third turbo then it might be time to start looking at other possibilities. Is the turbo oil return line straight with no kinks?

You might need to have a compression and leak down test done to get more insight.
 
You need to find out what is burning and why. Grey smoke is usually oil, white is usually coolant.

Pull your intake off. Does the turbo have shaft play? If you are on your third turbo then it might be time to start looking at other possibilities. Is the turbo oil return line straight with no kinks?

You might need to have a compression and leak down test done to get more insight.[/QUOTE]

Yes, I'll re-check all what you said.

Also, I was saying the same thing, too about my turbo, but is it that I'm over feeding my turbo with oil(just a thougt)? The feed line is from the ofh with no restrictor.
 
try another turbo.

Yes, I thought that was a good idea, too because i haven't really try a turbo that I saw working beforehand. I just took the seller's words for it and then judged the turbo by the amount shaft play and the appearances of it.

But, is it really worth trying/buying another turbo?
 
Also, I was saying the same thing, too about my turbo, but is it that I'm over feeding my turbo with oil(just a thougt)? The feed line is from the ofh with no restrictor.

might be...

radiator coolant does not look strange? strange like not coolant-colored...

valve stem seals may be another culprit...

by the way, oil light switch may be defective as well...
 
^^^ not true. It depemds on the turbo, for example a holset can't see more than 72 psi of oil pressure. But, an mhi turbo is completely fine with running the higher pressures ( its the difference of application, in a diesel that maxes out at 4k vs a turbo made for a car that hits 7.5k)

I had a serious smoke issue after my oil return line kinked. I was about 3 seconds from ordering valve stem seals and basically an entire head rebuild... checked it, kinked flat, completely shut. Fixed it, no issues.

If it is kinked, plan on removing intercooler piping and cleaning it all out, including the core. It will be full of oil... ask how I know.... wait, I already told you why, ha.
 
No, very true. Quote from JusMX.

From thread, post #12
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/16g-oil-restrictor-help-over-100psi-oil-pressure.359802/

Not really.

The inlet is smaller than other journal bearing turbos, but it will still require correct pressure (and restriction, if necessary) to function properly.

Look at the 1G OEM feed line from the head, there is a .075" restrictor hole built into the banjo fitting at the end of the line nearest the turbo, meaning MHI turbos were meant for use with a low-pressure source that is also restricted.

A restrictor is most definitely required for OFH feed for MHI turbos.

Other useful threads:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...l-feed-supply-locations-all-turbo-brands.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/16g-and-sourcing-oil.338611/
 
I just learned some info reading this thread and all the post. I that journal bearings turbo didn't need a restrictor where ad ball bearing turbo do. Could sworn I read it in one of our vendors site.
 
You are right.... Typically, i emphasize TYPICALLY, you wont need a restrictor for a JB unit. Then again, do you have balance shafts? Ported OFH or not? Pressure? These are things to consider.

On a JB turbo, or any turbo, the drain is critical. It absolutely must be large enough to flow without backing up
 
I knew I saw this on FP's website somewhere.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/MHI_Oil_Specs.pdf

Near the end of the document under oil pressure, required pressure is 28.5-71 psi and recommended is 42.6-49.8 psi. So 28-71 psi required, recommended is 43-50.

Personally, because I just bought a new 20g, I will be running a restrictor just to be on the safe side. Its a fairly cheap piece of insurance compared to the cost of a rebuild/new turbo.
 
You are right.... Typically, i emphasize TYPICALLY, you wont need a restrictor for a JB unit. Then again, do you have balance shafts? Ported OFH or not? Pressure? These are things to consider.

On a JB turbo, or any turbo, the drain is critical. It absolutely must be large enough to flow without backing up

I didn't port my ofh as much. I just trimmed probably a couple centimeters, only. Both shaft is taken out and turned the oil bearings and used the stubby shafy with the grove.

And I'm using the stock hard lines for my turbo drian. Seems good to me with no kink. I cleaned it out when assembly the motor and blew air through it, it seems fine.
 
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I agree that you should have a oil psi sending unit on your oiil feed line from the OFH so you can monitor the psi correctly. I bought two prosport 60mm oil psi gauges for alittle over 100$. One for the engine psi and one after the turbo feed restrictor. Also, this sounds like a major problem if its idling and blowing smoke. when my turbo blew its oil seal it blew smoke under boost not idle, so i actually think this is a block issue. I hope everything works out for you!
 
Well I said another turbo because you may not know the condition of the one you have, mine smoked but I found it it was a kink in my after market return line. got rid of that junk and all was good since I had just got a rebuilt turbo from Justin.
 
On my current build im keeping the front BS in and putting the stub in the rear. Simply cause i dont care about the extra 5lbs and most importantly my oil pressure will stay exactly the same as before. I know this doesnt apply to you,OP, but for others not wanting to deal with altered oil pressure and still do an effective BS delete just keep the front bs(belt NOT attached of course) and rear gets OEM stub shaft
 
If you think the turbo is the culprit.....
Confirm it. Take it for a short ride get it to smoke (under boost?) & bring back & pull intake & O2. The oil should be evident if it going thru there.
 
On my current build im keeping the front BS in and putting the stub in the rear. Simply cause i dont care about the extra 5lbs and most importantly my oil pressure will stay exactly the same as before. I know this doesnt apply to you,OP, but for others not wanting to deal with altered oil pressure and still do an effective BS delete just keep the front bs(belt NOT attached of course) and rear gets OEM stub shaft

I was in the middle of building my short block and came upon what you said during a little search and I think it's a great idea. I just didnt want to search for a front BS and decided to leave it like it was without the two BS.

If you think the turbo is the culprit.....
Confirm it. Take it for a short ride get it to smoke (under boost?) & bring back & pull intake & O2. The oil should be evident if it going thru there.

Yes, it is possible to be my turbo, but did try like two other turbo before this evo 16g. Same results. The issue is I never saw those turbo running before buying them.

My next plan is to run a open downpipe to emlaimate the possibilities of the exhaust being all gunk up.

But, for now I have to break in my motor first.
And let you known further results when I try to diagnoses it some more.
 
Update:

Didn't really get much time to drive the talon around. Putted almost 60 miles on it so far. Was having trouble with the idle, car being stuck in open loop mode, car keep stalling out on me. But, it's all fix for now.

So far:
-No oil in Intercooler piping
-Turbo have almost no shaft play
-Learn that the smoke color is more of a blue smoke than a white.
-Coolant level went down a little, but might be just because it was still "bleeding" itself, haha.
-Oil level still the same(still got check out it)
-The oil light on the stock cluster is not turning on any more now since I set my idle higher( ~900rpm). It was previously idling around 700-750 rpm, not sure exactly before.


Currently:
-Talon still smoking after a good %50 throttle pull
-Not building boost(builds about 2psi reving up to 5000rpm and close to %50 throttle all the way up to 5000rpm) Maybe that's normal?
-No boost leak or vacuum leak
-Tested for boost leak with an air compressor hook up to the turbo (20psi of air) and vacuum leak tested by spraying break cleaner at vacuum sources I know of.
- Wastegate actuator is still moving if compressed by air through the vacuum port/hole


Plan:
-To drive the car more and hope that the smoke will clear up and burn all the left over oil in the exhaust system and parts. ahah. It's a long shot, but worth it.

Any suggestion on why my car smokes blue and not boosting will be considered.

I do have a boost gauge and only reads 2psi at the most, haha.

Thanks.
 
If you think the turbo is the culprit.....
Confirm it. Take it for a short ride get it to smoke (under boost?) & bring back & pull intake & O2. The oil should be evident if it going thru there.

Yes, but i will be burning my gloves/hands if i attempt to that after driving the car.
 
Update: seems to me like I'm only smoking blue if I'm driving for about 10min through city and if boost, then it starts to smoke and never stop. Until I shut off the car and let it set for 5min and the smoke is gone another 5min then comes back.

Is that enough proof to get another new turbo this time?

Remember:
-No oil in intercooler piping
-No mixing of oil in coolant
-Engine oil is still new, so idk if it's mixing there
-Not boosting good (building about 5psi of boost at 6k rpm with to vaccum line source to waste gate actuator)
 
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