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1998 Eagle Talon street build monster

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transmission showed up today. here's a link to the video of the un-wrapping of the transmission.

 
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Just thought it was funny that you had written in the youtube title that it was July 3 and then at the start of the video you also said it was July 3. Regardless looks really nice. Props :thumb:
 
Just thought it was funny that you had written in the youtube title that it was July 3 and then at the start of the video you also said it was July 3. Regardless looks really nice. Props :thumb:
thanks for catching that. i had a long day at work and i wasn't thinking very straight. and thanks i just hope the setup holds together really well.
 
here's a few pictures i decided to take. i test fitted the valve cover and intake manifold on the new engine. found out a few of the cam tower studs are sticking out too far so i will have to go back and chase the threads and re install the studs. the intake manifold is going to go for re-anodizing in a few weeks; i hope it turns out good. ive also detailed a few more parts. cleaned up the water inlet pipe and the thermostat housing. going to have to by new heater hose pipe assembly as the one that came with the engine when i pulled it out of another car is too far rusted to be saved.

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here's some custom decals i had made. one for the intake manifold, another for the rear side windows and a spare valve cover decal.
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started gathering some of the turbo oil lines fuel lines and fittings for the build.

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just finished repairing some threads on the engine. had to remove the front cam tower cap and drill out the hole a little bit for a heli-coil, since the threads decided to pull out when i was torquing the cam tower studs. the engine has been a bit of a head ach lately. but i won't let it defeat me so easily. now deciding to either move the turbo oil drain flange and repair the pan from its previous location since it was installed already on the pan before i got it and found out that the a/c bracket is covering it. or, buying a new pan and drilling the holes myself (which will be a pain in the a** since the pan is siliconed to the custom crank scrapper and the scrapper is siliconed to the engine.... what a headach). or option three is i cut the a/c bracket and shim up the a/c pump about an inch and get a longer serpentine belt for it. oh the wonderful joys of engine building. as a time for those out there that buy a stock oil pan with a turbo drain flange installed on it from ci motorsports, the flange is no located in the spot they have it in their display picture. my advise is to buy a new pan and drill the location yourself.
 
over the past few weeks i have been pondering, searching, coming up with creative ways to fix the oil drain flange problem i have ran into, on my oil pan, and finally i have come up with an idea to try. i have ordered a turbo oil drain flange that has 1/2" npt threads tapped into it, a 90" elbow fitting with 1/2" npt on one end and 10an on the other, a few drain flange gaskets, and some other needed parts to finish this engine. the reason for the elbow fitting is to try to get the drain as low profile as possible without having to shim the A/C pump very much after cutting the pump bracket, if it still needs to be cut at all. If this works as planned, then all i need to do is cross reference a gates blue racing serpentine belt (if the A/C pump gets shimmed) that is approximately 1/2" to 1" longer, has 5 groves and the same width as the factory belt.
 
Ordered turbo headers for the new engine. sent my turbo out and wastegate to have headers made for proper fitment. also having a custom down pipe made while the headers are being made for a complete exhaust system fabrications.
 
got some of the fittings i needed to fix my turbo oil drain. assessed the oil pan and decided the drain is in the only spot i can put it without welding anything on and or replacing the pan. so, i cut the a/c bracket in the spot it needed to be cut and repainted the bracket. now just got to change out the current drain flange for the new flange and get an A/C pump from a junk yard for mock up purposes. only have about up to an inch of room to shim the A/C pump before the pump starts to interfere with the radiator and the frame rail.

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mock up of the modified bracket

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Got my new throttle body. the bore is 60mm, made out of cnc'd aluminum.

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small comparison of the stock throttle body bore to the new 60mm bore.

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another piece i got for the turbo oil feed line. its an in line oil pre filter from earl's. it helps to remove harmful debris and deposits from ever entering the turbo and destroying the turbo.

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Not to sh!t on your latest update but I would like to offer my opinion on the bracket you modified. It seems you have taken all of the strength from it by cutting its support out to make room for that drain. I suspect if you want to keep whatever is on that bracket from breaking off I would suggest to re-locate the drain. I understand if you disagree and will not argue.
 
Not to sh!t on your latest update but I would like to offer my opinion on the bracket you modified. It seems you have taken all of the strength from it by cutting its support out to make room for that drain. I suspect if you want to keep whatever is on that bracket from breaking off I would suggest to re-locate the drain. I understand if you disagree and will not argue.

thanks for the suggestion, but i have considered everything else and this is what i have chosen. i do know some of the strength is gone but i have been coming up with a way to strengthen it.
 
Installed the water pump inlet pipe today.

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here's some photos of the new turbo oil drain flange set up compared to the old one to show how much shorter the drain flange is, along with a few other angle shots.

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Looks like you can now get a new bracket instead of having the missing chunk

look closer at the first picture of the oil drain flange. the 90* short elbow still interferes with the bracket. follow the invisible patch of where the top of the bracket where it's been cut to the bottom. you will see the fitting still interferes.
 
Oh yup just barley dang that sucks

at first when i got the new fittings i thought i wouldn't need to cut the bracket but i was wrong as well. but with the bracket cut i have a plan drawn up to build a bracket to strengthen the A/C bracket after i mock up a junk A/C pump on it to make sure it works properly.
 
when i cut the bracket i knew i was going to have to strengthen it.
 
Just got another set of exhaust stainless steel stud kits to use for the intake manifold. Getting closer and closer.
 
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